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. 

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Beaver  Totem,  Deserted  Indian  Village,  Alaska 


I 


GOING    trip    includes    stopovers    at    Banff,     Lake 
Louise   and   Glacier,  in  the  Canadian  Rockies,  as 
well  as  sightseeing  in  Vancouver,  Victoria  and   Seattle. 


The  trip  from  Vancouver  to  Skagway,  Alaska,  will  be  made  on 
the  palatial  Steamers  of  the  Canadian-Alaska  Lines,  taking  the 
inside  route  which  winds  itself  around  through  hundreds  of 
beautiful  islands  alongside  shore  lines  of  immense  virgin  forests, 
precipitous  cliffs,  towering  mountains,  tremendous  glaciers  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  oftentimes  passing  through  floating 
icebergs,  which  have  broken  off  from  the  glacier  along  the 
shore,  and  fell  crashing  into  the  ocean. 

The  trip  by  rail  from  Skagway  to  White  Horse  is  made  over  the  famous  White  Pass 
and  Yukon  Route,  from  there  on  by  boat  down  the  Yukon  River  to  Dawson  with  a 
visit  to  the  Klondike  Gold  Fields,  returning  to  Skagway  and  Vancouver  over  the 
same  route.  The  Homeward  trip  from  Seattle  includes  Ml.  Ranier  Nat'l  Park.  Port- 
land and  Columbia  Highway  and  five  days  in  Glacier  Nat'l  Park.  ( For  those  who  desire, 
the  Yellowstone  trip  may  be  substituted  for  Glacier  Nat'l  Park  for  the  same  price). 
The  opening  of  the  new  railroad  operating  between  Anchorage  and  Fairbanks 
makes  possible  a  still  more  delightful  tour  of  Alaska  with  the  usual  comforts  of  the 
older  route.  Proceeding  from  Seattle  over  what  is  known  as  the  Western  route  to 
Seward,  the  trip  from  Seward  to  Anchorage  may  be  made  direct  by  rail  or  by  water 
via  Cook  Inlet.  From  Anchorage  to  Fairbanks  over  the  recently  completed  rail- 
road passing  near  the  entrance  of  Mt.  McKinley  National  Park.  Mt.  McKinley 
National  Park  offers  to  the  tourist  scenery  of  unusual  picturesque  value  and  in 
this  vicinity  the  hunter  of  big  game  will  find  the  forests  abounding  with  a  splendid 
variety.  It  is  a  fisherman's  paradise  as  the  streams  and  lakes  abound  in  game  fish. 

16  to  90  days  — $400.00  up  — All  Expenses  included 

INDEPENDENT  OR  CONDUCTED  TOURS  ANYWHERE  — ANY  TIME 

THE  T  &  S  TOURS  COMPANY 

"TRAVEL  ARCHITECTS " 

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103  W.  Jackson  Boulevard,   CHICAGO,   ILLINOIS 

Telephone  Harrison  3559-3566-3567 

150  Fifth  Ave.,  NEW  YORK  CITY 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE 

TO 

ALASKA 

AND 

YUKON 


FOR 

TOURISTS,  INVESTORS,  HOMESEEKERS 
AND  SPORTSMEN 


WITH  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 
Price  $2.50 


RAND  M9NALLY  &  COMPANY 
NEW  YORK  CHICAGO 

Copyright,  1922,  by 
RAND  MCNALLY  &  COMPANY 

MADE   IN  U.   8.  A. 


1? 


NOTE 

In  the  compilation  of  this  guide,  the  editor 
has  been  ably  assisted  by 

MR.  STEPHEN  R.  L.  FOSTER 

During  fifteen  years  "inside,"  Mr.  Foster  has 
explored,  trapped,  and  kodaked  widely.  He  has 
served  as  game  and  fur  warden  under  the 
Department  of  the  Interior,  assisted  materially 
in  the  location  and  construction  of  military 
telegraph  lines,  and  acted  as  guide  to  important 
scientific  expeditions;  thereby  acquiring  an 
unusual  intimacy  with  the  various  towns,  lines 
of  travel  by  railroads,  over  trails  and  on  the 
great  rivers. 

The  beautiful  illustrations  and  text  extracts 
from  the  copyright  report  of  the  Harriman 
Alaska  Expedition — "Alaska" — are  used  by 
permission  of  Mrs.  Edward  H.  Harriman  to 
whom  we  extend  our  grateful  acknowledgment. 

We  are  also  indebted  to  the  Passenger  Depart- 
ment of  the  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  and  to 
Mr.  J.  L.  McPherson,  manager,  Alaska  Bureau, 
Seattle  Chamber  of  Commerce,  for  their  cordial 
co-operation  and  assistance. 

Statistics  covering  products,  commerce,  etc., 
are  from  latest  official  reports  of  U.  S.  Gov- 
ernment, territorial,  commercial,  and  publicity 
bureaus. 


RAND   M9NALLY   GUIDE 

TO 

ALASKA 


AND 


YUKON 


CONTENTS 


Principal  Population  Centers  .  .  viii 

Hours  of  Daylight,  etc x 

Alaska  Localisms : . xii 

Geography I 

History 6 

Newspapers  and  Publications. . .  18 

Banks 18 

Telegraph ,  Telephone  and  Radio 

Service ' 20 

Commerce 21 

Products 22 

Commercial  Bodies 22 

Resources 23 

Advice  to  Homesteaders 43 

Fur  Seals 46 

Fisheries 46 

Mining  Laws  and  Regulations.  51 

Mineral  Production 51 

Location  of  Principal  Mining 

Centers 60 

Forests 65 

Reindeer m 68 

Game  Regulations 71 

Wild  Game  Animals 75 

Game  in  Mount  McKinley  v 

Region 77 

'McKinley  National  Park 81 

Wild  Game  Birds..  .  82 


Wild  Flowers 83 

The  Alaska  Dog  Team 84 

Suggestions  for  Sportsmen 90 

Roadhouses 96 

Public  Schools 97 

Puget  Sound  to  Point  Barrow . .  98 
Copper  River  &  Northwestern 

Ry 118 

Richardson  Highway 118 

U.  S.  Government  Railroad. .  .  .123 

Bedarkas 125 

,Katmai  National  Monument. .  .  127 

The  Seal  Islands 130 

The  Seals 131 

ThevKashima 134 

The  Midnight  Sun 140 

Eskimo  Clothing 140 

Skagway  to  St.  Michael 143 

Down  the  Yukon 145 

Transportation 161 

Baggage 164 

Local  Boat  Service 165 

Distances  from  Seattle 167 

Railroad  Routes  —  Mileage  ...  .167 

River  Routes  —  Mileage 171 

Mileage  from  Dawson 172 

Mileage,  Principal  Summer  and 

Winter  Roads  and  Trails.  ...  1/3 


481589 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


PRINCIPAL  POPULATION  CENTERS  OF  ALASKA 
1920  CENSUS 


Pop. 
Afognak*  +  f  ................   308 

Akiatosoak  If  ................    106 

Akutan  +  tp  ................      66 

Amalga-j-f  P  ................ 

(100)  Anchorage*  +  tJ£XA..  .1856 
Andreaf  sky  +  fRp  ........... 

Angoon^[  ...................    114 

AniakRp  ................... 

Anvik  +  f£Rp  ...............    140 

Baranoff  p  .................. 

Barrow*  H-fR  .............  ...   322 

Bayview*  ...................   342 

Belhofski^f  .................    129 

Berry  Rp  ................... 

Bethel*+fR  ................   221 


Candle*R  ..................     91 

Chatanika*R  ............... 

Chatham  +  fp  ............... 

Chichagof  *  +  f  ...............    172 

(100)  Chickaloonfp  .......... 

Chicken  +  fRp  .............. 

Chignik*  +  f£  ...............      85 

ChisanafRp  ................    148 

(2)  Chitina*}  ...............    171 

Chivokok^f  .................    119 

Chogiung^f  .................    182 

Chomly*  +  t  ................. 

Circle*  +  f:f£XR  .............     96 

Cleary*fR.  ,  ................. 

Copper  Center*  +  fR  .........      71 

N.  (2)  Cordova  *  +  tt£X  A.  .  .   955 
Council*fR  .................    109 

Craig*  +  f  ...................    212 

Dan  Creek  Rp  .............. 

Deadwood*fR  ............... 

Deering  Rp  .................      73 

Dempsey  +  fRp  .............. 

Dillingham  -+-  fRp 

Dolomi  +  fp 

Dome  Rp  ................... 

N.  Douglas*  +tt£  .........  .  .   919 

Doyhof  p  ................... 

Eagle*  +  tt£XR  .............     98 

Eeklf  .......................    119 

Elimlf  ......................    162 

Ellamar*t£  .................    106 

(100)  Eska  p  ................ 

(2)  EyakH  .................   320 

N.  (  i  oo)  Fairbanks*  +  ft£  X  ARi  155 
Flat*  +  fR  ...................    158 

Fortuna  Ledge*  +R  .......... 

Fort  Gibbon^  +  f£  ...........    181 


36 


Pop. 

Fort  Li3cum*  +  f£X 153 

Fort  St.  Michael  If 126 

Fort  Wm.  H.  SewardHf£ 186 

Fort  Yukon*  +  tJ£R 319 

(100)  Fox  Rp 

Franklin*  +  tR-  .  .' 

Funter  p 

Golovin  *  R 

Granite  Mine  +  fp 

Gulkana  +  fRp 

Gypsum  +  fp*. 

N.  Haines*  +  tt£X 314 

Hawk  Inlet +  fp 

Haycock*Rp 1 14 

Hollis  +  fp 

Holy  Cross*  +  Jt£XR 

Hoonah*  +  f 402 

Hope*+f£R 

Hot  Sprmgs*  +  f£R 29 

Hydaburg*  +  | 34^ 

Hyder* 237 

N.  Iditarod XRp 50 

IglooH 115 

Iliamna-f-t£p 66 

Jack  Wade  +  fRp 

N.Jtmeau*  +  tt£X  A 3058 

Kake* 387 

Kantishna  Rp 

Kasaan  +  fp 126 

Katalla*£X 84 

Kenai  +  f£p 332 

(2)  Kennecott*f£ A 494 

N.  Ketchikan*  +  ft£X  A 2458 

Kiana  Rp 

Killisnoo  +  fp 256 

Kinak^f 192 

King  Covefp   

Klawock*  +  f 

KlukwanH-f 167 

Kodiak*  +  f£ 374 

Kokrines  +  f£Rp 

Kotzebue*  +  fR 230 

Koyukuk^H-t£ 124 

Lake  Bay  +  fp ' 

Latouche*  +  f£ : 505 

Little  Diomede  Isllf 101 

Livengood*JXR 131 

Long  +  fRp 

Loring  +  fp 

Matanuska*+ 

(2)  McCarthy*£ 127 

McGrath  +  fRp 90 

McKinley  Rp 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     TX 


PRINCIPAL  POPULATION  CENTERS  OF  ALASKA 
1920  CENSUS— Continued 


Pop. 


574 


Meehan  Rp 
Metlakatla*  +  f 
Mile  Seven*  ........  . 

Miller  House  +  fRp  .......... 

Moose  Creek  -f  If  ............ 

Mountain  |f  ..................    136 

Mumtrak^f  ..................    138 

Naknek+fRp  ..............    1  1  1 

Napakiakamuite^I  .....  .......    173 

Nation  Rp  .............  ..... 

(100)  Nenana*  +  ft£XR  ......   634 

Nenana^f  ..................    172 

Nizina+Rp  ................. 

Noatak^f  ...................    164 

Nolan  H-fRp  ................ 

N.  Nome*  +  ti£XR  .........   852 

Noorvik^f  ...................   281 

Nulato*  +  tt£R  .............   258 

Nunatschuagamiutlf  .........    134 

Nunivak  Island  If  ............    189 

NushagakfRp  ...............      16 

Ophir*  +  fR  .................      22 

(100)  Palmer  p  .............. 

N.  Petersburg*  +  fix  A  ......    879 

Pilot  Station^  ...............    145 

Point  Astley  p  .............. 

Poorman-htRp  .............. 

Port  Walter*fp  ............. 

Quigillingok^f  ...............    104 

Quinhagak  +  fRp  ............    193 

Rampart*  +  ft£R  ............    121 

Richardson  +  fRp  ........... 

Ruby*  +  tt£XR  .............    128 

Saint  George  If  ...............    138 

Saint  Michael*  +  tt£  XR  .....   371 

Saint  Paul  |f  .................   212 

Saint  Timothyslf  ............    101 

Salchaket  +  fRp  .............  " 

Sanak  p  .................... 

Sand  Ppint*  +  fX  ............     60 

Sanitarium  p  ................     23 

Saxman|f  ...................    103 

Selawik^f  ....................   274 

Seldovia*  +  t£  ...............   258 

N.  (100)  Seward*  +  ft£X  A  ..   652 


Pop. 

Shageluklf+f£ 130 

Shakan*-ht 

Shismaref  If 131 

Shungnak-j-fRp 95 

(2)  Shushanna  Jet  If 127 

Sitka*  +  tt£X 1175 

N.  (130)  Skagway*  +  ft£X  A..  494 

Snettisham  p 

Solomon*+R 

Steel  Creek  +  fRp 

Stevens^f 103 

(2)  Strelnaftp 

Sulzer  +  fXp 

Sumdum  +  fp 

Susitna*  +  fR 48 

Taku  Harbor  Rp 

(100)  Talkeetna  p 70 

Tanana  Crossinglf 101 

N  Tanana* +  tt£R 213 

Tatitlekf 187 

Taylor  Rp 

Teller*  +  fR 

Tenakee*  +  f 174 

Thane*£XA 421 

Tigara  +  fRp 141 

Tofty  *R 

Tokeen*  +  f 

TokotnaRp 

Tolovana  +  f£Rp 

Tread  well* +  ft£X  A 325 

Tyee  +  tp 

Unalaklett*  +  fR 285 

Unalaska*  +  f 299 

Unga*  +  fX 313 

Uyak*+f£ 

N.  Valdez*  +  ft£X  A 466 

Wainwright  Rp 99 

Wales  Rp 136 

(100)  Wasilla*t 

White  Mountainlf 198 

Windham  +  fp 

Woodchopper  Rp 

Wood  Island  U 104 

N.  Wrangell*  +  ft£X  A 821 

Yakutat*  +  f£ 165 


SYMBOLS:  N  Incorporated  town,  p  Postoffice.  1f  Not  a  postoffice. 
*  Money  order  postoffice.  +  Postal  telegraph.  f  Western  Union 
Telegraph.  J  American  Ry.  Express.  £  Steamboat  landings.  X  Inter- 
national money  order  office.  A  Postal  savings.  R  Mail  restricted 
during  winter  months.  Figures  in  parentheses  preceding  names  of 
towns  indicate  the  railroad  on  which  located:  (2)  Copper  River  & 
Northwestern  Ry.;  (100)  U.  S.  Government  R.  R, 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


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xii     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

ALASKA  LOCALISMS 

Bedrock.  Generally  this  means  the  solid  rock  of  the  earth's 
bed.  In  the  "North"  it  means  no  pay  until  "cleanup." 

Below.  Used  by  the  residents  of  the  Alaska  coast  towns  to 
indicate  they  are  going  to  Seattle  or  Vancouver. 

Cache.  Locally  pronounced  cash.  In  Alaska  structures  are 
built  in  trees  and  on  posts  far  enough  above  ground  to  protect 
the  contents  from  storms,  dogs,  bears,  and  other  wild  animals, 
and  out  of  reach  of  fires.  These  are  "caches,"  places  of  safety. 
Iiveveryday  affairs  the  word  is  in  frequent  use  as  thus :  ' '  Cache 
this"  (take  care  of  this),  and  the  place  of  safety  may  be  a  man's 
pocket  or  the  kitchen  cupboard. 

Chechacko.  A  new  arrival  in  Alaska,  previously  termed  a  ten- 
derfoot. The  word  is  from  the  Chinook  language  and  it  is  freely 
applied  to  everything  shipped  into,  and  not  raised  in,  Alaska. 

Chinook  wind.     Warm  wind  from  the  south. 

Cleanup.  The  final  process  in  placer  mining;  the  cleaning 
up  of  the  sluice  boxes,  removing  the  gold,  drying  and  removing 
the  black  sand  by  magnet. 

Dust.  Small  grains  of  gold.  In  mining  camps  where  gold 
dust  is  used  as  a  medium  of  exchange,  when  purchasing  an 
article  the  question  is  asked,  "Will  you  pay  in  dust  or  in 
chechacko  money?"  This  latter  means  gold,  silver,  and 
paper  money  coming  from  the  States.  At  the  store  you  will 
hear,  "Are  these  'chechacko'  spuds  or  'sourdough'?" 

Interior.  Used  by  Alaskans  to  mean  north  of  the  Alaska 
range  of  mountains. 

Limit.  A  local  expression  which  newcomers  should  know 
the  meaning  of.  It  is  used  in  giving  directions  for  travel  or 
designating  the  locality  of  a  place.  Looking  down  a  stream, 
the  right-hand  side  is  the  "right  limit";  the  left-hand  side  the 
"left  limit"  of  the  stream. 

Using  the  form  "fork"  when  facing  up  a  stream,  all  streams 
coming  into  it  on  the  left  are  called  ' '  left  forks ' ' ;  those  coming 
in  on  the  right  are  "right  forks." 

Mucklucks.     Water  boots  made  by  the  Eskimos. 

Mush.  This  is  the  "sourdough"  word  for  walk.  They 
never  use  the  term  "walk."  "I  mushed"  means  "I  walked." 
When  driving  dogs,  ' '  mush  on ' '  means  start ;  * '  mush ' '  means  go. 

Niggerheads.  Grass  clumps  growing  as  tall  as  three  feet 
and  located  from  one  to  three  feet  apart. 

"North"  The.  Means  north  of  the  Alaska  range  of  mountains. 

Outside.    This  word,  as  used,  means  the  States.     In  common 
language  one  hears  this  question,  "Are  you  going  'outside,'  ' 
or  "Do  you  intend  remaining  in  the  'interior'?" 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON   xm 


Overflow.     Water  flowing-over  the  top  of  ice. 

Parkay.  Is  used  in  the  tferth  in  place  of  an  overcoat.  A 
slip-on  having  no  opening  front  or  back  except  at  neck  for 
putting  on  over  head.  It  has  a  hood  with  only  a  face  opening 
sewed  on  to  the  neck  opening.  The  openings  at  face  and 
arms  have  light  fur  trimmings  and  draw  strings  to  close  up  as 
weather  demands.  They  are  made  of  various  materials  but 
those  most  easily  obtained  are  made  of  denim  or  duck. 

Placer.  A  mineral  deposit,  usually  gold,  not  a  vein;  the 
name  derived  from  the  Spanish  word  meaning  pleasure. 

Quartz.     Crystal  rock. 

Sluice  box.  A  trough  used  in  separating  gold  from  the  dirt 
and  gravel  in  which  it  is  found.  This  is  accomplished  by 
setting  troughs  on  a  grade  (determined  by  the  kind  of  gold) 
and  turning  on  a  flow  of-  water  which  carries  off  the  sand,  etc., 
and  leaves  the  gold. 

Siwashing.  Camping  without  shelter  of  any  kind  except  what 
can  be  constructed  of  brush,  small  trees,  etc.,  or  when  lying 
beside  a  camp  fire,  unprotected  by  the  weather. 

Sourdough.  Any  one  who  has  lived  in  Alaska  a  long  time 
and  who  has  seen  the  ice  go  out  of  the  Yukon.  Presumably 
derived  from  the  dough  used  by  the  pioneers  in  making  bread. 
It  is  sometimes  used  in  reference  to  things  grown,  or  which 
were  originated,  in  the  territory. 

Tundra.  Open  timberless  country  covered  with  moss  and 
niggerheads. 


White  Pass  &  Yukon  R.  R.  Near  Summit  of  White  Pass,  Alaska 


The  half-tone  print  of  map  hereon  of  Fairbanks,  Alaska  and  vicinity  is  from  a 
photostat  enlargement  of  the  region  shown  in  the  map  on  page  1 20  of  this  guide- 

PHOTOSTAT  PRINTS 

ENLARGED  OR  REDUCED  REPRODUCTIONS 
may  be  had  of  any  of  our  standard 

Copyright  Maps 

OF 

The  World,  Foreign  Countries 

AND  THE 

United  States 

OR  ANY  PORTIONS  OF  SAME 

We  do  not  grant  permission  to  anyone  to  reproduce  our  maps. 
"The  Law  Prohibits  copying  or  reproduction  by  any  process, 
for  personal  use  or  resale." 


CHICAGO 
536  S.  Clark  St. 


NEW  YORK 
42  E.  22d  Street 


You  Haven't  Seen  America 
Till  You  See  Alaska! 

'The    U.  S.  Government  Railroad  taps  the   Center  of  this  Northern 
Wonderland,  and  Trips  can  be  made  all  the  Year  'round. 


'"THIS  new  railroad  is  located  through 
•••  the  heart  of  the  Territory;  extends 
467  miles  from  Seward,  a  port  free  from 
ice  and  open  the  year  round  to  the  navi- 
gable waters  of  the  interior  at  Nenana 
and  Fairbanks;  with  branch  lines  to 
Matanuska  coal  fields  and  through  the 
Tanana  Valley  mining  district  around 
Fairbanks.  Total  mileage  in  operation, 
540.  Certain  sections  of  railroad,  while 
passable  will  still  be  under  construction 
during  1922. 

Trains  run  twice  weekly  in  each  direc- 
tion, leaving  Seward  on  Mondays  and 
Thursdays;  returning  leave  Fairbanks 
on  Sundays  and  Wednesdays.  Buffet 
observation  cars,  serving  meals  en  route, 
are  carried  on  trains  south  of  Nenana. 

The  scenery  throughout  the  line,  par- 
ticularly on  the  Seward  section  and  cross- 
ing the  Continental  Divide,  is  probably 
superior  to  any  railroad  scenery  on  the 
North  American  Continent.  The  fol- 
lowing are  among  the  points  of  interest 
to  tourists: 

Seward  on  beautiful  Resurrection  Bay, 
surrounded  by  picturesque  mountains, 
forests,  and  trout  streams. 

Spencer  Glacier  with  its  yari-colored 
ice  masses  pushing  down  within  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  railroad. 

Anchorage — at  the  head  of  Cook's 
Inlet — the  railroad  headquarters  and  out- 
fitting point  for  many  trips  of  interest. 

Government-operated  coal  mines  at 
Eska  and  Chickaloon  in  the  Matanuska 
coal  fields. 

Mount  McKinley,  monarch  of  North 
American  mountains,  tossing  its  snowy 
crest  four  miles  in  the  air,  visible  for 
300  miles  on  the  railroad.  Worth  the 
trip  from  Seattle  to  see. 

McKinley  National  Park,  3,000  square 
miles  of  untouched  nature,  the  center  of 
an  unsurpassed  wild  game  country, 
reached  from  McKinley  Park  Station 
(mile  347). 

For  further  information  write  or  wire: 
Alaskan  Engineering  Commission, 
Anchorage,  Alaska. 


TAKE  A  TRIP 
ON  THE  PEOPLE'S  RAILROAD 

THE  SCENIC  ROUTE 
AT  THE  TOP  OF  THE  WORLD  ! 


On  Taku  Arm  En  Route  to  Lake  Atlin 


GET  THE 

MOST 

OUT  OF 

YOUR  VISIT 

TO 

ALASKA 


Follow  the  advice  of 

Travelers  Who  Know 

Go  via  the  wonderful  "inside"  passage 

TO  SKAGUAY 

No    open   seas   to   cross 
THENCE    VIA 

White   Pass  and   Yukon   Route 

IN  THE  FOOTSTEPS  OF  THE  GOLD  SEEKERS  OF 
>98  AND  OF  THE  ALASKA  TOURISTS  OF  TODAY 

To  DAWSON  in  the  KLONDIKE 

Land  of  Gold,  Romance  and  nightless  days 
Sail  through  the  lakes  in  the  mountains  to 

ATLIN  and  the  GREAT  LLEWELLYN  GLACIER 
"The  Beauty  Spot  of  the  World" 

Every  mile  of  incomparable  scenic  grand- 
eur, historic  interest  and  unusual  scenes 
HIGH  CLASS  STEAMERS  AND  SERVICE  TO 

SKAGUAY- DAWSON     AND     ATLIN 

Modern  Parlor  Observation  cars  between  Skaguay   and 
White  Horse.     Opinions  and  other  interesting  literature,  and 
large  pocket  map  free  on  request.    Write  to  or  call  on 
J.  L.  Burnside,  Gen'l  Agt.,  512  Alaska  Bldg.,  Seattle,  Wash. 
E.  Farr,  Agt.,  607  Hastings  St.,      .      .      .      Vancouver,  B.  C. 
Herman  Weig,  Gen.  Pass.  Agt.,  1727  Conway  Bldg.,  Chicago 


RAND  MCNALLY  PI/IDE,  TO  .ALASKA  AND  -YUKON       i 


Juneau,  the  Capital  of  Alaska 

ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

POPULATION  of  Alaska,  iQ2ocensus,  55,000 — whites3o,oob, 
natives  25,000;  natives  include  "full"  and  "mixed"  blood. 

The  name  "Alaska"  is  derived  from  an  English  corruption 
of  the  native  word  Al-ay-ek-sa. 

Population  of  Yukon  Territory  is  about  9,000  —  and  the  pro- 
portion of  whites  and  natives  is  probably  the  same  as  in  Alaska. 

The  name  "Yukon"  is  Indian  for  river.  The  territory  was 
a  part  of  Northwest  Territory  until  1898,  when  it  was  given  a 
separate  organization,  and  the  name  Yukon  from  the  mighty 
river  bearing  the  same  name.  Area  207,076  square  miles. 

Alaska  in  its  greatest  extent  is  included  between  the  meridians 
of  130°  west  longitude  and  173°  west  longitude,  and  between  the 
parallels  of  51°  and  72°  north  latitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean;  on  the  west  by  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
Bering  Strait,  and  Bering  Sea;  on  the  south  and  southwest  by 
the  Gulf  of  Alaska  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  on  the  east  by 
the  Yukon  Territory  and  British  Columbia. 

Note:  The  region  covered  by  this  guide  includes  all  of  Alaska,  a 
small  section  of  the  northwestern  corner  of  British  Columbia,  and  the 
Yukon  Territory  adjacent  to  the  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route.  The  topog- 
raphy, climatic  variations,  treasures  of  the  earth,  wild  game,  scenic 
wonders,  etc.,  are  of  the  same  character  over  the  entire  region. 


RAND  MCN~ALhY:GUIt?E  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


The  longitude  of  the  western  terminal  of  the  Aleutian  Islands 
is  almost  identical  with  that  of  the  New  Hebrides  Islands,  and 
is  the  same  as  New  Zealand.  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  the  most 
westerly  point  of  the  mainland,  is  nearly  as  far  west  as  the 
Sanaoan  Islands. 

Thus,  a  person  traveling  from  New  York  to  Attu  Island,  the 
westernmost  of  the  Aleutian  chain,  on  reaching  San  Francisco, 
will  have  accomplished  less  than  half  the  journey  from  east  to 
west. 

Point  Barrow,  the  northernmost  point  of  the  land,  is  more 
than  300  miles  within  the  Arctic  circle.  The  extreme  southern 
point  is  in  about  the  same  latitude  as  Liverpool,  Amsterdam, 
Hague,  Glasgow,  and  Copenhagen.  From  north  to  south  the 


Klondike  River  from  Ogilvie  Bridge.      Dredge  "Canadian  No.  4"  in  Foreground 


Territory  extends  more  than  1,000  miles  of  latitude,  and  from 
east  to  west  over  2,500  miles  of  longitude. 

That  it  is  not  possible  to  determine  the  climate  of  a  country 
by  simply  noting  on  a  map  its  distance  north  of  the  equator  is 
demonstrated  by  the  widespread  error  regarding  Alaska. 
Alaska  is  not  an  Arctic  Ocean  province.  About  70  per  cent  of 
the  area  of  the  Territory  is  in  the  North  Temperate  Zone.  It 
has  its  mountain  areas  with  their  snow  fields  and  glaciers — with 
the  loftiest  summits  on  the  continent — and  broad  expanses  of 
mossy  tundra;  but  it  has  also  wide  areas  of  valley  lands  and 
timber  and  nearly  as  many  varieties  of  climate  as  can  be  found  in 
the  Eastern  and  Middle  States ;  controlled  largely  by  the  prin- 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON       3 

cipal  mountain  ranges  and  by  the  Japan  Current,  which  has  the 
same  effect  on  the  climate  of  Alaska  as  the  Gulf  Stream  has 
on  the  climate  of  Great  Britain,  Ireland,  and  Norway. 

When  people  in  the  States  find  on  looking  at  the  map  that  the 
bulk  of  Alaska  lies  north  of  Labrador,  they  conclude  that  the 
conditions  of  life  must  be  infinitely  worse  up  there  than  in 
Labrador. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  town  of  Fairbanks,  although  1,500 
miles  north  of  New  York,  and  300  miles  north  of  the  south- 
ern tip  of  Greenland  at  Cape  Farewell,  has  its  farms,  flowers, 
mines,  electric  lights,  and  all  the  other  comforts  of  modern 
life.  Here  the  total  annual  precipitation  is  about  twelve 
inches;  the  mean  summer  temperature  about  56°  F.;  annual, 
25°  F.  The  extremes  recorded  are  —  65°  F.  and  100°  F. 

Scenic  Alaska.  Norway  and  Sweden  are  the  Mecca  and 
Medina  of  the  European  tourists,  in  search  of  the  picturesque 
and  sublime,  and  the  latter  country  takes  its  annual  toll  of 
American  pilgrims  on  similar  sights  intent;  but  Alaska  dis- 
counts anything  which  these  countries  can  boast. 

Its  mountains  over-top  Mt.  Blanc,  the  Jungfrau  or  the 
Matterhorn;  its  glaciers  dwarf  the  Mer  de  Glace  and  its  puny 
associates;  while  the  fiords  of  the  Southeastern  Archipelago 
do  not  suffer  by  comparison  with  those  of  Norway,  whose 
grandeur  has  been  embalmed  in  its  sagas,  and 'chanted  by  the 
annual  procession  of  sightseers;  while  all  its  beauties  can  be 
seen  from  the  deck  of  ocean  or  river  steamer  without  the  dust 
and  discomfort  of  tedious  railroad  travel. 

Unlike  the  glaciers  of  Switzerland  and  the  Tyrol,  which 
debouch  on  inland  valleys,  and  give  the  observer  but  little 
evidence  of  their  tremendous  power  and  vitality,  the  energy 
of  which  must  be  left  entirely  to  the  imagination,  the  largest 
of  the  Alaska  glaciers,  like  those  in  Greenland  which  give 
birth  to  the  monsters  of  the  Atlantic,  terminate  on  the  ocean 
border  or  interior  rivers,  with  towering  fronts  from  200  to  300 
feet  in  height  and  miles  in  width;  fronts  which  are  daily  pushed 
forward  by  the  titanic  force  of  gravity,  only  to  be  undermined 
by  the  waves,  broken  down  into  avalanches  of  glittering  par- 
ticles or  huge  blocks  which  fall  with  a  roar  of  thunder  and 
throw  the  spray  100  feet  into  the  air. 

At  the  Childs  glacier  you  may  loll  at  ease  by  the  river  bank 
on  a  carpet  of  flowers,  while  the  glacier  splits  with  a  noise  like 
a  cannon  shot  or  the  staccato  reports  of  small  arms,  and  watch 
avalanche  after  avalanche  start  300  feet  above,  driving  the 
water  in  mighty  waves  up  the  gravel  slope  below  you  as  they 
take  the  final  plunge  and  float  away  in  the  narrow  river.  When 


4       RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Top — Dump  of  an  Underground  Drift  Mine 

Middle— Hydraulic  Lift  Used  in  Flat  Country.     Water  under  Pressure 
Bottom— Placer  Mining— the  Early  Method.     Shoveling  in  by  Hand 

Photos  by  Frank  II.  No  well 


RAND   MPNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON        5 

the  mist  has  drifted  by,  the  dead-white  face  of  the  ice  disap- 
pears. The  new  dress  glistens  with  the  brilliancy  of  diamonds, 
and  the  deeper  recesses  of  the  facade  gleam  blue  as  a  summer 
sky  unflecked  by  clouds. 

The  charm  of  the  glaciers  is  never  ending.  You  may  watch 
them  hour  by  hour,  and  yet  linger  for  some  grander  evidence 
of  their  power.  Beginning  as  mist,  kissed  by  the  sun  from  the 
southern  seas;  drifted  by  the  wind  to  the  Northland;  falling  as 
snow  on  the  mountain  tops;  welded  with  other  infinitesimal 
fragments  into  an  ice  unit;  crawling  inch  by  inch  a  few  feet 
annually;  carving  the  solid  earth  with  power  irresistible,  only 
at  last  to  be  torn  in  a  moment  of  agony  from  its  associates  of 
a  thousand,  or  many  thousand  years,  and  sent  drifting  south, 
the  plaything  of  the  sun  and  the  waves;  only  to  be  resolved 
into  its  primary  elements  —  is  there  not  tragedy  in  the  eternal 
cycle,  repeated  through  the  untold  eons  of  the  world's  life? 

There  are  sunsets  among  them  such  as  no  painter  could 
ever  put  on  canvas,  veritable  vortices  of  flame  as  though  the 
world  were  on  fire. 

Along  the  Alaska  Peninsula  the  tourist  may  witness  in  safety 
the  tremendous  pent-up  energy  of  the  internal  fires;  islands 
raised  from  the  bottom  of  the  ocean  one  year,  only  to  be  engulfed 
the  next,  as  at  Bogoslof. 

Extending  along  the  Alaska  Peninsula  is  a  chain  of  volca- 
noes; first  Makushin,  then  Pogromni,  Shishaldin,  Pavlof, 
Katmai,  Silvanoski,  Iliamna,  and  Redoubt,  rising  majestically 
from  8,000  to  10,000  feet  from  the  ocean  level,  with  many 
others  of  lesser  altitude. 

These  are  the  crowning  peaks  of  a  mountain  range  which, 
to  the  northeast,  and  north  of  Cook  Inlet,  culminates  in 
Mount  McKinley,  thence  extending  eastward  and  southeast- 
ward, in  Mounts  Wrangell,  St.  Elias,  and  Fairweather  and 
their  cold,  virginal  sisters,  grim  guardians  of  the  northern 
wonderland. 

These  stupendous  mountain  masses  which  at  St.  Elias  line 
the  coast  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles,  are  even  more  im- 
pressive than  the  loftiest  of  the  world's  famous  peaks,  either 
in  the  Himalayas  or  the  Andes;  for  while  these  rise  from 
lofty  interior  plateaus,  the  sweep  of  St.  Elias  is  from  ocean 
to  sky,  with  nothing  to  break  the  foreground. 

Surely  the  scenic  beauties  of  Alaska,  whether  they  be  of 
earth  or  water  or  of  sky,  are  varied  enough  to  bring  enthusiasm 
to  the  lips  of  the  most  blase  traveler,  ranging  as  they  do  from 
the  sylvan  groves  of  Sitka,  which  could  satisfy  even  the  most 
timid  of  lovers,  to  broad  plains  which  whisper  of  peaceful 


6       RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

homes  as  the  years  go  by;  or  from  placid  fiords,  where  days 
drift  idly  by,  to  exhibitions  of  the  titanic  and  implacable  forces 
of  nature  in  her  most  terrific  moods.  Vast  as  an  empire,  there 
can  be  no  such  thing  as  ennui  in  the  everchanging  panorama; 
distances  are  forgotten,  and  the  traveler  will  soon  begin  to 
understand  the  lure  of  the  North,  that  intangible  something 
which  makes  the  Alaskan,  cramped  amid  the  environment  of 
civilization,  repeat  to  himself,  day  by  day,  "I  want  to  go  back, 
and  I  will." — From  "Alaska,"  published  by  Alaska  Bureau, 
Seattle  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

The  first  explorations  of  the  Alaska  region  were  made  by  the 
Russians,  Shirikov  and  Bering,  in  1741.  Trappers  and  fur 
traders  entered  the  region,  and  in  1786  Gerassim  Pribilof,  a 
Russian  fur  hunter,  discovered  the  Pribilof  Islands,  the  breeding 
grounds  of  the  Alaska  seal.  In  1778  Captain  Cook  surveyed 
part  of  the  coast. 

In  1799  a  Russian  American  company  secured  the  monopoly 
of  the  fur  trade.  In  1821  Russia  attempted  to  exclude  for- 
eigners from  the  Bering  Sea  and  this  aroused  a  controversy 
which  resulted  in  treaties  by  Russia  with  England  and  the 
United  States,  fixing  the  boundaries  of  the  Russian  possessions 
in  America. 

In  March,  1867,  Alaska  was  purchased  from  Russia  for  the 
United  States  by  William  H.  Seward  for  $7,200,000,  the  transfer 
taking  place  on  the  i8th  of  October  of  the  same  year.  For  the 
first  ten  years  it  was  governed  by  the  War  Department. 

In  June,  1877,  the  War  Department  turned  control  over  to  the 
Treasury  Department,  and  the  Collector  of  Customs  was  chief 
executive.  This  arrangement  lasted  two  years,  when  the 
customs  officers,  being  unable  to  maintain  order,  control  of 
Alaska  was  transferred  to  the  Navy  Department,  which  was  in 
charge  until  the  passage  of  the  "Organic  Act"  in  1884. 

This  act,  which  provided  for  a  civil  form  of  government  to  be 
administered  by  a  governor,  has  since  continued, —  the  governor 
%  being  appointed  by  the  President  of  the  United  States  for  a 
period  of  four  years. 

In  1903  the  boundaries  with  Canada  were  definitely  fixed,  by 
an  agreement  specifying  that  the  sea  coast  of  Canada  be  ex- 
tended no  farther  north  than  50°  40',  and  in  1906  Alaska  was 
recognized  as  a  territory. 

By  the  act  of  May  7,  1906,  Alaska  was  given  power  to  elect 
a  Delegate  to  Congress,  and  the  act  of  August  24,  1912,  pro- 
vided for  a  Territorial  Legislature. 

The  total  area  of  the  Territory  is  590,884  square  miles,  or 
more  than  375,000,000  acres.  It  is  nine  times  the  size  of  the 
State  of  Washington,  which,  in  turn,  is  larger  than  all  the 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


New  England  States  combined.     Alaska  has  26,000  miles  of 
coast  line. 

The  main  mass  of  Alaska  is  nearly  rectangular  and  is  carved 
out  from  the  continent  by  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  Beaufort  Sea 
on  the  north  and  the  Gulf  of  Alaska  on  the  south.  An  extension 
to  southeast  is  furnished  by  the  so-called  panhandle  of  south- 
eastern Alaska,  and  to  the  southwest  by  the  Alaska  Peninsula 
and  the  Aleutian  Islands. 

The  Territory  has  three  peninsulas  of  considerable  size  — 
Alaska,  Kenai,  and  Seward. 

The  Alaska  Peninsula  forms  a  broken  barrier  between  Bering 
Sea  and  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  Kenai  Peninsula,  which  is  much  smaller  than  the  Alaska, 
and  lies  farther  east,  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  Cook 


Dawson,  Yukon  Territory 

Inlet  on  the  west  and  Prince  William  Sound  on  the  east,  with 
Kodiak  and  the  adjacent  islands  forming  an  extension  to  the 
southwest. 

The  Seward  Peninsula,  whose  extremity  marks  the  western- 
most point  of  the  continent,  extends  from  the  central  part  of 
Alaska,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Kotzebue  Sound  and 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  on  the  south  by  Norton  Sound  and 
Bering  Sea. 

The  greater  part  of  Alaska  is  taken  up  by  the  long  stretch 
to  the  west  of  the  Aleutian  Peninsula  and  Islands,  and  the 
stretch  to  the  south  of  the  narrow  southern  peninsula. 


M5NALLY_GUID^J^^LA^^  AND   YUKON 


RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA- AND   YUKON        9 


Region,  Alaska 


10       RAND  M9NALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA  AND   YUKON 


Sitka  Spruce 
These  Trees  Are  37  and  39  Inches  in  Diameter 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      11 

Along  the  coast  lies  the  Pacific  Mountain  System,  succeeded 
inland  by  a  great  plateau  region  marked  by  flat-topped  ridges 
and  rounded  hills  of  almost  uniform  height;  stream  erosions 
having  cut  down  the  original  level  with  the  exception  of  these 
heights. 

The  Pacific  Mountain  System  is  made  up  of  three  coastal 
ranges  and  an  inland  range.  In  this  latter  is  the  loftiest  peak 
in  America,  Mount  McKinley,  about  20,300  feet  high. 

In  the  Yukon  Basin  is  an  area  of  dead-level  flats.  Mountain 
masses  rise  out  of  the  basin,  except  toward  the  Yukon  delta 
on  the  west  coast,  where  the  plateau  is  generally  unbroken 
and  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  sea. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  System  is  divided  into  two  continuous 
ranges  of  inconsiderable  altitudes.  Beyond  the  Rockies  is  a 
plateau  succeeded  by  a  tundra-covered  coastal  plain  region 
sloping  down  to  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

The  Aleutian  Islands  are  the  crests  of  submerged  peaks, 
forming  part  of  the  Alaskan  Mountain  System.  Many  of  these 
peaks  are  volcanic,  but  all  practically  inactive. 

"In  considering  the  value  of  undeveloped  resources  of  Alaska 
we  must  in  part  be  governed  by  the  reports  of  scientific  investi- 
gators and  study  of  pioneer  development  under  like  conditions. 
It  has  been  only  during  the  last  few  years  that  even  the  most 
optimistic  would  concede  that  Alaska  would  be  a  land  of  a  per- 
manent and  prosperous  people,  simply  because,  as  a  people,  we 
were  not  used  to  such  climatic  conditions  as  obtain  throughout 
the  northland,  and  we  had  in  nowise  grasped  the  extent  of  her 
enormous  undeveloped,  universal  wealth  and  natural  resources. 

"It  was  only  after  a  study  of  what  had  been  accomplished 
under  like  conditions  of  climate  by  the  sturdy  races  of  Asia  and 
Europe  in  countries  that  can  in  nowise  compare  with  Alaska 
in  mineral  wealth  and  natural  resources,  that  we  realized  the 
immense  potentialities  of  our  great  northern  Territory. 

'"  A  few  comparisons  will  not,  I  think,  be  out  of  place.  Nor- 
way, Sweden,  and  Finland  in  the  same  latitude  as  Alaska  and 


Copyright  by  E,  H.  Harriman 

Sitka  Harbor 


12     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


White  Pass  &  Yukon  R.  R.  in  Sawtooth  Mountains 

with  very  similar  climatic  conditions  have  a  combined  area 
only  two-thirds  as  great.  They  support  a  population  of  10,- 
900,000,  as  against  approximately  55,000  (1920  census)  for 
Alaska.  These  lands  have  no  universal  wealth  other  than  iron 
—  no  coal,  not  near  the  area  of  arable  lands,  nor  the  wealth  of 
fisheries  with  which  Alaska  has  been  so  lavishly  endowed. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      is 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Foot  Path  Along  Indian  River,  Sitka 

"A  prominent  Alaskan  Swede,  who  has  been  over  a  great  por- 
tion of  the  northland,  said,  when  talking  of  the  possibilities  of 
Alaska:  'If  Norway  and  Sweden  were  one-half  as  rich  in  re- 
sources as  Alaska,  none  of  us  would  ever  have  left  there.' 

"Finland  with  an  area  of  less  than  one-fourth  the  size  of 
Alaska  had  a  population  in  1909  of  3,059,234. 

"The  total  value  of  her  products  in  that  year  was  $79,468,200, 
while  that  of  Alaska  in  1920  was  $75,306,986;  population  of 
55,000. 

"Finland  has  2,444  miles  of  railway  of  which  2,214  were 
built  and  operated  by  the  States.  The  gross  receipts  of  the 
government  railways  in  1912  were  $10,317,780. 

"Finland  and  Alaska  are  largely  included  between  the 
parallels  of  58°  and  70°  north  latitude. 

"Alaska  is  bordered  on  the  north  by  the  Arctic  Ocean  and 
Finland  nearly  touches  the  Arctic. 

"The  cultivated  area  in  Finland  comprised  about  7,000,000 
acres  in  1901.  In  1909  that  country  produced  19,759,488 
bushels  of  oats,  12,084,853  bushels  of  rye,  4,887,319  bushels  of 
barley,  19,226,108  bushels  of  potatoes,  7,766,203  bushels  of 
turnips,  and  2,895,087  pounds  of  flax  and  hemp. 

"The  output  of  butter  was  26, 585, 600  pounds.  The  number 
of  the  principal  domestic  animals  at  that  period  was:  cattle 
1,491,264,  sheep  904,447,  swine  221, 972, 'and  horses  327,817." 

— J.    L.    McPHERSON. 


14     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harrima 


Fort  Wrangell,  Alaska 


Special  local  features  divide  Alaska  into  six  natural  subdi- 
visions according  to  rainfall,  temperature,  and  latitude. 

First :  Southeastern  Alaska,  300  miles  long  by  1 2  5  miles  wide, 
and  the  coastal  region  as  far  west  as  Cook  Inlet,  are  charac- 
terized by  heavy  rainfall  and  moderate  temperature.  The 
average  temperature  for  the  three  winter  months  is  similar  to 
that  of  Boston  and  New  York.  This  region  is  heavily  timbered, 
possessing  many  available  garden  spots  and  rank  floral  vege- 
tation. In  a  narrow  belt  lying  between  the  ocean  and  the 
Chugach  Mountains,  it  extends  westerly  to  Cook  Inlet,  and  all 
its  ports  for  the  entire  distance  of  900  miles  are  open  the  year 
round  to  the  commerce  of  the  world. 

Second :  This  regio^  covering  the  southern  coast  of  the 
Alaska  Peninsula  has  a  moderate  rainfall  and  similar  temper- 
ature, but  it  is  almost  timberless,  the  forests  giving  place  to 
grazing  lands.  Like  the  first  region,  the  harbors  remain  open 
during  the  winter. 


Whitehorse,  Yukon,  in  June 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     is 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 


The  Alaskan  Salmonberry 


Painting  by  Walpole 


Third:  This  region  covers  the  entire  coastal  district  of 
Bering  Sea,  from  Bristol  Bay  to  Point  Barrow  and  also  the 
coast  bordering  on  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  is  characterized  by 
wide  areas  of  tundra  and  treeless  plains,  but  like  many  parts 
of  Arctic  Russia,  is  capable  of  supporting  great  herds  of  reindeer. 
In  its  2,000  miles  of  coast  line,  the  rainfall  and  temperature 
vary  greatly,  both  diminishing  as  we  go  northward. 

Along  the  shores  of  Bering  Sea,  the  mean  summer  tempera- 
ture varies  from  40°  F.  to  50°  F.,  and  the  mean  annual  temper- 
ature from  25°  F.  to  40°  F.  The  extremes  of  temperature 


16     RAND  MGNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

recorded  at  Nome  are  about  7  7°  F.  in  July  and  —  3  8°  F.  in  January. 
The  precipitation  is  about  15  inches  at  Nome,  14  inches  at 
St.  Michael,  and  36  inches  at  St.  Paul  Island. 

The  climate  of  the  northern  half  of  Bering  Sea  region  is  com- 
parable with  that  of  the  Province  of  Archangel,  in  northern 
Russia,  a  region  which  supports  some  agricultural  population. 
The  Arctic  provinces,  which  include  the  littoral  of  the  Polar 
Sea,  as  well  as  the  drainage  basins  of  the  tributary  rivers,  are 
similar  to  that  of  Bering  Sea  region,  but  colder. 

At  Point  Barrow,  the  northernmost  cape  of  Alaska,  the 
mean  annual  is  about  10°  F.  and  the  mean  annual  precipitation 
less  than  8  inches. 

The  highest  temperature  recorded  at  Point  Barrow  does  not 
exceed  65°  F.  and  the  lowest  — 55°  F. 

Fourth :  The  Copper  River  Valley,  protected  from  the  heavy 
rains  of  the  coast  by  the  lofty  Chugach  Mountains,  possesses  a 
comparatively  dry  climate  with  colder  winter  conditions,  and  is 
much  less  thinly  timbered  than  the  first  region,  lying  to  the  south. 


Dining  Room  of  a  Yukon  River  Steamboat 

Fifth:  The  Kenai-Susitna  region  offers  a  compromise  be- 
tween the  first  and  fourth  regions,  the  rainfall  being  moderate 
and  the  average  summer  temperature  about  54°  F.  Much  of 
this  region  is  heavily  timbered  and  contains  large  areas  of  good 
farming  land. 

Sixth:  This  covers  the  central  area,  containing  the  great 
valleys  of  the  Yukon  and  Tanana.  Protected  as  it  is  on  the 
south  by  the  lofty  Alaska  Range  with  its  extensive  snow  fields, 
it  is  well  watered,  although  the  average  precipitation  ranges 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      17 


from  only  13  to  20  inches,  while  the  thermometer  in  summer 
climbs  to  90°  F.,  or  over,  in, the  shade;  and  the  average  summer 
temperature  is  about  58°  F.,  or  somewhat  higher  than  any  of 


Cultivated  Area  at  Beaver  City,  Alaska,  on  the  Arctic  Circle 

the  five  regions,  while  the  average  of  the  low  summer  temper- 
ature is  only  slightly  less  than  in  Southern  Alaska. 

The  total  annual  precipitation  in  the  upper  Yukon  Basin 
varies  locally  from  10  to  16  inches,  at  Eagle  12  inches,  at 
Dawson  13  inches,  at  Fort  Gibbon,  the  mouth  of  the  Tanana, 
about  14  inches.  The  snowfall  in  this  district  is  from  3  to  5 
feet.  Some  precipitation  occurs  on  about  80  days  in  the  year. 

The  precipitation  on  the  lower  Yukon  and  Kuskokwim 
is  about  17  to  20  inches.  The  average  summer  temperatures 


Alaska  Indian  Birch  Bark  Canoe 


is     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


are  a  little  lower  than  at  Fairbanks ;  winter  temperature  the  same. 


NEWSPAPERS 

Anchorage — 

Anchorage  Times — D  and  W 
Alaska  R.  R.  Record— W 

Chitina — 

Chitina  Leader — W 

Cordova — 

Cordova  Times — D 
Alaska  Times — W 
Alaska  Churchman — M 

Douglas — 

Douglas  Island  News — W 

Fairbanks — 

Fairbanks  News-Miner — T.W. 

Hyder— 

Hyder  Alaska  Miner — W 

Juneau — 

Alaska  Daily  Empire — D 
Alaska  Capital— W 
The  Stroller's  Weekly 

Ketchikan — 
Chronicle— D 

McCarthy- 
McCarthy  News— W 
SYMBOLS:       D— Daily. 

M— Monthly. 


AND  PUBLICATIONS 

McGrath — 

Kusko  Times— B.W. 
Nenana — 

Nenana  News — D 
Nome — 

Nome  Nugget— T.  W. 
Petersburg — 

The  Report— W 
Seward — 

Seward  Gateway — D 
Skagway — 

Daily  Alaskan— T.W. 
Sitka— 

Vestovian — M 

Sitka  Sun— M 
Skagway — 
Daily  Alaskan— T.W. 
Valdez — 

Valdez  Miner — W 

Pathfinder— M 
Wrangell — 

Wrangell  Sentinel— W 
T.  W.— Tri-weekly.  W— Weekly. 

B.W.— Bi-weekly. 


I  Ketchikan 

I  Wrangell 

I  Petersburg 

i  Douglas 


i  Juneau 


TERRITORIAL  BANKS 

i  Juneau  i   Valdez  i  Iditarod 

1  Skaguay  i   Seward  i   Nome 

2  Cordova  2  Anchorage  i  Hyder 

NATIONAL  BANKS 

i  Seward  i  Fairbanks 


A  Salmon  Packing  Plant,  Where  the  Great  "Iron  Chink"  is  Operated 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        19 


P  H.I N  ( :  K  W t  LI  >L\M    SO \  TX ) ) 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 


Sketch  of  Port  Wells,  Alaska 


20     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

WASHINGTON-ALASKA  MILITARY  TELEGRAPH 
SYSTEM 

The  United  States  Signal  Corps  operates  all  telegraph  lines 
in  Alaska,  except  certain  private  wireless  plants  which  connect 
with  the  government  lines.  All  business  to  and  from  * '  outside ' ' 
is  handled  by  the  commercial  lines  at  Seattle. 

During  the  summer  months  communication  is  kept  up  with 
radio  stations  maintained  by  the  various  companies  engaged  in 
fisheries.  The  system  comprises  2,676  statute  miles  of  sub- 
marine cables  and  799  statute  miles  of  telegraph  lines. 

LIST   OF   STATIONS   IN   ALASKA 

Pop.  Pop. 

Beaver  DamH  +  fD •      Kotliktf£  O 83 

Birches  AD Kogukuk1f  +  t£D 124 

Brooks  O Loudin  D 64 

Chena1T+t£n 29     McCallumH  +  fn 

Circle*  +  tt£  O 96     McCarthylffD 

Copper  Center*  +  tD 71      McGrath  +  t  0 90 

Cordova*+tt£Ao* 955     MeloziD 

Craig* -f- f  O 212     Nenana*  +  ft£D 634 

Donnellv^f  +  tD Nome*+tt£  o 852 

Douglas* +tt£  A 919     Nulato*+f{£  o 258 

Fairbanks* +  tt£  OD 1155     PaxonD 

Fort  Egbert  0  D Petersburg* +  f£  A 879 

Fort  Gibbon H+f£  O  D 181     Richardson  +  f  D 

Fort  Liscum*+f£* 153     St.  Michael* -f-f|£  o 371 

Fort  Yukon*+ft£  O 319     SalchaD 

Gulkana+fn Seward*  +  fJ£ A 652 

Haines*  +  tJ£A 314     Sitka*  +  f£A 1175 

HoganD SkagwayA*+fJ£ 494 

Holy  Cross*+ft£  O TiekhellD 

Hot  Springs* +  :|:£D 24     TolovanaHH-t£D 

Iditarod  O   50     TonsinaH  +  fD 

Juneau*  +  tJ£A .3058     Valdez*  +  tt£AD 466 

Ketchikan*  +  tt£  A 2458     WortmansH  +  f  D 

Kokrines  +  t£D 80     Wrangell*  +  tt£A 821 

SYMBOLS:     H  Not  a  post  office.     *  Money    order    postoffice.      +  Postal 

telegraph,     f  Western  Union  Telegraph.     J  American    Ry.   Express. 

£  Steamb9at  landings.          D  Telegraph.          o  Radio.          A  Cable. 

•^  Telephone. 

TELEPHONE  SERVICE 

Telephone  connection  is  open  to  the  public  between  all  sta- 
tions on  the  U.  S.  Government  R.  R. 

Fairbanks  local  service  includes  all  creeks  in  the  district. 
There  is  'phone  service  between  Hot  Springs,  Rampart  and 

Tofty. 

NAVAL  COMMUNICATION  SERVICE 

There  are  at  present  nine  naval  radio  stations  in  Alaska, 
namely:  St.  Paul,  St.  George,  Dutch  Harbor,  Kodiak,  Seward, 
Cordova,  Sitka,  Juneau,  and  Ketchikan. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      21 

The  naval  communication  service  handles  commercial  traffic 
to  any  and  all  points  that  are  served  by  the  radio  stations. 
The  rates  have  been  made  the  same  for  both  the  cable  and 
radio.  This  uniformity  of  rates  makes  it  very  easy  to  route  the 
traffic  via  radio  in  case  of  a  cable  break  or  by  cable  in  case  of 
a  radio  breakdown. 

In  general  the  Alaska  stations  handle  mainly  commercial 
traffic  and  government  traffic  of  Class  B.  All  commercial 
traffic  is  domestic  count,  lo-word  minimum.  The  rates  for 
southeastern  Alaska,  such  as  Juneau,  Ketchikan,  and  Sitka, 
are  10  cents  a  word,  lo-word  minimum. 

For  Cordova  and  Seward  the  rate  is  15  cents  a  word,  lo-word 
minimum.  For  southwestern  Alaska,  such  as  Kodiak,  Dutch 
Harbor,  and  the  Pribilofs,  the  rate  is  19  cents  a  word,  ic-word 
minimum. 

At  present  all  traffic  for  points  east  of  the  13  8th  meridian 
is  routed  through  the  Astoria-Ketchikan  circuit.  This  is  the 
old  Marconi  spark  circuit.  All  traffic  to  points  west  of  this 
meridian  is  routed  via  the  Keyport-Cordova  arc  circuit. 

All  the  Alaska  stations  are  spark  stations  except  that  Cordova 
and  St.  Paul  have  both  arc  and  spark  installations. 

ALASKA  COMMERCE  SINCE  1867 

Minerals —  1867-1919  1920  1867-1920 

Imports $    486,466,906     $  38,418,473     $    524.885,379 

Exports 939,365,741         68,990,681       1,008,356,422 

Total $1,425,832,647     $107,409,154     $1,533,241,801 


Hydraulic  Operations 


22     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

PRODUCTS  OF  ALASKA 

Minerals,  1867-1920  —  Gold $319,664,993 

Copper 126,926,096 

Other 13,639,916 

$460,231,005 

Fish,  1867-1920 —  Salmon $410,703,353 

Other 44,700,039 

$455,403,392 

Furs,  1867-1920  —  Sealskins $60,195,226 

Other 30,325,820 

$90,521,046 

Woods,  curios,  reindeer,  etc $2,200,979 

Total $1,008,356,422 

COMMERCIAL  BODIES  IN  ALASKA 

Anchorage  Chamber  of  Commerce Anchorage 

Brooks  Commercial  Club Brooks 

Cordova  Chamber  of  Commerce Cordova 

Fairbanks  Commercial  Club Fairbanks 

Haines  Chamber  of  Commerce Haines 

Hyder  Commercial  Club Hyder 

Iditarod  Commercial  Club Iditarod 

Juneau  Commercial  Club Juneau 

Ketchikan  Commercial  Club Ketchikan 

McCarthy  Chamber  of  Commerce McCarthy 

Nenana  Commercial  Club Nenana 

Nome-Seward  Chamber  of  Commerce Nome 

Petersburg  Commercial  Club Petersburg 

Ruby  Commercial  Club Ruby 

Seward  Chamber  of  Commerce Seward 

Skagway  Commercial  Club Skagway 

Talkeetna  Commercial  Club Talkeetna 

Valdez  Chamber  of  Commerce Valdez 

Wrangell  Chamber  of  Commerce Wrangell 


Agriculture  at  Fairbanks,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    23 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman  Painting  by  Charles  R.  Knight 

Kodiak  Bear 

RESOURCES 

Agriculture  is  yearly  becoming  more  and  more  an  established 
industry.  Already  the  Matanuska  and  Tanana  districts  are 
furnishing  practically  all  the  vegetables  required  for  local  con- 
sumption. Forage  for  horses  and  cattle  is  being  grown,  and 
even  wheat,  which  it  was  at  one  time  thought  impossible  to 
mature,  is,  through  the  efforts  of  the  agricultural  experiment 
stations,  now  a  regular  crop.  Fairbanks  has  the  first  flour  mill 
to  be  built  in  Alaska,  and  it  will  be  only  a  few  years  before  that 
district  will  be  supplying  the  whole  of  the  interior  and  the  towns 
along  the  line  of  the  government  railroad  with  flour. 

The  average  yield  of  wheat  at  Fairbanks  is  19.6  bushels  to 
the  acre.  The  farmers  there  are  commencing  to  organize  for 
the  purpose  of  co-operation  in  buying  machinery  and  equipment. 

The  sugar-beet  industry  is  worthy  of  consideration  for  Alaska. 
The  Alaska  beets  contain  a  larger  percentage  of  sugar  than  do 
the  beets  of  the  States,  and  can  be  worked  during  the  winter 
months  without  refrigeration,  which  is  most  desirable. 

An  established  sugar-beet  factory  in  the  vicinity  of 
Anchorage  would  be  able  to  draw  on  the  Matanuska  Valley, 
the  whole  line  of  the  railroad  and  Cook  Inlet  for  the  needed 
supply. 

The  live  stock  industry  has  hardly  progressed  beyond  the 
demands  for  dairy  products,  but  eventually  beef  cattle  will  be 
grown  in  many  parts  of  the  Territory. 

The  growing  of  live  stock  should  be  encouraged  by  the  loan 
of  blooded  cattle  to  the  farmer  for  a  period  of  years  under 


24    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Mount  McKinley,  Alaska,— 20,30 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    25 


t  high— in  the  Middle  Distance 


26     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

regulations  to  insure  proper  care.  A  return  to  the  Government 
to  be  made  in  kind  for  issuance  to  other  stock  growers. 

At  Holy  Cross  mission  a  herd  of  twenty-five  dairy  cattle  is 
kept  and  fed  exclusively  on  swamp  grass  and  red  top  made  into 
hay  and  siloed. 

For  more  detailed  information,  those  interested  are  advised  to 
write  to  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C., 
for  the  latest  publications  relative  to  Alaska  investigations. 

Most  of  the  homesteads  are  located  in  the  Matanuska  and 
Sustina  valleys  along  the  line  of  the  government  railroad;  in 
the  Cook  Inlet  region  in  the  Tanana  Valley  in  the  interior,  and 
in  Chilkat  and  Eagle  river  valleys  of  Southeastern  Alaska. 


Main  Street  of  Juneau,  Alaska 

The  principal  crops  are  turnips,  potatoes,  and  other  root  crops. 
All  the  hardier  grains  mature  in  the  Tanana  Valley. 

Competent  authorities  estimate  that  approximately  100,000 
square  miles  of  valley  lands  with  their  adjacent  low  foothills 
are  available  as  arable  and  grazing  lands,  comprising  the  valleys 
of  the  Yukon,  Tanana,  Susitna,  Copper  River,  and  portions  of 
the  Kuskokwim,  with  less  areas  on  the  minor  streams;  as  well 
as  a  considerable  portion  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula,  and  the 
Alaska  Peninsula,  including  its  adjacent  islands. 

The  prospective  farmer  must  look  for  his  profits  to  a  diver- 
sified product,  which  shall  furnish  his  table  with  the  necessary 
things  of  life,  and  sell  the  remainder  to  near-by  purchasers. 
It  should  be  clearly  understood  that  for  the  present,  at  least, 
farming  must  partake  more  or  less  of  the  character  of  market 
gardening  around  the  mining  centers,  gradually  expanding  as 
these  industries  grow. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      27 

The  consensus  of  opinions  by  those  who  have  made  a  special 
study  of  the  subject  in  all  its  aspects,  not  only  in  theory,  but 
by  actual  experience  on  the  ground,  is  that  many  thousands  of 
Europe's  population  would  gain  by  change  of  residence,  especi- 
ally those  living  in  similar  latitudes  under  similar  conditions. 


> — Atlin  Inn  on  the  Farther  Shore 
Bottom— Lake  Atlin,    B.   C. 


28     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Dawson,  Yukon,   Public  School 


Grain  'Crops  and  Grasses.  That  oats,  barley,  wheat,  and 
rye  can  be  grown  successfully  has  been  demonstrated  at  the 
experimental  stations  in  the  Yukon-Tanana  valleys  and  also 
by  the  farmers  around  Fairbanks  and  in  the  Susitna  Valley, 
who  have  cut  barley  for  hay  giving  three  tons  to  the  acre. 
Much  time  has  been  devoted  to  the  study  and  growth  of  all 
kinds  of  grain  from  northern  countries  and  the  end  is  not  yet. 
In  the  rooms  of  the  bureau  may  be  seen  handsome  sheaves  of 
all  these  grains  and  their  cleaned  products,  6o-day  and  Finnish 
oats,  as  well  as  hull-less  and  beardless  barley.  There  are  also 
handsome  samples  of  wheat,  but  this  is  a  more  tender  grain. 
It  has  been  demonstrated  by  the  farmers  around  Fairbanks 
in  the  Tanana  Valley  that  hard  wheat  can  be  matured,  and 
wheat  raising  by  them  has  passed  the  experimental  stage. 
The  winter-sown  grain  does  well  if  covered  by  snow,  but  it  is 
liable  to  be  frost  killed  on  ground  swept  bare  by  the  wind. 

It  is  no  new  thing  to  grow  these  cereals  in  northern  countries 
as  they  mature  rapidly.  At  Uleaborg,  Finland,  in  the  same 
latitude  as  Fairbanks,  oats,  barley,  and  rye  are  staple  crops  and 
are  also  largely  grown  in  Northern  Russia,  requiring  only  from 
seventy  to  eighty  days  from  seed  to  maturity.  It  is  not  the 
intensity  of  the  winter  cold  which  governs  their  successful 
growth.  The  great  point  is  the  date  at  which  the  ground 
attains  a  sufficient  warmth  to  cause  the  seed  to  germinate 


RAND  M<?NALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        29 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Eskimo  Boy  and  Girl,  Port  Clarence,  Alaska 


30     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

(42°  for  wheat)  and  a  sufficient  time  thereafter  to  mature  it. 
Most  persons  overlook  that  long  winter  hours  involve  long 
hours  of  daylight  in  summer — for  all  parts  of  the  world  receive 
the  same  total  hours  of  daylight,  though  differently  distributed 
in  the  course  of  the  year.  The  rapid  growth  of  grain  applies 
also  to  grasses. 

Timothy  springs  up  wherever  imported  hay  has  been  fed  to 
stock  and  also  seems  to  be  richest  in  nitrogen  among  its  con- 
geners. It  grows  everywhere  but  is  said  to  rebel  against  annual 
cutting,  so  that  cropping  every  other  year  is  recommended. 


Currants  and  Raspberries  at  Skagway,  Alaska 


Persons  desiring  detailed  information  on  hay-making  in 
South  and  Southeastern  Alaska  should  consult  Bulletin  No.  3 — 
Alaska  Agricultural  Experiment  Stations,  entitled  "Haymaking 
at  Kenai  Experimental  Station,  1907,"  etc. 

Vegetable  Crops.  It  is  possible  to  grow  magnificent  vege- 
tables in  all  parts  of  Alaska  except  on  the  tundras  and  moun- 
tains. To  Alaskans  they  are  no  novelty  but  to  strangers 
unacquainted  with  the  country  they  are  a  constant  surprise. 
They  include  all  the  products  of  the  temperate  zone  in  America, 
and  the  bureau  has  in  its  exhibit  potatoes,  turnips,  beets,  ruta- 
bagas, sugar  beets,  carrots,  parsnips,  kohlrabi,  celery,  rhubarb, 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      31 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Alaska  Heather  in  Bed  of  Reindeer  Moss 


32     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Dead  Horse  Gulch  Near  Summit  of  White  Pass,  Alaska 


radishes,  onions,  cabbage,  cucumbers,  peas,  tomatoes,  and  in 
one  or  two  very  favored  spots  even  melons  have  ripened. 
The  samples  both  for  size  and  quality  will  compare  with  the 
markets  of  New  York. 

Twenty-seven  varieties  of  potatoes  were  cultivated  during 
the  season  of  1911,  of  which  three  were  planted  on  June  i, 
nine  on  June  9,  and  the  remainder  on  June  10.  They  matured 
between  September  n  and  22,  with  a  yield  at  a  rate  varying 
from  7,260  to  18,876  pounds  per  acre  on  the  experimental  plats. 
In  the  open  field  three  varieties  produced  five  tons  per  acre 
after  sorting  and  grading  on  second  year  unfertilized  ground. 

Cabbages  from  department  seed  made  heads  weighing  from 
eight  to  twelve  pounds.  Cauliflower  was  as  fine  as  grown  in 
any  country. 

Gratifying  results  have  been  obtained  from  experiments 
with  sugar  beets  at  Matanuska  where  tests  showed  beets  con- 
taining from  14.6  to  16.9  per  cent  sugar. 

Summing  up  the  question,  C.  C.  Georgeson,  the  best  of  all 
authorities,  says:  "All  these  vegetables  can  be  grown  and  are 
grown  as  far  up  as  the  Arctic  circle  and  beyond. 

"This  is  not  saying  that  they  can  be  grown  with  equal  success 
in  all  places  and  in  all  conditions,  for  on  this  point  the  eleva- 
tion, rainfall,  soil  and  local  conditions  as  to  climate  are  impor- 
tant factors.  Nor  do  I  say  that  there  is  not  now  and  then  a 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        33 

cold  summer,  in  which  only  the  hardiest  of  these  things  make 
satisfactory  growth.  But  under  normal  conditions  and  with 
good  culture  all  of  these  vegetables  are  grown  successfully 
even  beyond  the  Arctic  circle." 

So  much  interest  is  expressed  by  visitors  as  to  why  it  is  possi- 
ble to  grow  good  vegetables  so  far  north,  when  it  cannot  be 
done  on  the  Atlantic  shores  in  like  latitudes. 

Undoubtedly  the  first  factor  is  the  enormous  volume  of  cold 
water  brought  down  the  Atlantic  shores  by  the  streams  from 
Baffin's  Bay  and  the  coasts  of  Greenland  and  the  presence  of 
the  Japan  Current  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 


Cordova,  Alaska 

Except  for  these  factors,  all  other  conditions  are  equal  as 
far  as  latitude  or  distance  from  the  equator  is  concerned, 
as  this  affects  only  the  length  of  the  day.  The  local  factors 
are  the  depth  to  which  the  ground  is  frozen,  the  annual  pre- 
cipitation of  rain  and  snow,  the  number  of  days  on  which  the 
sun  shines,  and  the  summer  temperatures. 

These  have  a  greater  influence  on  vegetable  growth  than 
extreme  cold  in  winter,  as  for  instance,  in  the  wheat  fields 
of  Canada  the  mercury  may  go  to  50  degrees  below  zero  with- 
out detriment  to  the  yield. 

In  the  Tanana  Valley  the  ground  is  deeply  frozen;  the  day 
is  22  hours  long  at  mid-summer;  the  average  number  of  days 
without  rain  to  exceed  one-hundredth  of  an  inch  is  about  270, 
and  the  total  annual  precipitation  from  12  to  14  inches. 


34      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman  Painting  by  Walpole 

Alaska  Columbine 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      35 


Administration  Building,  Dawson,  Yukon  Territory 

But  as  the  ground  thaws  out  under  the  influence  of  the  long 
days  the  tender  roots  of  the  seedlings  follow  the  released  mois- 
ture and  are  perpetually  sub-irrigated.  The  frozen  subsoil 
takes  the  place  of  the  ordinary  underlying  rock  or  gravel  in 
more  southern  localities,  and  being  impermeable,  all  the  prod- 
ucts of  vegetable  decay  are  retained  in  the  surface  stratum, 
producing  a  soil  rich  in  "humus"  or  leaf  mold  and  eminently 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  plant  life.  This  is  suggested  as  a 
possible  explanation. 

Wild  Fruits.  Alaska  is  a  land  of  berries,  not  only  in  the 
profusion  of  fruit,  but  in  the  great  variety  of  species. 

Currants,  both  red  and  black,  abound  in  Southeastern 
Alaska,  and  in  lesser  degree  elsewhere,  and  both  are  remark- 
able for  the  size  of  the  fruit  and  the  length  of  the  bunches, 
rivaling,  if  not  excelling,  the  best  of  the  cultivated  forms. 

Strawberries,  of  good  size  and  excellent  flavor,  abound  in  and 
on  the  coast  belt  from  Yakutat  to  the  Copper  River  delta,  and 
have  been  crossed  with  cultivated  varieties,  producing  plants 
of  more  luxuriant  growth  than  either,  of  the  parent  forms  both 
as  to  foliage  and  fruit.  Some  hundred  varieties  of  these  hybrids 
are  under  cultivation  at  the  government  experimental  stations. 

Raspberries  are  characteristic  of  the  interior  regions,  espe- 
cially of  the  Yukon  and  Tanana  valleys. 

Blueberries  are  universally  distributed  and  fruit  in  profusion, 
the  berries  attaining  a  diameter  of  half  an  inch.  So  abundant 
are  they  that  two  ladies  near  Nome  put  up  119  gallons  in  one 
season. 


36        RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 


Rufous  Humming  Birds,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON   37 


Huckleberries  abound  through  the  Pacific  Coast  and  interior 
regions,  and  form  attractive  pasturage  for  bears,  both  black 
and  grizzlies. 

Cranberries,  both  high  and  low  bush,  are  characteristic  of 
the  interior  plateau  and  Seward  Peninsula. 

Salmon  berries  grow  luxuriantly  in  all  the  coast  regions 
bordering  on  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  immense  profusion  of  some  of  these  berries  in  some 
localities  suggests  an  opening  for  their  use  commercially  as 
canned  products  and  preserves,  especially  in  the  case  of  the  blue- 
berries, huckleberries,  and  currants,  which  for  size  and  flavor 
are  Unsurpassed  anywhere. 

Cultivated  Fruits.  Nearly  all  the  hardy  fruit  bushes  do 
remarkably  well  in  Southeastern  Alaska,  and  the  currant  and 
raspberry  also  do  well  all  over  the  interior.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  the  strawberry  in  a  more  limited  degree  as  to  localities. 

Gooseberries  do  well  in  the  Pacific  Coast  belt,  but  it  seems 
probable  that  blackberries,  dewberries,  loganberries,  and 
grapes  will  not  thrive  in  Alaska,  for  while  experimental  plants 
have  lived  for  several  years,  they  never  fruited. 

Experiments  with  apples,  plums,  and  cherries  have  not  been 
eminently  successful  up  to  this  time,  although  there  is  a  native 
crabapple  growing  extensively  in  some  sections,  especially  the 
Susitna  Valley.  The  Sitka  experimental  station  reports  a  small 
degree  of  success  with  apples  and  cherries,  but  none  with  plums. 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Baskets  Made  by  Eskimos,  Port  Clarence,  Alaska 


38        RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Sunset  on  Muir  Inlet,  Glacier  Bay,  Alaska 

CATTLE,   SHEEP,  AND   HORSES 

Cattle.  While  the  government  experimental  stations  at 
Sitka,  Kenai,  Copper  Center,  Rampart,  Tanana,  and  Fair- 
banks have  been  devoted  to  the  study  of  vegetable  life,  the  sta- 
tion on  Kodiak  Island  turned  its  attention  to  the  study  of  farm- 
ing stock,  particularly  cattle  and  sheep,  to  determine  the  types 
best  suited  to  the  climatic  conditions,  as  a  source  of  beef  as  well 
as  dairy  products.  That  stock  can  be  raised  from  the  Yukon 
Valley  southward  during  the  summer  is  well  known  to  all  old 
Alaskans  who  have  seen  herds  driven  over  the  trails  and  roads 
leading  to  the  interior,  living  on  the  native  fodder  and  reaching 
their  destination  in  good  condition.  Cows  for  dairy  purposes 
are  kept  near  all  the  principal  towns  and  at  many  of  the  road 
houses.  The  experimental  stations  are  not  simply  trying  to 
prove  this  fact  —  they  are  looking  for  stock  which  will  require  a 
minimum  of  winter  feeding,  and  in  this  they  have  succeeded  to 
a  marked  degree ;  so  that  we  may  look  forward  to  herds  ranging 
over  the  Alaska  Peninsula  and  its  adjacent  islands  as  well  as 
over  the  plains  of  Montana.  The  winter  temperatures  are 
infinitely  less  severe  than  on  the  high  cattle  ranges  of  the  Middle 
West,  native  grasses  are  abundant  and  nutritious,  and  there 
seems  no  reason  why  Alaska  in  a  few  years  shall  not  be  able  to 
supply  its  own  fresh  meats.  This  whole  region  lies  practically 
south  of  the  southern  tip  of  Norway,  yet  dairying  is  one  of  the 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      39 

principal  industries  of  that  country.  The  cattle  in  Norway, 
however,  are  said  to  be  of  an  inferior  breed  and  the  chief  object 
of  the  experimental  stations  has  been  to  find  better  strains,  and 
the  adaptability  of  the  native  grasses  for  winter  feed,  such  as 
hay  and  ensilage.  The  latter  is  an  important  item  in  regions 
where  haymaking  may  be  interfered  with  by  rain. 

As  Alaska  grows,  more  cattle  will  be  kept  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  towns,  where  barley,  oats,  and  timothy  will  be  grown  for 
hay  and  ensilage,  supplemented  by  root  crops,  as  in  other 
countries. 

A  large  part  of  the  added  cost  of  keep  will  be  returned  in 
the  value  of  the  manure  and  the  maintenance  of  the  fertility 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 


Greek  Church  at  Sitka,  Alaska 

of  the  soil.  Unquestionably  the  silo  will  be  an  essential  fea- 
ture in  the  equipment  of  every  farmer  in  Alaska. 

Sheep.  The  sheep  on  Kodiak  and  Raspberry  Islands  have 
also  done  well,  experience  showing  that  the  long-haired  breeds 
are  best  adapted  to  the  moist  coast  climates,  as  the  fleece  sheds 
the  rain  more  rapidly  than  the  thick,  short  wool  of  the  others. 
On  Raspberry  Island  near  Kodiak  there  is  a  band  of  500  or 
more  doing  well. 

Horses.  Horses  are  in  universal  use  in  all  parts  of  the  terri- 
tory, both  as  draft  and  pack  animals,  their  more  extensive  use 
being  limited  chiefly  by  the  absence  of  good  roads. 

Where  such  exist  they  are  used  on  the  winter  stage  lines 
and  may  be  utilized  in  summer  by  the  farmer  when  these 
routes  are  closed.  Abundance  of  hay  and  grain  may  be  raised 


40     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Upper  Kuskok 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      41 


igion,   Alaska 


42     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman  Painting  by  Fuerte; 

Hyperborean  Snowflake,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      43 

in  the  interior  for  winter  use.  One  hundred  and  seventy-five 
horses  form  the  equipment  of  the  White  Pass  Route  from 
Dawson  to  Whitehorse,  and  so  far  as  their  ability  to  stand  the 
climate  is  concerned,  the  only  difference^  lies  in  the  greater 
length  of  the  winter  months  in  the  North,  involving  more 
winter  feeding;  this  again  being  offset  by  the  higher  prices 
obtained  for  their  labor. 

The  small,  tough  ponies  so  common  in  Norway  have  not 
yet  been  introduced,  although  they  fill  so  useful  a  place  in 
that  country  and  ought  to  be  easily  acclimated. 
ALASKA  HOMESTEAD   LAW 

The  United  States  General  Land  Office,  Washington,  D.  C., 
issues  circulars  descriptive  of  the  Homestead  Laws.  Intending 
settlers  should  secure  this  information. 

ADVICE  TO   HOMESTEADERS 

Intending  settlers  must  remember  that  the  entire  white  popu- 
lation of  Alaska  at  this  date  is  equal  to  only  that  of  a  small  town 
in  the  United  States  (some  30,000,  according  to  the  latest  esti- 
mates), and  that  it  is  widely  scattered,  the  centers  of  population 
being  chiefly  along  the  coast  or  on  the  banks  of  the  great  interior 
rivers. 

Settlements  should,  therefore,  be  first  made  where  the 
inhabitants  of  these  towns  can  be  supplied,  and  at  least  a 
portion  of  the  produce  of  the  farm  should  be  of  such  a  char- 
acter as  to  bear  the  cost  of  export  charges.  This  indicates 
diversified  farming,  with  the  production  of  eggs,  butter,  cheese, 
and  live  stock  for  export,  and  in  time  the  canning  of  small 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Dutch  Harbor,  Unalaska   Island,  Alaska 


44      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harrima 


Painting  by  Fuertes 


Willow  Ptarmigan,  Alaska 


fruits,  peas  and  beans,  etc.,  all  of  which  grow  luxuriantly  and 
of  a  quality  not  surpassed  in  the  western  states.  Crops  of 
grain,  peas  and  vetches  can  be  converted  into  pork.  Long 
wool  sheep  will  furnish  wool,  and  surplus  stock  takes  the  place 
of  that  now  imported  annually  as  dressed  meat. 

Fur  Seals.  The  Commissioner  of  the  Fisheries  has  stated  the 
take  of  seal  and  fox  skins  from  the  Pribilof  Islands  for  1917  and 
1918  netted  the  Government  $6,400,000.  Under  careful  govern- 
mental supervision  the  herd,  at  one  time  on  the  verge  of  anni- 
hilation, has  increased  to  about  525,000  animals,  which  inhabit 
the  waters,  of  Alaska  during  the  summer  season. 

It  is  estimated  that  each  seal  kills  at  least  two  tons  of  fish 
each  year.  Consequently,  of  a  total  of  1,050,000  tons  of 
fish  killed  each  year  by  the  herd,  450,000  tons  may  be  called 
Alaska  fish.  If  this  is  so,  it  would  seem  a  wise  policy  on  the 
part  of  the  Government  to  make  a  thorough  investigation,  and 
perhaps  not  to  allow  the  herd  to  increase  to  a  number  in 
excess  of  half  a  million. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     45 


Top — Potatoes,  Near  Dawson,  Yukon  Territory 
Bottom — Oats,  Hunker  Creek,  Yukon  Territory 


46      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


CENSUS  OF  THE  SEAL  HERD 


Class 

1916 

1917 

1918 

1919 

Harem  bulls  

3,5oo 

4,850 

5,344 

5,158 

Breeding  cows  

n6,977 

128,204 

142,915 

I57J72 

Surplus  bulls  

8,977 

17,110 

9,619 

Idle  bulls  

2,632 

2,706 

2,444 

2,239 

Six-year  old  males  

11,167 

15,397 

13,755 

8,991 

Five-year  old  males  

15,494 

14,813 

11,941 

5,282 

Four-year  old  males  

15,427 

16,631 

7,H4 

5,747 

Three-year  old  males  

19,402 

19,507 

9,H7 

13,596 

Two-year  old  males  

24,169 

26,815 

30,159 

33,o8i 

Yearling  males  

33,645 

38,013 

41,596 

46,449 

Two-year  old  cows  

24,245 

26,917 

30,415 

33,287 

Yearling  cows  

33,646 

38,018 

41,608 

46,447 

Pups  

n6,977 

128,024 

142,915 

I57J72 

417,281    468,872    496,433    524,240 
ALASKA  FISHERIES 

Number  of  persons  employed  in  1919  was  28,803,  of  which 
16,326  were  classed  as  whites,  3,875  as  natives,  2,770  as  Chinese, 
1,507  as  Japanese,  1,578  as  Filipinos,  1,891  as  Mexicans,  and 
587  as  miscellaneous. 

Total  investment  in  1919 $74,181,560 

Total  value  of  product 50,282,067 

Invested  in  salmon  canning — total 66,475,171 

Invested  in  salmon  canning,  South  East  Alaska .  .       33,741,891 

Invested  in  salmon  canning,  Central  Alaska 12,897,947 

Invested  in  salmon  canning,  Western  Alaska.  ...        19,855,333 
Value  of  canned  salmon 43,265,349 


900,572 


979,457 
550,605 
286,075 
852,990 
1,790,867 
$1,501,603.50 


Investment  in  herring  fishery 

Value  of  product 

Investment  in  halibut  fishing 

Value  of  product 

Investment  in  codfish  fishing 

Value  of  product 

Investment  in  whale  fishing 

Fur — seal  service — skins  sold  19,157;  value.  .  . 

Fish.  The  fishing  industry  of  Alaska,  measured  by  the  value 
of  its  products,  stands  first  among  its  industries.  It  is  repre- 
sented chiefly  by  five  specific  branches,  the  most  important  of 
which  is  the  salmon  fishery,  with  halibut  in  second  place; 
herring,  third;  cod,  fourth;  and  whaling,  last. 

Salmon.  There  are  five  species  of  Pacific  salmon,  all  of  which 
are  taken  in  Alaska  waters.  Fishing  operations  are  carried 
on  along  practically  the  entire  coast  of  Alaska  from  Dixon 
entrance  northward  to  Kotzbue  Sound,  an  arm  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  The  most  important  species  commercially  is  the  red 
salmon.  The  salmon  are  widely  distributed  and  ascend  most 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     47 


Top — Five  Finger  Rapids,  Yukon  River  in  Yukon 
Bottom — Victoria  Rock,  Yukon  River 


48      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

all  the  larger  rivers  of  Alaska.  Two-thirds  of  the  catch,  how- 
ever, is  made  in  Southeastern  Alaska,  the  greater  proportion 
being  taken  in  fish  traps. 

Four  salmon  hatcheries  were  operated  in  Alaska  in  1919,  the 
annual  capacity  of  which  was  approximately  280,000,000  red 


Typical  Road  Houses  of  Alaska 

salmon  eggs.  The  total  take  of  red  salmon  eggs  in  1919  was 
119,060,000,  in  addition  to  which  3,660,000  humpback  salmon 
eggs  were  also  taken. 

It  is  said  salmon  return  to  the  place  where  they  were  spawned. 
After  thirty  months  at  sea,  during  which  time  nothing  is  known 
of  them,  they  are  drawn  there  by  some  mysterious  instinct. 
From  300  to  400  eggs  to  each  pound  of  parent  fish  is  the  average 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     49 

spawn.  Spending  most  of  their  time  in  salt  water,  the  salmon 
in  summer  run  up  the  fresh-water  streams  as  far  as  they  can,  and 
there  deposit  their  eggs. 

It  is  the  common  belief  of  local  fishermen  that  after  a 
salmon  has  deposited  its  spawn,  the  question  of  its  death 
is  one  of  a  very  short  time. 

"The  spawning  ground  sought  by  the  salmon  is  usually  sandy 
or  gravelly  bottom  in  a  pool  or  eddy,  but  sometimes  beds  are 
swept  out  and  spawn  is  deposited  where  the  bottom  is  covered 
vvith  small  stones. 

" During  the  winter  the  eggs  of  the  salmon  hatch  out,  and  in 
the  spring  after  the  ice  passes  out  of  the  lakes  the  young  salmon 
move  down  the  streams  and  can  often  be  seen  at  the  mouths  in 
large  numbers.  It  is  an  astonishing  sight  to  witness  the  ascent 
of  a  small  salmon  stream  by  the  fish,  urged  on  by  the  repro- 
ductive desire. 

They  work  their  way  slowly  over  riffles  where  there  is  not 
nearly  enough  water  to  float  them,  but  they  seem  to  have  the 
power  of  keeping  themselves  right  side  up,  and  so  long  as 
it  does  not  fall  over,  on  its  side,  a  fish  six  inches  deep  can 
wriggle  over  shoals  where  the  water  is  not  an  inch  deep, 
nearly  as  fast  as  a  man  can  run." — George  Bird  Grunnell. 

Halibut.  The  halibut  fishery  is  given  second  place  among 
the  fishing  industries  of  Alaska  in  1918.  The  important  fishing 
grounds  extend  from  the  southern  end  of  the  territory  westward 
to  Portlock  and  Albatross  banks  near  Kodiak  Island. 


Copyright  by  E.H.    Harriman 

Harriman    Glacier,   Prince  William  Sound,  Alaska 

5 


50      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman  Painting  by  R.  Swan  Gifford 

Mt.  Cook  from  Yakutat  Bay 

Herring  is  the  most  abundant  food  fish  in  Alaska  now  being 
utilized,  and  it  is  obtainable  in  almost  all  localities.  In  1918 
the  government  aided  the  production  of  herring  by  introducing 
the  Scotch  cure  into  Alaska. 

Cod.  The  cod  industry  of  Alaska  experiences  but  slight 
changes  from  year  to  year.  The  catch  of  1919  was  11,000,000 
pounds. 

Two-thirds  of  the  catch  is  made  by  vessels  fishing  in  Bering 
Sea  and  on  Davidson  Bank  south  of  Unimak  Island.  The 
remaining  one-third  comes  from  the  shore  stations  located 
in  the  Sannak  and  Shumagin  Islands.  Some  cod  are  also 
taken  in  the  vicinity  of  Kodiak  and  along  the  southeast  coast. 

Whales.  Despite  the  tremendous  decadence  of  whaling  in 
Alaska  waters  during  recent  years,  the  industry  is  still  a  highly 
productive  one  under  the  modernized  method  known  as  short 
whaling. 

The  picturesque  whaling  argosies  no  longer  scour  the 
seas;  the  old  romance  has  departed  along  with  the  rakish, 
dingy  craft  and  their  motley  crews,  but  that  the  whaling  busi- 
ness is  still  a  highly  valuable  industry  is  indicated  by  the 
recent  announcement  that  the  three  shore  whaling  stations 
operated  at  various  points  on  the  Alaska  coast  during  1917 
and  1918  yielded  collectively  products  valued  at  $834,127  in 
the  latter  year. 

Clams.  The  clam  beds  are  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Egg 
Islands  and  off  the  northwest  point  of  Hinchinbrook  Islands 
near  Sitka  and  in  other  localities.  They  are  reported  to  be  of 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        51 

considerable  extent  and  yield  razor  clams  of  wonderful  size  and 
quality.     Cordova  is  the  principal  clam  canning  center. 

Minor  Fisheries.  Among  the  minor  fisheries  of  Alaska  may 
be  mentioned  the  trout,  sablefish,  red  rockcod,  shrimps,  and 
crabs.  Others  of  lesser  importance  are  the  smelt,  ling  cod, 
eulachon,  tomcod,  flat-fish  and  atkafish. 

Hot  and  Mineral  Springs  are  numerous  and  occur  in  widely 
scattered  regions,  viz. :  Nome  region,  Tanana  Valley,  and  the 
southeastern  districts. 

MINING  LAWS  AND   REGULATIONS 

The  Federal  laws  and  regulations  relative  to  the  location  and 
patenting  of  mineral  lands  in  Alaska  are  embraced  in  the  com- 
piled laws  of  the  territory  of  Alaska. 

The  United  States  General  Land  Office,  Washington,  D.  C., 
issues  a  circular  entitled  "U.  S.  Mining  Laws  and  Regulations 
Thereunder,"  copy  of  which  can  be  secured  by  application 
from  any  local  U.  S.  land  office.  Those  located  in  Alaska  are 
at  Juneau,  Fairbanks,  and  Nome. 

The  acts  of  the  territorial  legislature  of  Alaska  relating  to  the 
location  of  mining  claims  are  embraced  in  the  session  laws  of 
Alaska,  which  can  be  secured  from  the  Secretary  of  Alaska, 
Juneau,  Alaska. 

Pamphlets  embracing  both  the  federal  and  the  territorial 
laws  and  regulations  pertaining  to  the  location  and  patenting 
of  mineral  lands  are  on  sale  at  the  leading  stationers. 

ALASKA  MINERAL  PRODUCTION 

The  mining  industry  of  Alaska  produced  during  the  year  1920 
$22,070,000 

With  the  return  of  pre-war  or  more  normal  conditions, 
Alaska's  great  mining  activities  will  greatly  expand  both  in  the 
variety  of  minerals  mined  and  in  value  of  output. 


Gold 

1867-1918 
$311,664,993 

1919 
$    8,OOO,OOO 

1867-1919 
$319,664,993 

Copper 

114,526,096 

I2,4OO,OOO 

126,926,096 

Silver                   

6,303,587 

9OO,OOO 

7,203,587 

Tin                

917,972 

2O,OOO 

937,972 

Lead                             

522,318 

I42,OOO 

664,318 

Antimony 

2^7,SOO 

237,5OO 

Coal  

1,440,460 

35O,OOO 

1,820,460 

Platinum,   palladium,   marble, 
gypsum,  petroleum,  etc  

2,548,079 

228,OOO 

2,776,079 

$438,161,005    $22,070,000    $460,231,005 


52     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Barytes.  This  mineral,  used  in  the  manufacture  of  paints, 
occurs  in  two  places  in  Southeastern  Alaska  in  commercial 
quantities  and  of  good  quality. 

Chromite.  Deposits  have  been  discovered  near  Port  Chat- 
ham and  Seldovia,  and  also  in  the  Tolovana  District. 

Cinnabar.  Ueta-cinnabar  has  been  discovered  in  the  Idi- 
tarod-Kuskokwim  region. 

Coal.  Deposits,  ranging  in  grade  from  lignite  to  anthracite, 
are  of  greater  area  than  were  originally  contained  in  the  State 
of  Pennsylvania;  and  we  know  now  geologically  less  than  half 
of  Alaska.  The  U.  S.  Geological  Survey  estimates  the  coal 
area  at  12,667  miles.  These  deposits  occur  in  all  parts  of  the 
Territory,  from  Pacific  to  Arctic  oceans,  the  least  favored  sec- 


Summer  in  Skagway,  Alaska 


tion  being  the  islands  of  the  southeastern  portion,  where  the 
deposits  are  of  limited  extent.  The  higher  grade  finds  are  in 
the  Bering  field  near  Controller  Bay,  and  those  in  the  Mata- 
nuska  Valley,  north  of  Seward.  Analyses  of  the  coals  in  these 
two  fields,  ranging  from  bituminous  to  anthracite,  show  that 
in  quality  they  are  equal  to  those  of  similar  fields  in  the  states. 
Copper.  The  deposits  of  Central  Alaska  are  among  its  most 
important  resources.  The  only  developed  copper  districts  are 


RAND   MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     53 


Midnight  Sun  in  Summertime 
Fort  Yukon,  Alaska 


54      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

in  the  Chitina  Valley  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island  and  Latouche 
Island  in  Prince  William  Sound.  Considerable  development 
has  also  been  done  on  copper  deposits  which  lie  in  a  belt  stretch- 
ing from  Nabesna  River  to  White  River.  Copper  mining 
began  in  1900;  the  total  production  is  about  613,761,614 
pounds,  valued  at  $126,926,096. 

Placer  mining  is  the  process  of  separating  particles  of  gold 
from  the  sand  or  gravel,  with  which  they  are  mixed,  by  washing 
the  gravel  in  moving  water,  the  lighter  material  being  carried 
away,  and  the  heavy  gold  remaining,  along  with  any  other 
heavy  minerals,  such  as  platinum  and  tin,  which  the  gravels 
may  contain. 

In  its  simplest  form  the  outfit  of  the  prospector  comprises 
a  pick,  a  shovel,  a  large  flat  sheet  iron  pan,  known  as  a  gold 
pan,  an  iron  constitution  and  an  unfailing  fund  of  hope  and 
patience. 

In  the  second  stage  he  may  use  a  rocker,  which  is  merely  a 
screen  on  the  top  of  a  box,  to  separate  the  coarse  gravel,  while 
the  finer  material  drops  on  a  sloping  board  or  apron,  where  by 
rocking  the  box  sideways,  the  gravel  is  cleaned  and  passes  over 
a  lip  at  the  lower  end  of  the  apron,  which  retains  the  heavier 
gold. 

In  larger  surface  operations  the  gravel  is  shoveled  into  a  long 
sluice  box,  lined  on  the  bottom  with  riffles,  and  set  on  a  good 
grade  with  abundance  of  water,  called  a  sluice-head;  but  this 
method  requires  plenty  of  room  at  the  end  of  the  sluices  to  take 
care  of  the. waste  or  tailings.  Where  the  body  of  gravel  is  not 
deep  it  may  all  be  washed  away  to  reach  the  richer  material 
in  the  bottom  of  the  valley  trough,  which  is  called  the  pay 
streak.  If  the  ground  be  too  deep,  shafts  are  sunk  to  bedrock 
and  the  pay  dirt  excavated  as  in  coal  mining,  hoisted  to  the 
surface  and  washed  in  the  usual  way.  This  is  called  drift 
mining.  In  all  these  hand  operations  only  the  cream  of  the 
deposit  can  be  removed,  as  the  cost  is  high,  so  that  large 
bodies  of  low  grade  gravel  are  left  untouched. 

When  conditions  admit  the  use  of  water  under  pressure  so 
that  it  can  be  used  to  tear  down  the  bank  and  drive  the  gravel 
into  the  sluice  boxes,  this  method  is  called  hydraulic  mining, 
and  gravel  of  much  lower  value  per  yard  can  be  handled  prof- 
itably as  the  water  takes  the  place  of  high-priced  human  labor. 
This  method  requires  a  sufficient  slope  to  the  ground  to  provide 
dump  facilities  for  the  waste. 

In  flat  regions  and  where  the  pay  is  too  deep  for  dredges, 
this  difficulty  is  obviated  by  the  use  of  hydraulic  lifts.  This 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


55 


method,  however,  requires  a  greater  supply  of  water  with 
increased  pressure  as  the  material  must  all  be  lifted  by  water 
into  the  sluice  boxes.  At  the  plant  of  the  Pioneer  Mining 
Company  at  Nome,  the  material  is  raised  to  an  elevation  of 
40  to  50  feet. 

In  such  cases,  or  where  the  ground  cannot  be  drained,  resort 
is  had  to  dredging,  which  can  be  carried  on  either  in  open  water 
or  at  any  point  where  water  can  be  had  in  sufficient  quantities 
to  make  a  pond  in  which  the  dredge  can  float;  the  dredge 
being  nothing  more  than  a  barge  with  machinery  in  front  to 
scoop  up  the  gravel,  which,  after  washing,  is  dumped  over- 
board at  the  stern  by  an  endless  belt  on  an  elevator  or  stacker, 
as  it  is  sometimes  called. 

It  is  plain  that  the  capacity  of  the  dredge  is  limited  only 
by  the  depth  to  which  it  can  dig,  and  the  size  and  number  of 
the  boulders  in  the  gravel  on  the  bedrock  where  the  best 
pay  is  found. 

For  these  reasons,  on  some  of  the  creeks  around  Fairbanks 
the  depth  of  muck  and  worthless  material  is  too  great  for 
dredging  operations,  while  the  Nome  region,  the  Iditarod, 
Ruby,  Circle  City,  Eagle  and  Fortymile  regions,  as  well  as 
the  Kenai  Peninsula,  are  well  suited  to  their  use. 


U.  S.  Agricultural  Experiment  Farm  at  Sitka,  Alaska 


56     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Hurricane  Gulch  Bridge,   U.  §.  Government  R.  R.,  Alaska,       284 


1 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     57 


am  Seward.        Total  Length,   918  Feet.     325  Feet  Above  Bed  of  Stream 


58      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Gold.  Placers  and  lodes  are  to  be  found  in  all  sections  of 
Alaska  where  gold  is  probably  more  universally  distributed 
than  in  any  other  country  of  the  world. 

Graphite,  or  plumbago,  frequently  called  black-lead,  and 
used  for  the  manufacture  of  pencils,  stove  polish,  and  lubricants, 
is  found  on  the  Seward  Peninsula. 

Gypsum.  One  of  the  non-metallic  mineral  resources  mined 
on  an  extensive  scale  at  Gypsum,  on  the  east  shore  of  Chichagof 
Island,  Southeastern  Alaska.  The  crude  rock  is  shipped  to 
Tacoma  where  it  is  worked  into  various  forms  for  sale. 

Iron.  Large  deposits  of  good  grade  have  been  discovered  in 
numerous  localities.  Magnetite  deposits  occur  on  Prince  of 
Wales  Island,  in  the  Illiamna  district  and  near  Haines.  Hema- 
tite occurs  in  the  Lake  Clark  district.  On  Seward  Peninsula 
are  bodies  of  iron  ore  of  considerable  size. 

Lead.  Has  been  discovered  and  is  being  developed.  The 
lode  mines  at  Juneau  carry  considerable  galena,  and  galena- 
bearing  lodes  occur  in  the  Ketchikan  and  Wrangell  districts. 
Lead  ore  occurs  in  Fish  River  Basin  of  Seward  Peninsula, 
Broad  Pass  region,  and  the  Koyukuk  district.  One  of  the 
most  promising  discoveries  is  in  the  Kantishna  district. 

Marble.  Marble  of  an  excellent  quality  is  found  in  numerous 
localities  in  the  Ketchikan  and  Wrangell  districts,  Southeastern 
Alaska.  The  most  extensive  development  is  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  northern  end  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  with  the  center  of 
activity  at  Tokeen,  on  Marble  Island.  Other  localities  include 
Dolomi  and  Dickman  Bay  at  the  southeast  end  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Island,  Revillagigedo  Island,  and  on  Ham  Island  and 
vicinity.  Alaska  marble  is  being  used  extensively  throughout 
the  West  for  interior  building  decorations.  Cities  of  the  West 
where  Alaska  marble  can  be  seen  in  the  larger  recently  con- 
structed buildings  include  Seattle,  Tacoma,  Bellingham,  and 
North  Yakima,  in  the  State  of  Washington;  Vancouver,  B.  C.; 
Portland,  Ore.;  San  Francisco,  Oakland,  Sacramento,  Los 
Angeles,  San  Diego,  and  Presidio,  California;  Boise,  Moscow, 
and  Lewiston,  Idaho,  and  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah. 

Molybdenum  and  Bismuth  have  been  discovered. 

Nickel  and  Cobalt.  A  copper  lode  carrying  nickel  and 
cobalt  is  under  development  on  Chichagof  Island. 

Palladium.  Has  been  discovered  in  connection  with  mining 
copper  ore  of  the  Saltchuck  Mine  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island. 

Petroleum.  Oil  seepages  have  been  known  in  Alaska  for  a 
period  of  fifty  years,  those  first  discovered  being  in  the  Iliamna 
region  on  Cook  Inlet.  All  the  oil  lands  in  Alaska  were 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


59 


withdrawn  from  entry  in  1910;  but  the  Oil  Land  Leasing  Act, 
passed  February  25,  1920,  contains  provisions  which  promise 
an  immediate  development.  Under  it  prospecting  and  produc- 
tion may  be  carried  on  by  the  payment  of  certain  rental  and 
royalties  as  follows: 

"The  Secretary  of  the  Interior  may  grant  a  permit  for  the 
exclusive  right  for  not  to  exceed  four  years,  to  prospect  for  oil 
or  gas  on  not  to  exceed  2,560  acres  of  land,  provided  the  per- 
mittee shall  within  two  years  begin  drilling  and  drill  one  or  more 
wells  not  less  than  500  feet  deep  within  three  years,  and  shall 
within  four  years  drill  to  an  aggregate  depth  of  not  less  than 
2,000  feet,  unless  valuable  deposits  be  sooner  discovered." 

The  secretary  may,  if  necessary,  extend  this  permit  for  two 
years. 

The  discoverers  of  deposits  of  oil  or  gas  under  the  permit  shall 
be  entitled  to  a  lease  of  one-fourth  of  the  land  embraced  in  the 
permit — such  lease  to  be  for  twenty  years  upon  a  royalty  of  5  per 
cent  of  the  amount  or  value  of  the  production  and  an  annual  rent- 
al of  $1.00  per  acre.  The  permittee  also  to  have  the  preference 
to  lease  the  remainder  of  the  land  under  his  permit  at  royalty 
of  not  less  than  12^  per  cent  and  other  conditions  provided. 

Alaska  petroleum  compares  favorably  with  the  best  Penn- 
sylvania product,  having  a  paraffin  base  with  high  gasoline 
content. 

'The  Katalla  field  is  a  producing  field  with  ten  wells  being 
operated.  The  product  is  refined  and  sold  around  Prince 
William  Sound. 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Deserted  Indian  Village,  Cape  Fox,  Alaska 


60     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

To  encourage  production  of  petroleum  in  Alaska  the  secretary 
may  waive  rental  or  royalty  for  not  to  exceed  five  years  and 
not  more  than  five  permits  may  be  granted  to  any  applicant. 

Since  the  oil  leasing  regulations  became  effective,  there  have 
been  filed  at  the  United.  States  Land  Office  in  Juneau  applica- 
tions for  staking  oil  land  in  Alaska  in  eleven  different  districts 

as  follows :  -, 

No. 

District  Applications         Acres 

Cold  Bay 181  459,520 

Katalla. 65  99,973 

Yakataga 36  75*530 

Illiamna 30  69,400 

Kootznahoo 16  35»52o 

Cape  Spencer 3  7,680 

Chinitna 3  7,680 

Seward 2  3, 520 

Wasilla 2  5, 120 

Anchorage 10  19,840 

Aniakshak 6  15.360 

Total 354  799,133 

Platinum  has  been  discovered  in  placer  operations  in  the 
Dime  Creek  region,  Seward  Peninsula,  and  from  the  Copper 
River  region,  and  was  reported  as  being  extensively  distributed 
in  Sustina  Basin.  It  is  also  carried  in  the  copper  ores  at  the 
Shalt  chuck  Mine  near  Ketchikan. 

Silver.  There  are  no  mines  worked  especially  for  silver. 
This  metal  is  obtained  solely  in  the  refining  of  gold  and  copper. 
The  yield,  1867-1919,  was  valued  at  $6,248,314. 

Sulphur.  A  deposit  of  sulphur  is  being  developed  on  Akun 
Island  on  the  Alaska  Peninsula. 

Tin.  Tin  occurs  in  Alaska  and  Seward  peninsulas  and 
the  Hot  Springs  region  of  the  Tanana  Valley,  both  as  placer 
tin  and  in  lode  veins;  also  in  Cleary  Creek,  near  Fairbanks, 
near  Circle  City  on  Deadwood  Creek,  and  on  the  Notak.  Tin 
mining  has  taken  its  place  as  a  regular  industry  on  Buck  Creek 
near  Cape  Teller  in  the  region  north  of  Nome. 

Tungsten.  In  1915  a  vein  was  discovered  in  Fairbanks 
district,  and  recently  near  Sitka,  and  also  in  gold  placers. 

LOCATION    OF  PRINCIPAL   MINING   CENTERS 

Aniak — Gold  placer.     Lower  Kuskokwim,  east  of  river. 

Bering  River — Coal  and  oil.  South  coast,  east  of  mouth  of 
Copper  River. 

Berners  Bay — Gold  lode.  Southeastern,  northern  portion, 
about  thirty-five  miles  northeast  of  Juneau. 

Bonnifield  Region — Coal.  South  Tanana  watershed,  be- 
tween Delta  and  Nenana  rivers. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     6i 

Bremner — Gold  placer.  East  side  of  Copper  River,  forty 
miles  above  its  mouth. 

Broad  Pass — Gold  lode.  Head  of  Chulitna  River,  northern 
tributary  of  the  Susitna  River. 


Hunting  Coats,  Knee  Trousers  and  Spiral  Leggings  Are  Worn  by  Both  Men  and 
Women  When  "Mushing"  and  Hunting  in  Alaska  and  Yukon 

.  Candle  Creek — Gold  placer.  Kuskokwim  Valley,  eight  miles 
south  of  mouth  of  Takotna  River. 

Casadepaga — Gold  placer.  Seward  Peninsula,  forty  miles 
northeast  of  Nome. 

Chandlar — Gold  placer.  Chandlar  River,  northern  tributary 
of  Yukon,  below  mouth  of  Porcupine  River. 

Chichagof — Gold  quartz.  Chichagof  Island,  northern  por- 
tion of  Southeastern  Alaska. 

Chisana — Gold  placer  and  quartz.  Southern  tributary 
Upper  Tanana  River,  near  east  boundary. 

Chisna — Gold  placer.  Northern  portion  of  Chistochina 
River,  a  northern  tributary  of  the  Copper  River. 

Chistochina — Gold  placer.  Northern  portion  of  Copper 
River  basin. 

Circle — Gold  placer.  About  forty  miles  southwest  of  Circle, 
Upper  Yukon. 

Council — Gold  placer.  Seward  Peninsula,  about  fifty  miles 
northeast  of  Nome. 

Dime  Creek — Gold  placer.     Koyuk  Valley,  Seward  Peninsula. 

Eagle  River — Gold  quartz.  Southeastern  Alaska,  about 
twenty-two  miles  northwest  of  Juneau. 

Eek  River — Gold  placer.  Eastern  tributary  of  Kuskokwim 
Bay. 


62      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Ellamar — Copper.  Northeastern  shore  of  Prince  William 
Sound. 

Fairbanks — Gold  placer,  gold  quartz  and  antimony.  Tanana 
Valley  embraces  Cleary,  Goldstream,  Ester,  Dome,  Fairbanks, 
Vault  and  Little  Eldorado  creeks. 

Fairhaven — Gold  placer.  Seward  Peninsula,  northern  por- 
tion, embracing  Good  Hope,  Inmachuk  River,  Kougarok,  and 
Kiwalik. 

Fortymile — Gold  placer.  Southwest  of  Fortymile,  Upper 
Yukon,  adjacent  to  eastern  boundary. 

Georgetown — Gold  placer  and  cinnabar.  Central  portion 
and  north  side  Kuskokwim  Valley. 

Good  News  District — Gold  placer.     Kuskokwim  Bay. 

Hanagita — Copper.  Southeast  junction  of  Chitina  and 
Copper  rivers. 

Hammond  River — Gold  placer  and  quartz.  Northern  tribu- 
tary, middle  fork  Koyukuk  River,  ten  miles  north  of  Coldfoot. 

Healy  River — Gold  placer.  Northern  tributary  of  the 
Tanana  about  forty  miles  above  mouth  of  Delta  River. 

Hope — Gold  placer  and  quartz.  Northern  portion  of  Kenai 
Peninsula,  southern  shore  of  Turnagain  Arm. 

Hot  Springs — Gold  placer.  North  side  of  Tanana  Valley, 
near  mouth. 

Hyder — Gold  Quartz.     Head  of  Portland  Canal. 

Iditarod — Gold  placer.   Lower  portion  Yukon  Valley,  east  side. 

Iliamna-Lake  Clark — Copper.  West  shore  and  mouth  of 
Cook  Inlet. 

Innoko — Gold  placer  and  quartz.  Lower  Yukon,  eastern 
portion,  100  miles  northeast  of  Iditarod. 

Iron  Creek — Gold  placer.  Seward  Peninsula,  forty  miles 
north  of  Nome. 

Juneau — Gold  quartz.  Central  portion  of  Southeastern 
Alaska. 

Kantishna — Gold  placer  and  quartz;  120  miles  southwest  of 
Fairbanks. 

Katalla — Oil.     East  mouth  of  Copper  River. 

Kenai  Lake — Gold  quartz.  Kenai  Peninsula,  twenty  miles 
north  of  Seward. 

Ketchikan — Copper  and  gold  quartz.  Southern  portion  of 
Southeastern  Alaska. 

Kern  Creek — Gold  placer.     North  shore,  Turnagain  Arm. 

Kobuk — Gold  placer,  jade,  copper.  East  shore,  Kotzebue 
Sound. 

Kodiak  Island — Gold  quartz.     South  of  Cook  Inlet. 

Kotsina-Chitina — Copper.  Chitina  Valley,  Copper  River 
region. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     63 

Kougarok — Gold  placer.  Seward  Peninsula,  seventy-five 
miles  northeast  of  Nome. 

Koyuk — Gold  placer.  Koyuk  River,  eastern  portion  of 
Seward  Peninsula. 

Koyukuk — Gold  placer  and  quartz.  Upper  tributaries 
Koyukuk  River,  north  of  Yukon. 

Latouche — Copper.     Southern  end  of  Prince  William  Sound. 

Lituya  Bay — Gold  placer.  North  portion,  Southeastern 
Alaska,  outer  coast. 

Matanuska — Coal.  Matanuska  River,  tributary  of  Knik 
Arm,  northern  reach  Cook  Inlet. 

McKinley  Lake — Gold  quartz.  West  side  and  near  mouth 
of  Copper  River. 

Moore  Creek — Gold  placer.  Tributary  of  Takotna  River, 
.fifty  miles  northeast  of  Iditarod. 

Moose  Pass — Gold  quartz.  Kenai  Peninsula,  thirty  miles 
north  of  Seward. 

Mulchatna — Gold  placer.  Northern  tributary  Nushagak 
River,  head  of  Bristol  Bay. 

Nabesna  River  District — Copper.  Southern  tributary  Upper 
Tanana. 

Nelchina — Gold  placer.  Western  section  Tonsina  Valley,  a 
western  tributary  of  the  Copper  River. 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 


Painting  by  Fuei 


Longtailed  Jaeger,  Alaska 


64     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Nenana — Coal.     Nenana  River,  southern  tributary  of  Ta- 
nana,  west  portion  of  Bonnifield  region. 

Nixon   Fork — Gold  Quartz.     Nixon  Fork,  Takotna  River, 
Kuskokwim  region. 

Nizina — Gold  placer  and  copper.     Northern  portion  Chitina 
River,  Copper  River  region. 

Noatak-Kobuk — Gold  placer  and  copper.     Embracing  Noa- 
tak  and  Kobuk  rivers,  northeast  of  Kotzebue  Sound. 

Nome — Gold    placer    and    antimony.     Seward    Peninsula, 
southern  coast. 

Port  Clarence — Gold  placer.     Seward  Peninsula,  sixty  miles 
northwest  of  Nome. 

Porcupine — Gold  placer.     Klehini  Valley,  wester n  tributary 
of  Chilkat,  northern  portion  Southeastern  Alaska. 

Port    Wells — Gold    quartz.     Western    portion    of    Prince^ 
William  Sound.  ^ 

Prince   William   Sound — Copper   and   gold   quartz.     South 
coast,  head  of  Gulf  of  Alaska. 

Rampart — Gold  placer.     South  of  Rampart,  Center  Yukon. 

Ruby — Gold  placer.     Central  Yukon,  south  of  river. 

Shungnak — Gold  placer  and  copper.     Central  part,  Kobuk 
basin. 

Sitka — Gold  quartz.     Northwestern  portion  of  Southeastern 
Alaska. 

Solomon — Gold    placer    and    quartz.     Seward    Peninsula, 
thirty  miles  east  of  Nome. 

Squirrel    River — Gold    placer.     Western    part    of    Kobuk 
Basin,  Kotzebue  Sound. 

Sunrise — Gold  placer.     Northern  portion  of  Kenai  Peninsula, 
southern  shore  Turnagain  Arm. 

Talkeetna — Gold    quartz    and    copper.     East    side    center 
Susitna  Valley. 

Tenderfoot — Gold  placer.     Tanana  Valley,  sixty  miles  south- 
east of  Fairbanks. 

Togiak — Gold  placer  and  quartz.     Togiak  Bay,  indentation 
northern  shore  Bristol  Bay. 

Tolovana — Gold  placer.     Upper  portion  Tolovana  Valley, 
forty  miles  northwest  of  Fairbanks. 

Tuluksak — Gold  placer.     East  side  of  Kuskokwim  River, 
near  mouth. 

Unalaska — Gold  quartz.     Aleutian  Islands,  eastern  portion. 

Unga — Gold  quartz.     Unga  Island,  Shumagin  Islands,  south 
of  Alaska  Peninsula. 

Valdez — Gold  quartz  and  copper.     North  end  and  head  of 
Prince  William  Sound. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     65 


The  Wharf  at  Anchorage,  Alaska 

Valdez  Creek — Gold  placer.  Northern  tributary  of  Susitna 
River. 

Wade  Hampton — Gold  placer.  North  bank  Yukon,  lower 
portion,  about  sixty-five  miles  above  Andreafski  (Marshall 
City). 

White  River — Copper.  Headwater  region  of  White  River, 
near  east  boundary. 

Willow  Creek — Gold  quartz.  East  side  mouth  Susitna 
Valley. 

Woodchopper — Gold  placer.  South  of  Yukon  River,  be- 
tween Eagle  and  Circle. 

Wrangell — Copper,  gold  quartz,  and  marble.  Central  portion 
of  Southeastern  Alaska. 

Yakataga — Gold  placer.  Southern  coast,  west  of  Mt. 
St.  Elias. 

Yentna — Gold  placer.     Western  part  Susitna  Valley. 


FORESTS 

Practically  all  of  the  merchantable  timber  of  Alaska  is 
embraced  within  national  forest  reserves  under  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  U.  S.  Forest  Bureau.  The  Tongass  National 
Forest  covers  the  entire  southeastern  Alaska  Archipelago,  and 


66      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Labor   Day  at  Anchorage,  Alaska 

the  Chugach  National  Forest,  with  a  width  of  about  60  miles, 
extends  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  from  the  Malaspina 
Glacier  to  Cook  Inlet. 

The  following  statements  are  condensed  from  the  official 
report  of  R.  S.  Kellogg,  assistant  forester  in  1910,  the  report 
of  the  Governor  of  Alaska  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  31, 
1912,  and  from  local  sources  where  they  relate  to  the  Fairbanks 
mining  industries. 

The  total  area  of  the  forests  and  woodlands  in  the  territory 
is  estimated  at  about  100,000,000  acres,  or  156,250  square 
miles,  or  27  per  cent  of  the  total  area.  Of  this  about  20,000,000 
acres,  or  31,250  square  miles,  are  estimated  as  containing  tim- 
ber suitable  for  manufacturing  purposes,  or  more  than  the 
area  of  South  Carolina  and  nearly  that  of  Maine  or  Indiana. 
Of  the  remaining  80  per  cent,  or  125,000  square  miles,  one- 
half  is  classed  as  woodland,  carrying  some  saw  timber,  but 
on  which  the  forest  trees  are  of  a  small  size,  more  scattered 
and  valuable  chiefly  for  fuel;  the  tree  growth  on  the  remainder 
being  stunted,  scrubby  and  valueless  for  any  purpose  except 
the  camp  fires  of  the  prospector.  The  region  north  of  the 
Endicott  mountains,  all  of  the  shores  of  Bering  Sea,  and  the 
Alaska  Peninsula  south  of  Iliamna  Lake,  are  practically  desti- 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      67 

tute  of  timber,  producing  nothing  larger  than  willows  of  very 
small  growth,  and  those  only  in  a  few  localities. 

The  trees  suitable  for  lumber  on  the  coast  region  are  in 
point  of  numbers  and  value,  the  western  hemlock,  the  Sitka 
spruce,  western  red  cedar  and  yellow  or  Alaska  cedar.  The 
forests  are  dense  and  as  much  as  25,000  feet  per  acre  has  been 
estimated  for  considerable  tracts,  of  which  20  per  cent  is  spruce, 
75  per  cent  hemlock,  and  the  remainder  cedar  and  other  timber 
trees.  The  spruce  reaches  a  large  size,  up  to  6  feet  in  diameter 
and  a  height  of  150  feet.  Diameters  of  3  or  4  feet  are  attained 
by  the  cedars.  The  growth  is  fairly  rapid,  spruce  logs  averaging 
32  inches  in  diameter  averaged  262  annual  rings;  two  others 
54  inches  in  diameter  showed  525  and  600  rings. 

The  forests  of  the  interior  are  practically  all  included  in  the 
drainage  basins  of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskokwim  Rivers  and  are 
of  a  more  deciduous  type,  saw  timber  being  secured  from  the 
white  spruce  and  cordwood  from  the  white  birch,  poplar, -balsam 
poplar,  black  cottonwood,  and  aspen.  The  timber  is  small; 
white  spruce  and  balsam  poplar  sometimes  attain  a  diameter 
of  1 8  to  24  inches;  while  birch  and  aspen  average  about  8  inches, 
running  up  to  18  in  favorable  localities.  Other  trees  are  smaller. 
The  white  spruce  and  balsam  poplar  grow  to  75  feet;  birch, 
aspen,  and  poplar  to  50;  black  spruce  from  20  to  40,  and  tama- 
rack seldom  over  30.  Twenty-five  spruce  logs  32  feet  long  and 
slightly  over  n  inches  in  diameter  showed  an  average  of  104 
annual  rings,  indicating  a  growth  of  one  inch  in  nearly  nine 
years,  thus  comparing  favorably  with  the  growth  of  red  spruce 
in  New  York  and  New  England. 

The  spruce  of  Southeastern  Alaska  is  used  extensively  for 
box  material,  and  is  now  coming  into  use  for  aeroplane  frames, 
furniture,  piano  backs  and  oars  for  racing  boats.  The  great 
value  of  this  timber  is  in  its  use  for  paper  pulp.  It  is  little 
used  for  building  purposes,  due  to  the"  competition  of  Puget 
Sound  timber,  which  is  more  suitable  for  such  purposes.  In 
the  interior,  the  timber  is  used  to  a  greater  extent  for  building 
purposes,  due  to  the  high  freight  charges.  Its  principal  use 
throughout  the  interior  is  for  fuel. 

The  Alaska  spruce,  known  as  the  Sitka  spruce,  has  been 
found  to  be  the  most  suitable  material  available  for  aeroplane 
frames,  due  to  its  toughness  and  pliability.  With  the  present 
great  demand  for  this  material,  the  building  up  of  a  large  and 
profitable  industry  is  assured.  In  the  spring  of  1917  the  saw- 
mills in  Southeastern  Alaska  were  filling  large  orders  for  manu- 
facturers of  aeroplanes.  The  production  of  paper  pulp  is 
attracting  attention.  The  mill  at  Snettisham  made  the  first 
shipment  of  pulp  from  Alaska  during  the  year. 


68 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


On  the  Tongas  Forest,  during  the  fiscal  year  (1919)  there 
were  264  timber  sales  covering  45,029,680  board  feet  of  saw  tim- 
ber and  piling  and  41,470,580  board  feet  cut.  On  the  Chugach 
there  were  112  sales  covering  7,034,270  board  feet  and  3,932,420 
board  feet  cut.  There  was  also  cut  4,147,470  feet  under  "free 
use."  Considerable  "free use"  is  granted  annually  to  settlers, 
who  are  privileged  to  secure  what  they  need  for  domestic 
purposes  at  such  points  as  are  most  convenient  to  them. 

The  Department  of  Agriculture  believes  that  the  develop- 
ment of  the  forest  and  water-power  resources  of  Alaska  is  a 
practicable  means  of  increasing  the  supplies  of  newsprint 
available  for  the  United  States.  Under  careful  management 
these  forests  can  produce  2,000,000  cords  of  pulp  wood  annually 
for  all  time.  The  Alaska  forests  also  contain  the  water 
power.  The  Forest  Service  estimates  the  potential  horsepower 
at  least  a  quarter  of  a  million. 

REINDEER 

The  reindeer  industry  of  Alaska  was  established  by  the 
United  States  Government  primarily  to  furnish  a  means  of 
livelihood  for  the  natives,  to  supply  in  a  measure  a  food  to 
replace  game,  seal,  and  walrus  which  were  being  rapidly 
depleted. 

Number  imported  by  the  U.  S.  Government,  1892-1902 1,280 

Number  of  reindeer,  May,  1920 180,000 

Estimated  number,  June,  1921 220,000 

Number  of  herds,  June  30,  1917 98 


On  the  Copper  River  &  Northwestern  Ry. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      69 

Wealth  Produced  by  Introduction  of  Reindeer  in  Alaska 

Valuation  of  125,000  reindeer  owned  by  natives  in  1920  at 

$25.  each $3,125,000 

Total  income  of  natives  from  reindeer  1893-1920 965,807 

Valuation  of  55,000  reindeer  owned  by  missions,  Laplanders, 

and  other  whites,  and  Government,  1920 1,375,000 

Total  income  of  missions  and  Laplanders,  and  other  whites 

from  reindeer,  1893-1919 _  400,000 

Total  valuation  and  income $5,865,807 

Total  government  appropriations,  1893-1919 _      334,400 

Gain  1654  per  cent $5.53i,4O7 

Ownership  of  Reindeer,  June  30,  1919 

United  States  Government 5,ooo 

Missions 6,000 

Laplanders 4,000 

Natives  (1,293) 125,000 

Whites 40,000 

Total 180,000 

Income  of  natives,  year  ending  June  30,  IQIQ,  from  reindeer 
industry,  exclusive  of  meat  and  hides,  used  by  the  natives 
themselves,  was  $150,000  (est.). 

This  most  important  industry  is  under  the  direction  of  the 
Bureau  of  Education,  Department  of  the  Interior,  which  also 
has  direction  of  the  education  and  medical  care  of  the  natives. 
The  immediate  direction  of  this  work  is  in  charge  of  Mr.  W.  T. 
Lopp,  offices,  Smith  Building,  Seattle.  Those  desiring  more 
detailed  information  are  advised  to  address  the  Bureau  of 
Education,  Washington,  D.  C.,  or  the  Seattle  office. 

The  reindeer  are  distributed  among  the  natives  under  a 
system  of  apprenticeship,  whereby  each  apprentice  receives 
6,8,  and  10  reindeer  by  the  close  of  the  first,  second,  and  third 
years,  respectively,  and  10  more  at  the  close  of  the  fourth 
year,  when,  if  he  has  demonstrated  his  ability,  he  assumes  entire 
charge  of  his  herd,  and  must,  in  turn,  employ  and  similarly 
distribute  reindeer  among  his  apprentices. 

Under  the  governmental  regulations  no  native  may  dispose 
of  female  reindeer  to  the  whites. 

The  Lapp  herders  who  were  responsible  for  the  eaily  training 
of  the  native  herders  were  allowed  a  percentage  of  the  increase 
of  their  respective  herds.  As  shown  above,  the  herds  of  these 
Lapps  now  total  23,443  head.  The  Lapps  are  not  so  restricted 
in  the  sale  of  female  reindeer  to  the  whites  as  are  the  natives, 
and  from  the  herds  of  these  Lapps  an  incorporated  company 
of  Nome  citizens,  organized  to  carry  on  this  industry,  have 
acquired  about  23,000  reindeer.  Their  intention  is  to  place 
it  on  a  commercial  basis  and  annually  ship  reindeer  meat  to 
the  States. 


70      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


The  reindeer  is  essentially  an  inhabitant  of  snowy  countries, 
feeding  on  lichens  or  moss,  mushrooms,  grass,  and  willow 
sprouts,  which  grow  even  on  the  poorest  soils,  and  furnishes 
the  natives  with  food  and  clothing  and  many  little  things 
which  contribute  to  their  comfort.  Its  commercial  possi- 
bilities may  be  judged  from  the  following  extracts  from  official 
documents  relating  to  Norway  and  Sweden,  the  northern 
portions  of  which,  known  as  Lapland,  are  climatically  similar 
to  the  northern  portions  of  Alaska. 

"Through  Norway  and  Sweden  smoked  reindeer  meat  and 
smoked  reindeer  tongues  are  everywhere  found  for  sale  in  their 
markets,  the  hams  being  worth  10  cents  a  pound  and  the  tongues 
10  cents  apiece.  There  are  wealthy  merchants  in  Stockholm 
whose  specialty  and  entire  trade  is  in  these  Lapland  products. 

"Reindeer  skins  are  marketed  all  over  Europe,  being  worth 
in  their  raw  condition  from  $1.50  to  $1.75  apiece.  The  tanned 
skins  (soft  with  a  beautiful  yellow  color)  find  a  ready  sale  at 
from  $2.00  to  $2.75  each.  Reindeer  skins  are  used  for  gloves, 
military  riding  trousers,  and  binding  of  books. 

"Reindeer  hair  is  in  great  demand  for  the  filling  of  life-saving 
apparatus,  and  from  the  horns  is  made  the  best  existing  glue. 
Two  great  articles,  smoked  reindeer  tongues  and  tanned  skins, 
are  among  the  principal  products  of  the  great  annual  fair  at 
Nischnij -Novgorod,  Russia. 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Columbia  Glacier,  Alaska,  from  Heather  Island 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      71 

"In  Lapland  (on  an  area  of  14,000  square  miles)  there  are 
about  400,000  head  of  reindeer,  sustaining  in  comfort  some 
26,000  people. 

'  'There  is  no  reason  why  Arctic  and  sub-Arctic  Alaska  should 
not  sustain  a  population  of  100,000  people  with  2,000,000  head 
of  reindeer." 

Lapland  sends  to  market  about  22,000  head  of  reindeer  a 
year,  the  surplus  of  her  herds,  which  at  an  average  weight  per 
carcass,  dressed,  of  about  150  pounds,  is  equal  to  1,660  tons. 
As  this  is  a  surplus  over  and  above  the  wants  of  the  population, 
the  value  of  this  industry  in  the  near  future,  as  a  source  of  meat 
supply  from  lands  comparatively  valueless  for  agricultural 
purposes,  becomes  apparent. 

The  present  herds  are  nearly  all  located  on  the  western  coast 
from  the  Kuskokwim  to  Point  Barrow,  a  distance  of  some 
800  miles,  but  in  the  near  future  the  industry  will  extend  over 
the  entire  Alaska  Peninsula. 

Those  best  acquainted  with  surrounding  conditions  estimate 
that  Alaska  has  grazing  grounds,  sufficient  to  support  10,000,000 
to  20,000,000  head  of  stock. 

The  first  important  shipment  was  made  in  1911 — 185  car- 
casses, 18,750  pounds.  In  October,  1920,  Alaska  exported 
98,689  pounds,  valued  at  $23,690. 

The  chief  of  the  Biological  Survey  predicts,  "A  million  rein- 
deer grown  by  natives  and  white  herders  will  soon  convert 
Alaska  into  a  vast  meat -producing  Territory." 

Reindeer  fairs  are  held  at  which  discussions  take  place  as 
to  the  best  way  of  slaughtering  and  dressing,  etc. 

There  are  contests  in  lassoing  deer,  driving  wild  deer,  pul- 
ling loads  of  various  weights,  in  sled  lashing,  racing,  and  so  on, 
and  there  are  also  exhibits  of  harness,  sleds,  and  fur  clothing. 

With  the  meat  of  the  reindeer  for  food,  the  skin  for  clothing, 
harness  and  leather,  the  sinew  for  thread,  the  horns  for  knife 
handles,  and  the  hair  for  mattresses,  the  reindeer  meets  almost 
all  the  needs  of  the  people. 

Both  the  Boy  Scouts  and  the  Camp  Fire  Girls  have  branches 
among  the  natives. 

GAME  REGULATIONS 

All  persons  going  into  Alaska  and  Yukon  with  the  intention 
of  shooting  wild  game  of  any  kind  —  from  the  moose  to 
the  migratory  bird — are  cautioned  to  secure  copies  of  and 
acquaint  themselves  with  the  game  laws  of  the  various 
regions  in  these  territories. 


72     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Kenai  Peninsu 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA   AND   YUKON       73 


74     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


*$fiifV  '"' 

: 


Top:  Fairbanks.      Middle:   Fairbanks  Public  School 
Bottom:   Church,  Immaculate  Conception,  Fairbanks 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      75 

WILD   GAME  ANIMALS 

Moose.  This  is  the  largest  member  of  the  deer  family  in  the 
world.  Moose  are  generally  distributed  throughout  the  tim- 
bered region  except  in  the  southeastern  coast  region.  During 
August  to  October  they  inhabit  the  draws  and  valleys,  the 
latter  part  of  August  being  the  mating  season. 

From  December  ist  to  25th  they  migrate  to  the  willow 
and  lake  districts.  The  bull  separates  from  the  cows  about 
the  end  of  January,  taking  to  the  hills  and  rougher  country. 

The  cows  remain  in  the  lake  and  willow  country  until  May 
when  the  birth  of  the  calves  takes  place. 

Caribou  inhabit  the  treeless  and  semi-treeless  parts  of 
Alaska  including  the  bare  mountain  ridges  of  the  interior  and 
the  open  rolling  tundras  of  the  coast  from  the  Arctic  to  the 
Pacific  side  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  where  the  so-called  rein- 
deer.moss,  on  which  they  largely  feed,  is  most  abundant. 

They  scatter  widely  in  summer  and  in  the  fall  collect  in 
large  herds,  but  at  all  times  roam  widely.  The  great  herds 
in  the  fall  of  the  year  perform  a  more  or  less  regular  move- 
ment in  the  nature  of  a  migration,  and  within  certain  limits 
their  course  of  travel  and  times  of  arrival  at  given  points  are 
well  known. 

Mountain  sheep  of  Alaska  are  practically  pure  white,  some- 
what smaller,  and  with  more  slender  horns  than  the  big  horn 
or  Rocky  Mountain  sheep.  They  prefer  the  higher  altitudes  and 
are  usually  most  abundant  about  the  main  divides  and  the  high- 
er or  more  central  peaks. 

Large  numbers  live  on  the  Kenai  Peninsula,  the  Endicott 
Mountains,  where  they  range  from  coast  to  coast,  and  on  the 
summits  adjacent  to  Mount  McKinley. 

Mountain  goat.  This  bold  climber  is  confined  in  its  range 
to  the  mountains  of  the  Southeast  Archipelago  and  the  adjacent 
mainland,  and  the  high  coastal  peaks,  as  far  west  as  the  western 
shores  of  Prince  William  Sound,  or  in  other  words,  those  regions 
not  inhabited  by  the  mountain  sheep. 

Strictly  speaking,  it  is  not  a  goat  at  all,  having  many 
peculiarities  common  to  the  antelope,  and  finds  its  nearest 
relation  among  the  chamois  of  Europe  and  some  little  known 
Asiatic  forms. 

Deer.  Only  in  the  southeastern  coast  region  are  deer  abun- 
dant, and  in  that  district  only  one  species,  a  small  variety  of  the 
Blacktail,  averaging  not  more  than  100  pounds  in  weight.  It 
ranges  farther  north  than  any  other  American  deer,  and  from 
sea  level  to  timber  line. 


7o      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

BEARS 

Alaska  has  no  rival  in  respect  to  the  number  and  variety  of  bears;  no 
less  than  thirteen  varieties  being  recognized  by  scientists.  They  belong, 
however,  to  only  four  general  types  —  brown,  grizzly,  black,  and  polar. 

Bears  generally  speaking  are  omnivorous  feeders.  In  berry  time  they 
largely  subsist  on  berries,  but  according  to  season  or  locality  they  eat 
salmon,  shellfish,  kelp,  and  seaweed,  squirrel,  mice,  roots,  etc.  The  griz- 
zlies however  are  very  destructive  and  live  on  caribou  and  moose. 

Brown.  These  are  the  most  numerous  and  are  more  nearly 
related  to  those  of  the  old  world  than  to  the  other  American 


Angular  Gold-Bearing  Gravels  on  Grass  Gulch 

species.  Huge  in  size  and  larger  than  any  others  except  the 
polar  bear,  they  command  a  reputation  for  ferocity  equal  to 
that  of  the  grizzlies. 

The  brown  is  found  on  Kodiak  Island,  Alaska  Peninsula, 
in  the  Yakutat  region,  and  on  Baranof  and  Admiralty  Islands. 
They  appear  to  have  attained  their  maximum  size  on  the 
mainland  and  Kodiak  Island  and  are  more  commonly  known 
as  the  Kodiak. 

Glacier.  The  glacier  bear  belongs  to  the  family  of  grizzlies, 
is  known  as  "Blue,"  is  not  shy,  and  is  found  all  through  the 
Alaska  Range. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      77 


Grizzly.  The  grizzly  bears  are  generally  distributed  through 
the  Kenai  Peninsula  and  adjacent  regions,  but  most  abundant 
in  the  Endicott  Range  on  the  north,  and  the  Nusotin  and 
Mount  McKinley  ranges  in  Central  Alaska.  They  spend  the 
summers  chiefly  above  arid  near  the  timber  line  and  roam 
largely. 

Black.  These  are  fairly  common  all  through  Alaska.  They 
are  shy. 

Polar.  These  huge  fellows  are  the  largest  of  all  and  not 
found  south  of  the  Arctic  Circle. 

Walrus.  The  walrus  is  now  found  occasionally  south  of  the 
Arctic  Circle.  Those  which  formerly  herded  on  Bristol  Bay 
have  been  practically  exterminated. 

Fur  Farming.  Fur  farming  in  Alaska  gives  promise  of 
becoming  an  important  industry.  Efforts  along  this  line 
have  usually  been  limited  to  fox  propagation,  but  reports  have 
been  received  of  attempts  to  raise  marten,  mink  and  other 
animals.  Records  are  very  incomplete  in  regard  to  fur-farm- 
ing operations  in  Alaska. 

The  Department  of  Commerce  has  leased  the  following 
named  islands  off  the  coast  of  Alaska  for  fur-farming 
operations:  Chirikof,  Little  Koniuji,  Middleton,  Pearl  and 
Simeonof. 

GAME  IN   MOUNT   McKINLEY  REGION 

To  the  sportsman  who  is  seeking  large  game  the  slopes  of 
the  Alaska  Range  furnish  an  attractive  field.  Nowhere  else 
in  Alaska  are  the  four  largest  game  animals — the  bear,  the 
sheep,  the  moose,  and  the  caribou — found  in  such  numbers 
and  in  such  close  proximity  as  in  this  region.  The  very  reason 
of  this  abundance  lies  in  the  inaccessibility  of  the  field,  which 
must  deter  most  sportsmen. 

It  cannot  be  reached  without  the  organization  of  an 
expedition  prepared  for  a  campaign  of  at  least  two  or  three 
months  which  makes  it  beyond  the  purse  and  time  of  the 
average  hunter. 

There  are  two  possible  routes  of  approach  to  the  Alaska 
Range.  One  is  from  Seward  and  one  from  Anchorage;  both 
by  U.  S.  Governmsnt  R.  R. 

The  convenient  route  to  the  Alaska  Range  is  via  the  U.  S. 
Governmsnt  R.  R.  from  Seward  or  Anchorage.  Parties  can 
leave  the  train  at  any  one  of  a  number  of  stations  and 
approach  the  range  at  different  angles. 

Brown  bear  can  probably  be  found  in  a  few  days'  trip  from 
the  coast,  and  as  the  journey  is  continued  toward  one  of  the 


78    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

passes  at  the  hea'd  of  the  Skwentna  drainage,  moose  will  be 
met.  Sheep  will  be  found  in  the  high  range,  beyond  which 
lies  the  caribou  country,  which,  under  the  most  favorable 
conditions,  requires  at  least  a  month's  journey  from  Beluga. 

The  second  route  of  approach  is  from  some  point  on  the 
Tanana  River,  which  can  be  reached  by  steamer  either  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  by  the  middle  of  July,  or  by  way  of 
the  White  Pass  Railway  and  steamer  down  the  Yukon  by 
about  June  20  to  July  i. 

Landing  can  best  be  made  at  Nenana.  The  mountains 
can  be  reached  in  a  few  hours'  travel  south  on  the  U.  S. 
Government  R.  R. 

Another  route  would  be  up  the  Kantishna  River  to  Roose- 
velt, thence  by  U.  S.  Governmsnt  R.  R.  to  the  foothills. 
This  would  require  the  chartering  of  a  special  boat,  and  hence 
would  be  far  more  expensive.  If  the  route  up  the  Tanana 
be  chosen,  pack  horses  might  be  procured  at  Fairbanks,  but 
this  is  by  no  means  certain. 

A  hunting  trip  could  be  made  into  the  Susitna  region  by 
taking  a  steamer  up  Susitna  River  to  the  limit  of  navigation, 
and  then  proceeding  with  small  boats  up  the  watercourses  or, 
better  still,  overland  with  horses. 

The  expense  and  duration  of  the  trip  are  likely  to  be 
comparable  with  those  into  the  Alaska  Range  described 
above.  Matanuska  Valley  is  now  traversed  by  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment R.  R.,  placing  the  hunter  immediately  in  region  of 
game  animals  and  fish.  A  few  weeks'  trip  in  this  valley 
would  probably  suffice  for  some  good  sheep  and  bear  hunting 
as  well  as  excellent  trout  fishing. 

The  northern  part  of  Kenai  Peninsula  is,  to  the  non-resident 
hunters,  one  of  the  most  accessible  of  the  big-game  regions  of 
Alaska.  Here  a  licensed  guide  is  required,  who  can  be  hired 
at  Seward.  Hunting  camps  for  sheep,  moose,  and  bear  can 
be  pitched  within  striking  distance  of  the  U.  S.  Government 
R.  R.  and  thus  communication  can  be  kept  up  with  mail 
and  telegraph. 

Anchorage  furnishes  a  good  and  convenient  outfitting  point 
for  the  big-game  hunter  going  north  of  Kenai  Peninsula, 
such  as  the  Matanuska  country  or  Alaska  Range  and  for 
those  who  are  going  via  U.  S.  Government  R.  R.  to  McKinley 
National  Park. 

In  the  mountains  there  are  sheep,  caribou,  glacier  bear,  and 
others  of  the  grizzlies,  which  attain  an  enormous  size;  also 
ptarmigan  of  the  grouse  family.  On  the  plateau  and  near 
foothills  there  are  larger  bands  of  caribou,  glacier,  grizzly  and 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        79 

black  bears,  ptarmigan,  and  occasionally  a  covey  of  prairie 
chickens,  known  as  pintail  grouse.  Proceeding  from  the 
mountains  and  plateau-land,  sparsely  timbered  country, 
covered  here  and  there  with  black  spruce,  is  reached  and  in 
this  region  are  moose,  black  bear,  occasionally  a  grizzly, 
pintail  and  blue  grouse  of  the  small  variety,  and  known, 
in  that  country,  as  the  fool-hen.  In  the  river  bottoms  are 
partridges,  locally  called  willow  grouse  because  of  feeding  on 
the  willow  buds. 

Generally  distributed  over  this  whole  region  are  beaver, 
otter,  mink,  and  muskrat;  black,  silver,  cross  and  red  foxes; 
lynx,  wolverine,  marten  and  ermine. 

Fishing.  All  clear  water  streams  contain  grayling  and  trout 
of  different  varieties  in  large  numbers.  In  Wonder  Lake  in 
the  Kantishna  country  trout  have  been  caught  weighing 
twenty-five  pounds. 

In  Lake  Minchumina,  shovelnose  pike  are  very  numerous, 
the  writer  having  seen  56  caught  with  one  trolling  hook  in 
four  hours'  time,  their  weight  ranging  from  10  to  30  pounds 
each.  White  fish  of  the  very  finest  are  taken  here  with 
nets. 

This  particular  lake  is  the  home  of  the  moose  and  one  of 
the  greatest  water  fowl  regions  of  the  North.  In  this  locality 


Tundra  in  Spring  Bloom  Near  Nome 


80     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

the  migrating  birds  nest  in  the  thousands  of  lakes  and  have 
their  young  undisturbed  by  man.  Beginning  about  the  2oth 
of  April,  the  migrating  birds  arrive  in  such  numbers  that  the 
noise  made  by  their  calling  is  almost  deafening. 

Ducks  of  all  varieties,  geese,  crane,  swan,  snipe,  and  shore 
birds  are  to  be  had  here.  In  August  the  young  ducks  come 
out  into  the  lake. 

Large  sections  are  covered  thickly  by  them  and  they  hardly 
rise  when  a  boat  passes  through  the  mass.  The  lake  looks  as 
though  it  were  covered  with  a  blanket  of  water  fowl.  The 
same  conditions  exist  in  Lake  Minto  region. 

In  the  country  surrounding  Lake  Minchumina  the  beaver 
is  at  home.  In  the  mountains  and  the  near  foothills  the  trav- 
eler will  find  good  footing,  and  can  always  select  routes  that 
will  carry  him  along  the  low  divides,  where,  he  will  find  broken 
shale  and  hard  footing,  and  the  moss  if  any  will  be  white, 
caribou  moss,  which  does  not  bother  a  person  as  do  the  heavier 
mosses  found  in  the  low,  flat  country. 

Climbing  can  be  made  with  gradual  grades  without  tiring. 
In  the  winter  in  the  mountains  snow  shoes  are  seldom 
used.  The  winds  that  blow  at  times  drive  the  snow  ofl 
the  ridges  and  sides  into  the  canyons  and  other  depressions, 
where  with  the  cold  it  becomes  hard  enough  to  walk  on.  It  is 
thus  that  snow  slides  are  formed. 

A  peculiar  thing  is  that  on  a  cold  day  on  leaving  camp  and 
climbing  up  on  the  mountains,  the  higher  the  altitude,  the 
warmer  it  really  is.  The  writer  has  in  mind  a  time  when 
reaching  the  ridges,  on  a  sheep  hunt,  the  "parkay"  and 
sweater  had  to  be  taken  off  and  packed,  to  avoid  perspiring 
and,  on  coming  down,  put  on  again. 

On  the  plateau  which  extends  along  the  foot  of  the  Alaska 
Range  are  "  nigger  heads"  lying  on  a  solid  foundation  of  gravel. 
They  are  grass  clumps  which  attain  as  high  as  three  feet, 
never  seeming  to  rot  but  increasing  in  size  each  year.  They 
grow  very  close  to  each  other  and  are  a  temptation  to  the 
stranger  to  step  from  one  to  another;  but  he  soon  experiences 
their  shaky  uncertainty  and  picks  his  way  between  them. 
This  with  the  heavy  moss  (which  is  wet  and  of  a  deep  growth) 
causes  great  fatigue.  Therefore  avoid  the  lower  levels  away 
from  the  mountains,  at  least  during  the  summer.  Select  the 
sections  known  to  have  the  minimum  of  niggerheads. 

Kantishna  City,  located  in  the  heart  of  the  Kantishna  mining 
district,  where  the  traveler  can  see  the  gold  being  taken  from 
the  ground  in  various  ways,  is  but  a  few  miles  away,  and  he 
who  avails  himself  of  the  accommodations  to  be  had  at  the  road- 
house  there  can  make  trips  of  two  and  three  days'  duration, 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    si 

by  the  use  of  a  pack  animal  or  two,  and  visit  all  of  the  country 
around,  the  traveling  being  very  good  from  this  point. 

To  arrive  at  Kantishna  in  the  summer  a  person  should  make 
arrangements  with  some  of  the  numerous  gas  boats  going  to 
Roosevelt  on  the  Kantishna  River  from  Nenana. 

From  there  it  is  only  30  miles  over  a  road  that  the 
Government  has  constructed  to  Kantishna  City.  In  this 
section  a  person  will  find  everything  that  can  be  had  in  the 
interior  in  the  line  of  game,  fishing,  and  scenery. 

People  wishing  to  go  to  Lake  Minchumina  in  the  summer 
can  charter  gas  boats  and,  taking  a  canoe  with  them,  are  able 
to  leave  Nenana  and  go  into  the  lake  in  about  four  days  at  the 
most. 

McKINLEY  NATIONAL  PARK 

This,  the  greatest  of  U.  S.  Government  reserves,  crowns  the 
higher  reaches  of  the  Alaska  range,  one  of  the  most  prominent 
chains  of  this  country.  Its  boundaries  extend  from  the  base 
of  Mount  Russell  in  a  northeasterly  direction  approximately 
no  miles;  thence  due  north  20  miles,  west  40  miles,  south 
20  miles,  southwest  65  miles,  and  southeast  30  miles  to  point 
of  beginning.  The  area  is  about  2,645  square  miles,  or  1,692,- 
800  acres. 

The  north  and  west  fronts  of  this  range  slope  down  abruptly 
to  the  Piedmont  plateau  which  stands  at  2,500  feet  above  sea 
level.  The  south  and  east  fronts  descend  to  the  Susitna  low- 
lands and  the  Copper  River  plateau,  these  rising  about  3,000 
feet  above  sea  level.  This  mass  of  rugged  mountains  is  both 
higher  and  broader  than  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  of  greater  relief 
and  extent  than  the  Alps  of  Europe. 

There  is  a  well  defined  crest  line  which  varies  from  6,000 
to  8,000  feet  in  height  and  is  traceable  with  but  few  breaks 
for  several  hundred  miles.  Numerous  peaks  tower  above 
this  sky-line,  the  most  prominent  being  Mount  McKinley, 
20,300  feet;  Mount  Foraker,  17,000  feet,  Mount  Hunter, 
14,900  feet,  and  Mount  Russell,  11,350  feet;  the  first  two 
named  being  within  the  park;  Mount  Hunter  and  Mount 
Russell  just  outside  the  southern  limits.  Mount  McKinley 
is  distinguished  not  only  for  being  the  highest  mountain 
on  the  North  American  continent,  but  also  in  that  it  has 
the  most  abrupt  rise  on  its  northern  face  of  any  mountain 
in  the  world.  From  its  base  on  the  Piedmont  plateau  this 
rise  is  about  16,000  feet.  At  its  base  are  the  glaciers  which 
feed  the  Kantishna  River. 

Both  slopes  of  Mount  McKinley  and  Mount  Foraker  are  ice 
covered.  There  is  a  striking  contrast,  however,  in  the  extent 


82     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

of  the  glaciers  between  those  on  the  coastal  slope  with  its 
abundant  precipitation  and  the  inland  slope  where  drier  con- 
ditions prevail.  On  the  former  some  of  the  glaciers  discharge 
at  tide-water  and  the  fronts  of  many  are  only  200  to  800  feet 
above  sea  level.  No  glacier  of  the  inland  slope  reaches  a  lower 
altitude  than  2,500  feet. 

Climatically  considered,  the  Mount  McKinley  region  is 
divided  into  two  general  provinces  separated  by  the  Alaska 
range.  On  the  inland  side  the  climate  is  characterized  by 
short,  comparatively  warm  summers  and  long,  cold  winters, 
with  a  low  precipitation.  The  area  draining  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean  enjoys  more  equable  conditions,  the  summers  being 
longer  and  cooler,  and  the  winters  warmer  than  in  the  interior, 
while  the  precipitation  is  very  much  greater.  The  lower  levels 
of  this  region  are  the  important  breeding  grounds,  and  some 
of  the  permanent  ranges  of  the  non-migratory  herds  of  wood- 
land caribou,  the  white  sheep,  and  the  giant  moose. 

The  snowfall  in  the  Mount  McKinley  country  ranges  from 
two  to  four  feet  with  very  fine  flakes  on  the  north  side,  to 
very  heavy  fall  on  south  slope,  and  as  soon  as  the  snow  falls 
in  the  early  winter  the  trails  are  traveled,  and  there  is  enough 
travel  on  the  principal  ones  north  of  the  range  to  keep  them 
well  opened.  It  is  only  after  an  extra  heavy  snowstorm  that 
snow  shoes  are  necessary  on  the  trail,  but  it  is  not  such  hard 
''mushing"  as  the  old  beaten  trail  is  underneath.  South  of 
the  range  snow  shoes  are  needed  till  June. 

About  the  month  of  February,  and  from  then  on,  the  trails 
are  the  best  until  the  latter  part  of  April,  having  been  built 
up  by  travel  until  they  stand  higher  than  the  surrounding 
snow. 

It  is  at  this  time  that  the  traveler  will  most  enjoy  his  dog- 
team  transportation;  the  days  are  lengthening,  the  sun  hovering 
to  the  extent  that,  even  though  a  cold  night  is  had,  the  days 
will  warm  up  and  there  is  usually  clear,  bright  weather. 

WILD   GAME   BIRDS 

Alaska  is  the  great  breeding  ground  of  the  water  birds  which 
annually  migrate  southerly  in  winter.  These  include  ducks, 
geese,  swans,  snipe,  curlew  sandpipers,  and  a  host  of  others 
which  all  resort  in  thousands  to  the  open  tundras  and  valleys 
of  the  far  north  during  the  breeding  season.  Three  varieties 
of  ptarmigan  inhabit  the  higher  mountain  tops  of  the  coast 
and  interior,  and  the  tundras  of  Bering  Sea  and  Arctic  Coast, 
including  all  the  Aleutian  Islands.  Five  species  of  grouse 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     83 

are  timber  birds.  Countless  numbers  of  gulls  and  other  sea- 
birds  breed  on  the  tundras  of  Bering  Sea  and  rocky  coast  islands. 
The  Government  has  set  aside  seven  bird  reserves  in  Alaska, 
the  largest,  between  the  mouths  of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskokwim 
Rivers.  The  others  are  small  isolated  islands — St.  Matthew, 
Hall  and  Pinnacle,  Walrus,  Otter,  and  Bogoslof  in  Bering  Sea; 
Fire,  Chisik,  and  Egg  in  Cook  Inlet;  St.  Lazaria  in  Sitka  Sound. 

WILD  FLOWERS 

"Alaska  is  a  land  of  flowers  and  ferns  and  mosses.  It  is 
probable  that  more  than  2,000  species  of  flowering  plants 
and  shrubs  find  a  home  within  its  borders,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
hundreds  of  less  conspicuous  ferns  and  grasses,  of  which  latter 
there  are  said  to  be  more  than  40  varieties. 

"Many  of  these  are  species  common  to  circumpolar  regions, 
and  some  of  them  were  distributed  by  the  Russian  botanists 
a  hundred  years  ago,  so  that  not  a  few  are  the  common 
garden  flowers  of  the  States.  Red  and  yellow  columbines, 
blue  lipines,  aconite  or  monkshood  and  larkspur  give  color 
to  the  forest  borders;  yellow  and  white  water  lilies  keep 
company  with  purple  flags  in  the  marshy  grounds;  the 
tundras  are  gay  with  dandelions,  buttercups  and  daisies, 
and  the  hillsides  are  covered  with  acres  of  blue  forget-me- 
nots,  white  heather  and  pink  roses  by  the  hundreds  of 
thousands. 

"The  fireweed  flaunts  its  magenta  blossoms  everywhere, 
while  the  huge  leaves  of  the  skunk  cabbage  and  devils  club 
guard  the  borders  of  every  runlet  in  company  with  the  riotous 
salmon  berries.  These  for  the  valleys.  As  you  climb  the 
mountains,  gentians,  saxifrage  and  lady  slippers,  cyclamens 
and  asters,  and  hundreds  of  others  in  all  colors  and  names 
known  only  to  the  botanists,  help  to  paint  the  picture.  The  • 
white  daisies  of  the  Tanana  rival  the  Shasta  daisies  of 
Burbank  in  size  and  purity  of  color;  violets,  both  blue  and 
yellow,  are  among  the  early  blossoms,  along  with  the  anem- 
ones, and  the  little  dwarf  dogwood  or  bunch  berry  in  company 
with  the  delicate  wood  fern  carpets  the  open  wood  with  vivid 
green  and  silver  stars,  as  it  does  the  forests  of  Washington. 

"This  is  no  land  of  perpetual  ice  and  snow.  Glaciers  there 
are,  as  in  Switzerland,  but  the  flowers  blossom  at  their  very 
feet,  and  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  gather  a  hundred  varieties  of 
flowers  without  walking  more  than  a  mile  from  home,  unless  it 
be  in  the  farthest  north,  and  even  there  Flora's  footsteps 
have  left  some  of  her  treasures,  be  they  nothing  more  than  the 
silken  white  seed  pods  of  the  rushes,  flecking  the  tundra  like 
snow  drops. 


84    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

"To  the  eastern  tourist,  with  his  or  her  preconceived  ideas, 
it  is  a  constant  source  of  surprise  to  see  pansies,  marigolds, 
poppies  and  nasturtiums  flourishing  on  what  was  supposed 
to  be  a  frozen  wilderness,  while  the  rapidity  with  which  they 
grow  and  become  acclimated  is  astonishing. 

"The  California  poppy,  with  its  blazing  orange,  native 
though  it  be  of  warmer  climes,  seeds  itself  as  far  north  as 
Fairbanks  and  Dawson,  and  the  weeds  of  the  states  have 
not  been  slow  to  follow  its  example."  —From  "Alaska," 
published  by  Alaska  Bureau,  Seattle  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

THE  ALASKA  DOG  TEAM 

The  dog  team  will  always  be  a  part,  in  fact,  the  greatest 
factor  in  transportation  in  the  northern  country.  In  winter  as 
soon  as  a  person  leaves  the  railroad,  or  the  automobile  roads, 
he  is  in  need  of  the  dog  team  as  much  as  before  the  coming  of 
railroads,  automobiles,  or  the  horse.  Many  times  when  the 
country  is  struck  with  storms  all  other  means  for  transportation 
are  tied  up. 

Traveling  in  the  interior  after  October  i5th  is  by  dog  team, 
which  can  be  hired  for  about  $25  per  day,  this  amount  covering 
charge  for  driver  and  his  board,  and  food  for  the  dogs  en 
route.  The  equipment  includes  dogs,  harness,  sled,  kettles, 
and  pans  for  feeding;  snow  shoes  for  driver,  robe  for  sled,  tar- 
paulin and  charcoal  foot-warmer,  in  fact,  all  the  traveler  needs 
for  his  comfort  except  his  personal  clothing.  Such  a  team 
should,  when  trails  are  well  broken,  make  from  25  to  35  miles 
a  day  and  haul  600  or  700  pounds. 

A  team  may  consist  of  from  5  to  25  dogs,  7  being  a 
sufficient  number  for  the  average  purpose.  When  undertaking 
a  journey  the  traveler  should  see  for  himself  that  the  follow- 
ing emergency  articles  are  in  the  sled  bag: 

Dog  moccasins  for  use  should  sore  feet  develop;  a  bottle 
of  turpentine;  a  can  of  vaseline,  a  large  bottle  of  castor  oil, 
and  some  powdered  areca  nut;  also  a  can  containing  woolen 
cloths  well  soaked  in  kerosene,  these  for  use  should  the 
traveler  get  wet  feet. 

In  such  an  event,  get  to  timber  quick  and  build  a  fire, 
using  the  rags  for  starting  the  fire.  Put  in  the  sled-bag  a 
piece  of  gunnysack  to  dry  off  the  dogs'  feet  instantly  when 
they  get  wet.  This  is  to  prevent  freezing,  the  possible 
loss  of  nails  and  the  skin  from  ball  of  foot;  maiming  them  for 
the  season  at  least,  and  causing  tender  feet  permanently. 

Rivers  running  in  the  direction  of  the  trail  are  used  as  part 
of  the  route,  and  it  is  by  driving  into  an  unexpected  "overflow " 
that  there  is  danger  to  both  men  and  dogs  from  getting  wet. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    85 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Ha 

Fur-Seals,  St.  Paul  Island,  Bering  Sea 

An  "overflow"  is  water  flowing  on  top  of  ice,  and  easily  seen 
in  time  to  be  avoided,  except  when  absorbed  by  falling  snow 
and  then  presenting  the  appearance  of  snow  only. 

A  warning  to  those  who  may  travel  in  the  North :  A  white 
man's  team  will  not  bother  or  bite  a  person,  neither  will  an 
Indian's  team  bother  Indians;  but  a  white  person  should  always 
keep  clear  of  the  natives'  dogs  and  vice  versa,  especially  where 
the  teams  are  not  used  to  towns,  and  where  the  Indian  teams  do 
not  see  much  of  the  white  man.  This  holds  good  when  ap- 
proaching an  Indian  camp  where  dogs  are  liable  to  be  loose. 
If  attacked,  never  show  fear;  put  on  a  bold  front.  Do  not 
turn  your  back  and  run,  for  such  dogs  are  cowards  like  their 
wild  ancestor,  the  wolf. 

A  driver  must  learn  the  traits  of  his  dogs,  each  one  of  which 
has  his  peculiarities.  Some  will  shirk  until  properly  looked 
after  by  the  driver;  others  are  high  strung  and  easily  excited, 
and  at  times  will  try  to  pull  the  whole  load.  Try  to  match 
teams  of  dogs  as  to  weight,  gait,  and  speed. 

As  little  punishment  as  possible  should  be  administered  while 
driving  a  team.  Cheer  them  along  and  if  any  of  them  cannot 
of  will  not  keep  up  and  work  without  beating  and  nagging, 
thereby  demoralizing  the  whole  team,  get  rid  of  them. 

Purchasing  dog  teams.  Good  work  dogs  can  be  bought  in 
the  interior  at  from  $20  to  $40.  The  same  care  in  buying 
should  be  observed  as  in  purchasing  horses  in  the  States  and  some 
one  who  knows  the  dog  as  a  work  animal  is  indispensable  to  the 
transaction.  All  dogs  should  be  tried  out  before  purchase; 
as  it  is  not  always  the  fine  looking  dog  that  is  the  worker. 


86     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

The  lead  dog  is  half  the  team,  and  securing  a  good  leader 
is  a  most  important  proposition.  The  leader  guides  the 
team  at  the  driver's  command  of  "gee,"  "haw,"  "whoa,"  or 
"mush."  One  that  has  had  proper  training  will  respond  to 
these  commands  as  fast  as  spoken  (regardless  of  any  excitement 
on  the  part  of  the  others  of  the  team  "who  know  nothing  but 
to  pull  and  work")  and  will  always  obey.  A  properly  trained 
leader  will  not  pull  on  the  load  but  be  in  readiness  to  use  his 
strength  to  guide  the  team. 

Dogs  from  two  to  six  years  old,  weighing  80  to  100  pounds, 
are  best  for  general  work.  They  will  not  break  through  a  new 
snowshoe  trail  which  heavy  dogs  will  do.  When  fifteen  light- 
weight dogs  are  hitched  to  a  sleigh  (sleighs  range  from  the  racer 
of  8  feet  to  those  of  16  or  more  feet)  they  are  faster  and  better 
for  speed  with  a  light  load. 

Buy  only  dogs  whose  tails  have  not  been  cut.  The  large, 
bushy  tail  is  necessary  to  the  dog  while  resting,  to  keep  warm 
the  parts  that  are  not  covered  by  the  woolly  growth  beneath  the 
hair.  If  dogs  are  properly  cared  for,  they  carry  their  tails 
high  over  their  backs  and  do  not  interfere  with  the  dogs  hitched 
behind  them. 

Where  better  accommodations  can  not  be  had,  the  native 
dog  will  curl  up  on  a  bit  of  brush  and  with  his  nose  buried  in  his 
bushy  tail  put  in  a  good  night's  rest. 

In  winter,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  dogs'  nails  do  not  pro- 
trude too  long  and  they  should  be  looked  after  regularly. 

Some  dogs  have  large  quantities  of  hair  between  the  toes, 
causing  the  feet  to  ball  up  in  soft  weather  and  often  causing 
freezing  of  the  feet.  The  driver  should  remove  this  surplus 
hair  by  singeing. 

Care  of  dogs.  The  native  dog  knows  what  work  is,  and 
when  well  treated  likes  it.  He  is  given  one  meal  a  day,  con- 
sisting of  either  dried  salmon,  or  rice  or  corn  meal  cooked  with 
tallow  or  bacon  and  dried  salmon,  cooked  feed  being  considered 
the  best  in  the  long  run. 

When  fed  dried  salmon  they  should  be  watered  within  an 
hour  after  feeding,  and  should  always  be  well  watered  in  the 
morning  before  a  start  is  made,  first  taking  the  chill  out  of  the 
water.  When  having  used  dried  feed,  do  not  shift  to  cooked 
rations.  A  team  that  is  not  watered  before  starting  will  be 
stopping  all  along  the  route  snatching  snow;  will  refuse  to 
drink  water  at  the  proper  time,  and  with  the  snow  habit  the 
entire  team  will  not  all  be  pulling  at  any  one  time. 

Good  dogs  kept  tied  up  and  properly  cared  for  become  almost 
unmanageable  when  they  see  the  sled  and  harness  being  put 
in  readiness  for  a  trip.  It  is  then  necessary  to  have  a  stout 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON        87 


Looking  down  Gastineau  Channel  from  Mt.  Juneau 


rope  (long  enough  to  connect  with  the  main  tow-line)  tied  to 
some  object  that  will  hold  the  team  until  all  are  in  harness 
and  everything  is  ready  to  go.  This  rope  must  be  so  fastened 
that  it  can  easily  be  released.  There  is  need  for  a  very  strong 
brake  for  the  ride  will  be  fast  until  the  team  settles  down  to 
steady  work  for  the  day. 

In  summer  when  the  snow  is  gone  dogs  are  placed  in  fish 
camps  where  salmon  is  being  caught  and  dried  for  dog  feed  for 
the  coming  winter  for  which  the  charge  is  from  $4  to  $5  per 
month  for  each  dog,  the  feed  being  the  offal  from  the  salmon. 
This  is  cooked  and  keeps  them  in  good  condition. 

Dogs  should  be  kept  where  there  is  shelter  from  the  rains 
and  the  hot  sun.  They  have  a  heavy  wool  under  their  hair, 
and  this  becoming  wet  either  from  rain  or  sweat  causes  them 
to  steam  and  become  sick.  Combing  the  dogs  in  June,  July, 
and  August,  at  which  period  the  dogs  generally  shed  their  old 
wool,  is  the  proper  thing  to  do. 

Dogs  should  always  be  left  so  they  can  reach  water  during 
the  summer.  A  high  bank  of  a  river  where  the  wind  can 
strike  them  is  the  best  place  for  dogs.  Here  they  have  some 
rest  from  the  mosquitoes  who  punish  them  severely. 

Dogs  are  often  used  as  pack  animals  in  summer  by  pros- 
pectors and  by  those  living  in  the  hills.  The  average  pack  dog 
will  pack  from  20  to  40  pounds. 

A  prospector  who  has  his  dogs  with  him  and  has  to  care  for 
them  himself  can  make  use  of  them  to  good  advantage.  Five 


88     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copper  River  '. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


89 


90     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

dogs  will  pack  enough  at  one  time  to  keep  a  prospector  going 
for  a  month  along  with  the  wild  meat  that  he  kills. 

Another  service  the  dog  will  render  in  the  summer  is  to  assist 
his  master  to  "line"  his  boat  up  rivers  which  have  long  gravel 
bars.  In  this  they  are  of  great  assistance  and  will  line  a  boat 
all  day.  Their  strength  is  not  to  be  overlooked.  On  a  sled 
in  winter  he  pulls  more  than  a  man  can. 

SUGGESTIONS   FOR   SPORTSMEN 

Outfitting.  The  hunter  going  to  Alaska  will  simplify  his 
pr.parations  and  reduce  his  traveling  expenses  and  perplexities 
to  the  minimum  by  waiting  to  purchase  his  outfit  until  he  shall 
have  arrived  at  the  particular  section  in  which  he  intends  to 
hunt.  Of  course,  he  will  take  along  his  favorite  rods  and  the 
right  guns  and  ammunition  for  the  various  game,  big  and  little , 
and  have  them  with  him,  and  he  should  take  light  wading  boots, 
and  in  summer  have  rubber  packs  for  side-trips, — these  latter 
to  be  purchased  in  Alaska. 

It  must  be  kept  in  mind  that  Alaska  has  five  different 
climatic  divisions,  varying  from  the  frigid  zone  on  the  north  to 
the  temperate  region  on  the  south ;  from  a  cold  dry  climate  in 
the  interior,  to  a  very  wet  and  moderate  climate  on  the  south 
coast,  where  the  thermometer  rarely  registers  zero.  In  these 
several  divisions  the  conditions  vary,  and  the  selection  of 
wearing  apparel,  putting  up  an  outfit,  and  the  transportation 
must  have  special  consideration  for  each  particular  region. 

Complete  outfits  are  to  be  had  at  the  following  named  places : 

Anchorage,  Atlin,  Northern  British  Columbia,  Bethel, 
Chitina,  Circle,  Cordova,  Dawson  (Yukon),  Eagle,  Fairbanks, 
Fort  Yukon,  Iditarod,  Juneau,  Ketchikan,  McGrath,  Nenana, 
Nome,  St.  Michael,  Selkirk,  Seward,  Skagway.  Tanana, 
Valdez,  Whitehorse  (Yukon),  and  Wrangell. 

The  advantages  derived  from  buying  the  equipment  as  sug- 
gested above  are  several.  The  outfitters  at  these  places  know, 
from  long  experience,  the  requirements,  and  have  in  stock 
the  things  most  suitable  in  clothing,  food,  and  other  equipment. 
They  know  how  much  and  how  little  of  each  item;  they  know 
how  to  put  up  an  outfit  in  proper  sequence  for  use  en  route 
and  convenience  in  transportation;  they  will  pack  and  label 
the  principal  things  for  each  day's  use  and  consumption  in 
small  quantities  and  so  selected  that  the  container  may  be 
dispensed  with;  and  they  will  put,  in  a  separate  and  distinctly 
labeled  package,  the  things  that  are  not  to  be  used  during  the 
trips  from  camp  to  camp.  Taking  into  consideration  the 
avoidance  of  over  burdening  with  useless  stuff,  and  the  relief 
from  anxiety  and  delay  when  buying  in  the  States  and  shipping 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     91 


Transportation  Facilities 
The  River  Boat,  the  Railroad  and  the  Dog  Team 


92    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

into  Alaska,  the  prices  charged  are  very  reasonable.  One  of 
the  greatest  benefits  accruing  from  buying  from  the  local 
merchant  is  in  securing  his  interest  and  good  will.  He  becomes 
a  friend  and  adviser;  he  wishes  his  patrons  to  be  satisfied  and 
successful;  he  desires  them  to  come  into  the  Territory  again, 
and  bring  their  friends.  Taking  your  outfit  with  you  into  his 
town  and  ignoring  him,  well,  he 's  just  an  every  day  merchant. 

Hunters  in  Alaska  must  use  guns  specially  adapted  to  the 
game  sought.  For  the  little  coast  deer  on  the  islands  and 
along  the  coast  of  Southeastern  Alaska  small  caliber  such  as 
25-35,  32~4°>  25-20>  30~3°>  are  plenty  large  enough  and  do  not 
destroy  the  meat.  Hunting  large  game,  caribou,  moose,  etc., 
use  a  gun  much  heavier,  of  high  velocity,  and  great  striking 
power,  such  as  7  MM. -8  MM-30-40,  or  one  using  the  1906 
government  ammunition.  The  last  named  is  the  favorite 
among  the  "sour-doughs,"  using  the  needle-point  soft-nose 
and  lever  action  of  the  carbine  size.  Those  intending  to  hunt 
north  of  62°  or  in  any  place  where  the  temperature  will  be 
25°  below  or  lower,  the  gun  should  be  taken  apart  (screw 
spring  and  all),  every  particle  of  gun  grease  removed,  and 
every  piece  wiped  thoroughly  dry.  Then  moisten  the  fingers 
with  three-in-one  or  nitrosolvent  oil,  pass  the  pieces  through 
the  fingers,  making  sure  that  the  oil  is  applied  to  every  part 
lightly  so  that  it  rests  in  the  pores  of  the  steel. 

Never  take  a  gun  into  the  tent  or  cabin,  except  to  leave 
it  there  long  enough  to  become  warm,  when  all  of  the  sweat 
should  be  wiped  off.     Guns  left  in  the  cold  —  never  taken  in  — 
will  remain  in  good  working  order.     When  they  are  finally  put 
away,  clean  thoroughly  and  then  incase  heavily  with  gun  grease. 

In  Southeastern  Alaska,  on  account  of  the  intense  moisture 
and  salt  water,  guns  must  at  all  times  be  in  heavy  gun  grease. 
In  this  region  they  should  be  kept  indoors,  well  wiped,  and 
greased,  and  the  grease  removed  from  the  inside  of  the  barrel 
before  using. 

Never  have  a  load  in  the  barrel  of  a  packed  gun.  There  is 
no  reason  or  excuse  for  so  doing.  It  may  be  caught  in  over- 
head brush,  or  when  used  to  rest  on  as  a  staff;  both  of  which 
a  gun  on  these  trips  is  used  for.  Have  the  butt  of  the  gun 
always  concave,  so  that  the  points  will  dig  and  hold  in  case  of 
slipping.  With  very  little  practice  a  shell  can  be  thrown  into 
the  barrel  while  the  gun  is  coming  to  the  shoulder  —  loaded  and 
cocked  in  one  action.  Always  have  the  magazine  loaded. 

Care  of  ammunition.  Ammunition  left  out  in  very  cold 
weather  should  stand  at  least  twenty-four  hours  near  a  stove  to 
dry  out  before  using.  Steel  taken  from  cold  outdoors  into 
a  warm  atmosphere  will  sweat.  Smokeless  powder  when  damp 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    93 

loses  largely  its  explosive  power,  and  bullets,  propelled  by  such, 
fall  almost  anywhere  after  leaving  the  muzzle  of  the  gun. 
Such  a  condition  occurs  when  shells  are  left  in  the  cold. 

Clothing.  Persons  going  into  Alaska  in  summer  (June  until 
September)  should  wear  the  same  clothes  they  wear  in  the 
States,  taking  along  such  wraps  as  when  making  a  trip  to  Europe 
or  along  the  coast  of  the  United  States.  In  winter  when 
traveling  along  the  southern  coast  take  along  the  same  apparel 
as  worn  in  the  northern  states.  Overcoats  are  worn  by  those 
in  transit  on  the  coast  and  by  the  people  in  the  towns  and 
cities,  but  never  by  the  overland  traveler  who  walks.  Be  sure 
of  protection  against  wet  weather  on  the  coast. 


Sun  at  Mid-day  December  Twenty-Second 

When  traveling  on  extended  trips  across  country  have  three 
two-piece  suits  of  medium- weight  underwear,  and  three  heavy 
woolen  shirts,  or  those  similar  to  soldiers'  heaviest  shirts;  two 
suits  of  knee  trousers,  spiral  leggings,  and  hunting  coats  made 
of  forestry  cloth.  These  are  best  for  summer  and  winter,  and 
are  worn  by  both  men  and  women.  The  trousers  made  of 
brown  duck  cravenetted  can  be  had  at  every  place  in  Alaska. 

Socks  in  winter  should  be  of  heavy  wool  and  reach  to  the 
calf  of  the  leg  and  there  should  be  a  very  liberal  supply.  Mush- 
ing is  hard  on  socks.  Sometimes  two  pairs  are  worn  at  the 
same  time;  laundering  is  irregular. 

Leather  shoes  are  not  worn  in  the  winter  in  the  interior— 
that  is,  away  from  the  south  coast  —  except  in  the  towns  where 
people  are  mostly  indoors.  The  oil  in  leather  absorbs  the  cold. 
Moccasins  are  the  foot-wear  where  the  country  is  cold  enough 
to  prevent  wet  snow,  or  where  the  snow  will  not  melt  on  them 


94    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


from  the  heat  of  the  body.  Moccasins,  lacking  the  oil,  are 
porous  and  wearers  must  avoid  "overflows."  In  cold  weather 
one  who  is  wearing  moccasins  and  steps  into  water  must  get  a 
fire  at  once  and  change.  Therefore  in  traveling  with  dog-team 
it  is  imperative  to  have  a  good  supply  of  woolen  socks  and 
an  extra  pair  of  moccasins,  with  insoles  one-half  inch  thick. 
The  insoles  serve  not  only  as  cushions  but  also  protect  the 
feet  from  the  cold  ground.  Have  this  foot-wear  always  on 
the  load  for  ready  use. 

•For  the  hands  use  the  native  mittens  to  be  had  in  the  interior 
of  Alaska,  and  have  at  least  two  pairs.  They  are  made  of 
moose-hide,  trimmed  at  the  top  with  fur  reaching  to  the  elbow, 
and  lined  with  blanket.  The  proper  thing  is  to  have  the  mit- 
tens connected  with  cord  long  enough  to  go  around  the  neck  and 
allow  the  wearer  to  drop  them  at  pleasure. 

Wear  woolen  mittens  inside  of  the  native  mittens.  Always 
keep  wrists  warm;  be  sure  and  carry  on  your  person  an  extra 
pair  of  these  woolen  mittens  to  use  immediately  in  case  of 
perspiration. 

Never  allow  yourself  ?to  perspire, —  always  be  on  guard 
against  it.  In  extreme  cold  weather  it  is  taking  a  great  chance 
of  freezing  to  death.  In  a  few  words,  properly  dressing  in 
the  "North"  means  putting  on  just  as  little  as  one  can  get  along 
with,  always  having  plenty  to  put  on  to  prevent  suffering. 
Persons  traveling  must  regulate  their  gait  so  as  to  warm  up 
if  feeling  chilly,  without  adding  more  clothes.  A  good  woolen 
sweater  is  a  part  of  the  outfit  and  should  never  be  omitted. 

The  head-gear  consists  of  ordinary  woolen  cap  with  flaps 
lined  with  fur  that  can  be  held  rvp  or  let  down  over  the  ears  and 
neck. 

Mucklucks  are  water-boots  made  by  the  Eskimos  of  seal- 
skin top  and  walrus  hide  bottoms.  A  pair  of  these  properly 
oiled  should  be  in  the  outfit  for  wear  in  overflows. 

Leather  shoes  cannot  be  used  with  snowshoes;  nothing  but 
moccasins  or  mucklucks  will  answer.  Snowshoes  should  be 
purchased  wherever  it  is  intended  to  travel  through  and  snow- 
shoes  are  necessary.  Snowshoes  made  for  wet  snow  will  not 
answer  in  dry  snow.  The  managing  of  snowshoes  is  very 
simple.  There  should  be  a  pair  of  what  are  known  as  trailers 
for  use  on  light  broken  trails. 

Glacier  ice  is  smooth  and  hummocky.  When  traveling  where 
it  is  forming,  ice  creepers  are  in  order. 

When  traveling  via  dog-sled  in  winter,  the  "bed"  consists  of 
a  robe,  at  least  one  double  blanket  and  a  tarpaulin,  the  last 
named  to  roll  the  bed  in,  as  protection  from  the  ground  or  snow, 


RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON      95 

and  as  a  wind  shield.  This  should  be  15  by  8  feet  of  8-  or  10- 
ounce  canvas.  Making  the  bed:  One  half  of  the  tarpaulin 
goes  under  and  the  other  half  covers  the  top.  ,  On  hunting 
trips,  traveling  with  tents,  these  beds  are  equally  as  desirable 
as  if  without  shelter. 

As  if  to  make  up  for  not  having  poisonous  reptiles  in  Alaska, 
mosquitoes  are  plus  in  the  summer  time,  but  are  not  known 
to  convey  disease  germs  of  any  kind;  malaria  is  unknown 
in  Alaska.  Therefore  there  is  the  mosquito  tent,  in  which  two 
men  can  lodge  and  close  up  with  absolute  protection  against 
rain  and  mosquitoes.  It  has  holes  for  windows  covered  with 
bobbinet,  a  canvas  floor,  and  a  drawstring  door.  It  can  be 


Top:  Mountain  Goats 
Bottom:  Salmon  Ascending  Creek  Near  Ketchikan,  Alaska 


96     RAND  M<?NALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

tied  up  between  two  trees  in  a  moment's  time.  The  bed  is 
left  inside  this  tent  and  they  are  rolled  up  together.  This 
tent  weighs  about  ten  pounds.  Two  head  nets  are  necessary 
when  traveling  in  the  interior,  the  second  in  reserve.  The 
proper  kind  have  bibs,  front  and  back,  that  tie  with  strings 
under  the  arms.  Be  sure  and  have  plenty  of  canvas  gloves 
with  long  gauntlets  for  protection  against  mosquitoes. 

Roadhouses.  These  are  the  stopping  places  for  travelers 
along  the  winter  and  summer  trails,  built  at  a  day's  walk 
apart — as  are  the  old  Franciscan  Missions  from  Sonoma  to 
San  Diego  in  California.  On  some  of  the  more  important 
trails  they  are  located  at  shorter  distances.  The  furniture  of 
these  places  is  home  made,  unique  and  comfortable,  restful  and 
inviting  to  the  travelers  of  the  trail.  Many  of  the  roadhouses 
have  bath  tubs.  The  name  has  no  such  meaning  as  the  sub- 
urban houses  in  the  States;  they  are  the  "hotels"  of  the  region. 

The  buildings  are  of  logs  and  chinked  with  moss;  the  roofs 
covered  with  moss  and  dirt,  and  are  warm  in  all  weather. 

Upon  arriving  travelers  are  cordially  received,  assisted 
in  removing  wraps,  and  hanging  footgear  and  mittens  on 
the  drying  rack;  furnished  with  slippers  and  beds  assigned 
for  rest  until  meal  time.  The  latest  newspapers,  magazines, 
victrolas  and  assorted  records  are  part  of  the  house  equipment. 
The  spirit  of  the  frontier  pervades;  the  roadhouse  manager's 
greetings  are  as  for  friends  rather  than  temporary  guests. 
Most  all  houses  have  gardens  attached  in  which  vegetables 
are  raised.  There  are  always  rooms  set  aside  for  women,  and 
there  is  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  greater  deference  and  court- 
esy to  women  than  at  these  Alaskan  roadhouses. 

The  food  includes  wild  meats  —  caribou,  sheep,  moose,  white- 
fish,  trout,  grayling,  and  pike — depending  on  the  locality — and, 
as  the  North  is  a  great  bird  country — grouse,  partridge,  prairie 
hen,  spruce  hen,  ptarmigan,  etc.  Vegetables  are  served  even 
in  the  most  remote  places. 

Charges  range  from  $1.00  to  $2.00  per  meal  and  from  50  cents 
to  $1.00  for  bed.  The  service,  generally,  with  travelers  is 
breakfast  and  dinner  upon  arrival  at  the  end  of  day's  journey. 

On  the  main  trails,  such  as  the  Chitina-Fairbanks  and  the 
trails  from  Fairbanks  to  Nome,  relief  U.  S.  telegraph  stations 
are  located  at  intervals.  Roadhouses  at  or  near  these  stations 
receive  daily  bulletins  of  all  the  big  events  in  the  world. 

Travelers  by  trails  will  find  the  woods  well  cut  and  blazed 
and  where  they  cross  open  country,  tripods  or  other  markers 
show  the  way.  Some  roadhouses  have  beacon  lights  on  tall 
poles  that  can  be  seen  for  several  miles. 


RAND   MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO   ALASKA  AND  YUKON      97 


Top:   Ketchikan,  Alaska 
Bottom:   Portion  of  Ketchikan  Trolling  Fleet 

PUBLIC   SCHOOLS 

Public  schools  are  maintained  for  white  children  and  children 
of  mixed  blood  leading  a  civilized  life,  and  are  administered 
under  both  Federal  and  territorial  laws. 

There  are  163  teachers;  88  percent  of  the  high  school  teachers 
are  college  graduates.  Schools  in  Anchorage,  Douglas,  Fair- 
banks, Juneau,  Nome,  and  Valdez  offer  a  4-year  course  of  high 
school  work.  Schools  in  Cordova,  Seward,  Skagway,  and 
Wrangell  give  a  3 -year  course.  Petersburg  and  Sitka  have 
a  2 -year  course.  Alaska  high  schools  are  in  general  accredited 
at  the  leading  state  universities.  Juneau  and  Ketchikan  have 

8 


98    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

teacher-training  departments  in  connection  with  high  schools. 
Five  of  the  larger  communities  offer  courses  in  manual  training 
and  domestic  science,  and  at  least  some  work  along  this  line  is 
done  in  approximately  one-fourth  of  the  schools. 

Special  supervisors  of  music  and  drawing  are  employed  in  a 
few  of  the  larger  institutions;  orchestra  and  chorus  work  are 
not  neglected.  Military  drill  is  a  regular  part  of  the  required 
course  of  several  of  the  schools.  Medical  inspection  and  dental 
examinations  have  been  introduced  —  eight  schools  providing 
for  the  former  and  two  for  the  latter. 

The  following  schools  are  equipped  with  motion-picture 
machines  which  handle  standard  size  films:  Anchorage,  Cor- 
dova, Douglas,  Juneau,  Ketchikan,  and  Valdez.  The  Junior 
Red  Cross  is  well  represented  in  the  territory  and  in  several 
communities  troops  of  Boy  Scouts  are  being  organized.  School 
savings  from  37  schools  show  a  total  savings  in  government 
securities  and  savings  banks  of  $59, 817. 25.  In  the  incorporated 
towns  and  incorporated  districts  there  are  16  white  schools, 
with  98  teachers  and  an  average  attendance  of  1,635.  Outside 
the  incorporated  towns  and  incorporated  school  districts  there 
are  52  schools  with  65  teachers  and  an  enrollment  of  1,357. 

Eleven  communities  hold  citizenship  high  schools  with  an 
attendance  of  nearly  400  embracing  35  different  nationalities. 
PUGET    SOUND   TO    POINT   BARROW   ALONG 
ALASKA'S   COAST 

Leaving  Puget  Sound,  the  ship,  after  touching  at  Victoria, 
British  Columbia,  proceeds  through  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  and 
traverses  for  800  miles  before  reaching  Alaskan  waters  a  stretch 
of  inland  waterways  separated  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  numer- 
ous islands,  and  which  are  broken  only  by  the  wide  waters  of 
Queen  Charlotte  and  Milbank  Sounds  and  Dixon's  entrance. 

The  scenery  of  this  route  both  in  British  Columbia  and  Alaska 
has  never  yet  been  faithfully  portrayed.  Islands,  mountains, 
inlets,  and  glaciers  appear  on  every  hand,  and  the  eye  is 
delighted  at  every  turn  by  a  constantly  recurring  succession 
of  pleasurable  surprises  in  the  form  of  natural  scenery  sub- 
limely grand.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  passage  through 
the  Alexander  Archipelago,  with  its  thousand  islands,  moun- 
tain-crowned, and  clothed  to  the  snow-capped  peaks,  with  a 
livery  of  emerald  green.  The  islands  are  never  out  of  sight, 
and  the  steamer  is  rarely  ever  more  than  three  miles  from  land 
on  either  side  during  the  whole  distance. 

To  the  right  is  the  mainland  of  British  Columbia;  to  the  left 
the  island  which  takes  its  name  from  the  intrepid  explorer 
Vancouver,  who  sailed  into  the  unknown  waters  of  the  Pacific 
and  charted  the  coast  from  California  to  Cook  Inlet,  Alaska. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    99 


Nowhere  is  the  scene  the  same,  barely  even  similar,  though 
everywhere  it  is  composed  of  mountains  rising  abruptly  from 
the  sea.  Islands  innumerable  guard  the  waters  of  the  inside 
channel  from  the  storms  of  the  Pacific. 

Vancouver  Island  and  the  mainland  behind  Vancouver  city 
teem  with  history.  Here  the  Honorable  Company  of  Merchant 
Adventurers  trading  into  Hudson  Bay  had  their  scattered 
posts  into  which  the  factors  collected  the  skins  from  the  Indians 
whom  they  had  brought  under  their  sway. 

At  Alert  Bay  there  are  totem  poles  side  by  side  with  modern 
industries.  Salmon  canneries  are  in  full  swing  in  the  summer, 
packing  the  fish,  which  goes  across  the  whole  world  in  ever- 
increasing  quantities,  from  the  host  of  canneries  which  lie  along 
the  whole  of  the  coast  to  the  north. 

From  Alert  Bay  the  passage  soon  leads  past  Bella  Bella  and 
on  Charlotte  Sound,  and  the  deep,  land-locked  harbor  of  Prince 
Rupert,  the  entrance  to  which  is  from  the  south — the  exit  to 
the  north.  Here  in  Dixon's  Entrance  is  the  channel  by  which 
ocean  steamers  may  approach  the  mainland  at  this  point  of 
the  coast.  Once  Dixon's  Entrance  is  left  behind  there  is  no 
more  open  sea,  in  traversing  Southeastern  Alaska. 

Almost  immediately  after  leaving  Prince  Rupert,  the  ship 
enters  into  Alaskan  waters. 


Homesteads  in  Matanuska  Valley,  Alaska,  About  40  Miles  from  Anchorage 


100    RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

Metlakatla.  The  first  place  of  importance  the  traveler 
reaches  after  entering  Alaska  is  Metlakatla,  an  Indian  mission 
settlement,  on  Annette  Island,  60  miles  from  the  southern 
boundary,  population  574  (1920  census).  A  regularly  consti- 
tuted village  government  is  maintained;  the  public  buildings 
compare  favorably  with  the  best  in  Alaska.  At  this  place  we 
get  the  first  view  of  the  Alaskan  Indian;  quite  a  different 
race  from  the  red  man  as  we  know  him. 

He  is  smaller  in  stature  and  lighter  in  color  and  has  none  of 
that  look  as  of  rocks  and  mountain — austere  and  relentless  — 
that  our  Indians  have.  He  also  takes  more  kindly  to  our  ways 
and  customs,  and  to  our  various  manual  industries.  In  reach- 
ing the  land  of  the  Indian  we  reach  the  land  of  the  raven  also. 
In  the  village  they  are  everywhere  and  seem  to  act  as  the 
scavengers,  like  the  buzzards  in  the  South. 

From  Metlakatla  the  steamer  proceeds  to  Ketchikan,  the  most 
southerly  port  in  Alaska,  the  distributing  center  of  an  extensive 
mining  region,  rich  in  copper,  marble,  and  other  minerals. 
It  is  served  by  all  steamers  plying  on  the  inside  route. 

Hydaburg  is  on  the  southwest  coast  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Island,  85  miles  due  west  of  Ketchikan.  It  has  a  population 
of  346  (1920  census),  practically  all  whites.  The  town  con- 
sists of  about  90  buildings,  including  two  stores,  cannery,  saw 
and  shingle  mills. 

There  are  schools,  hospital,  and  a  Presbyterian  mission. 
Copper  and  gold  mining  is  carried  on  at  Copper  Mountain. 
All  kinds  of  wild  game  and  fish  are  plentiful  in  this  region. 

Ketchikan  is  an  incorporated  town  of  about  5,400  (1921) 
with  considerable  business  interests.  It  is  the  first  port 
of  call  for  steamers  doing  business  with  southeastern  Alaska, 
which  are  required  to  make  here  entry  of  cargo  and  passengers. 
It  has  stores,  six  large  canneries  in  the  town,  twenty-five  can- 
neries in  the  district,  outfitting  establishments,  two  cold-storage 
plants,  saw  mills,  and  is  the  commercial  distributing  point  for 
regions  contiguous.  There  are  educational  and  religious  insti- 
tutions, water  works,  electric  light  plants,  telephone  service. 

Craig.  This  town  of  212  persons  (1920  census)  is  in  the 
same  location  and  a  little  north  of  Hydaburg.  It  is  reached 
by  boats  from  Ketchikan  and  Wrangell.  The  population  is 
white  and  mixed. 

It  is  the  business  center  of  the  west  coast  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Island,  and  adjacent  to  one  of  the  best  fishing  grounds  of 
Southeastern  Alaska.  At  Craig  are  located  a  U.  S.  Government 
wireless  station,  customs  office,  and  'Forest  Rangers  station. 
It  has  large  and  well  equipped  stores,  bakery,  machine  shop, 
steam  laundry,  etc. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  101 


Top:   Lane  School,  Nenana,  Alaska 
Bottom:   Some  of  the  Pupils 

Wrangell  is  the  next  point  reached,  population,  821  (1920 
census) ;  named  for  Baron  Wrangell  who  was  governor  of 
Alaska  1832-36;  located  on  the  island  of  the  same  name  and  not 
far  from  the  Stikine  River.  It  was  once  the  chief  trading 
station  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 

Wrangell  commands  the  entire  trade  of  the  Stikine  River, 
which  is  navigable  for  about  150  miles.  The  region  is  rich  in 
fisheries,  timber,  minerals,  and  furs.  There  is  here  also  a 
native  village,  second  in  population  to  none  of  Southeastern 
Alaska,  Sitka  alone  excepted. 

Of  paramount  interest  to  visitors  are  the  totem-poles  which 
are  here  to  be  seen  in  perhaps  greater  number  and  variety 
than  any  other  of  the  native  settlements. 


102    RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO,  ALASKA   AND   YUKON 


From  Wrangell  to  Juneau,  through  Sumner  Straits,  Wrangell 
Narrows,  Frederick  Sound,  Stevens  Passage,  and  Gastineau 
Channel  the  distance  is  about  180  miles,  the  course,  after 
leaving  Wrangell  Narrows,  being  along  the  coast  of  the  main- 
land. 

John  Muir:  "Through  southeastern  Alaska,  the  broad 
lofty  mountains  along  the  coast  are  usually  laden  with  ice. 
The  upper  branches  of  nearly  all  the  canyons  are  occupied  by 
glaciers,  which  increase  in  size  gradually  and  descend  lower 
until  the  region  which  is  highest  and  snowiest,  between  56° 
and  61°,  is  reached,  where  a  considerable  number  discharge 
fleets  of  icebergs  into  the  sea. 

This  is  the  region  of  greatest  glacial  abundance  on  the  west 
side  of  the  continent.  It  is  about  500  miles  long,  100  broad, 
and  probably  includes  nine- tenths  of  the  ice  on  the  coast." 

Petersburg,  at  the  north  end  of  Wrangell  Narrows,  is  a  thriv- 
ing community  of  879  (1920  census).  In  the  adjacent  territory 
are  many  mineral  properties  under  development.  Attractions 
for  fishermen  and  hunters  are  strong.  Game  animals,  birds 
and  fish  in  abundance. 

Chief  industries:  Salmon,  halibut,  shrimp  and  crab  fishing, 
and  canning. 

There  are  several  up-to-date  stores,  two  or  three  restaurants 
that  can  be  recommended  for  tourists,  and  a  good  hotel. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  are  black  bear,  brown  bear,  deer, 
wolf,  mountain  goat,  some  moose  and  caribou,  as  well  as  an 
abundance  of  ducks,  geese,  grouse,  eagles,  ptarmigan,  etc.,  as 
also  rainbow  and  other  trout;  shrimps,  crabs,  and  clams  in 
unbelievable  quantities.  The  climate  conditions  are  very 
agreeable  and  compare  favorably  in  every  respect  with  those 
of  Oregon  and  Washington. 

It  is  warmer  than  any  place  in  the  world  of  similar  latitude. 
The  summer  with  its  18  hours  of  sunshine  per  24  and  its 
daylight  nights  is,  however,  far  above  comparison  with  that  of 
the  Pacific  coast  states.  The  scenery  surrounding  is  alpine  in 
its  beauty. 

Among  the  numerous  trips  which  may  be  made  from  Peters- 
burg: A  few  minutes  row  is  Petersburg  Creek,  which  abounds 
in  various  kinds  of  game  and  trout  all  the  way  to  its  source. 
Petersburg  Lake  is  6  miles  back;  Brown's  Cove,  Point 
Agassiz,  and  Portage  Cove,  from  5  to  15  miles  distant.  Every- 
where are  lakes  and  creeks  teeming  with  fish. 

Kake.  Population,  387  (1920  census),  mostly  natives. 
This  town,  which  is  on  Kupraenof  Island,  60  miles  from  Peters- 
burg, contains  about  50  buildings — three  stores,  Presbyterian 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  103 

mission,  and  lumber  mill.  Its  industries  are  salmon  canning 
and  making  hair  seal  moccasins.  Near  the  town  are  a  garden 
vegetable  farm  and  a  blue  fox  ranch.  In  this  region  wild  game 
and  fish  are  abundant. 

Tenakee  is  on  Chichagof  Island,  85  miles  from  Juneau, 
75  miles  from  Sitka.  Population,  174  (1920  census),  includes 
about  30  natives.  There  are  two  salmon  canneries  in  this 
vicinity. 

The  Le  Conte  Glacier,  15  miles  distant,  is  the  most  south- 
erly tidal  glacier  in  the  world.  It  can  be  seen  at  a  distance 
of  20  miles  and  is  easily  accessible  by  steamer  or  launch.  This 
glacier  moves  every  24  hours,  with  recurrent  falls  of  blocks  and 


Alaska-Juneau  Mine  and  Mill,  Gold  Creek 

avalanches  of  ice  accompanied  by  thundering  roars  and 
reverberations  and  tidal  wave  effects;  indeed,  this  glacier  is 
classed  as  one  of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  the  world. 

Warm  Springs  on  Baranoff  Island,  about  seven  hours  distant 
by  motor  boat,  contain  the  highest  known  qualities  of  sulphur 
and  are  noted  for  their  curative  properties  for  rheumatism, 
kidney,  nervous,  and  blood  disorders.  There  are  good  accom- 
modations for  sojourners. 

On  this  latter  trip  may  be  visited  one  of  the  largest  whaling 
stations  in  Alaska,  as  well  as  large  canneries  and  salting  stations. 

Other  interesting  side-trips  are  by  motor  boats  to  the  numer- 
ous Indian  villages  and  fox  farms  where  the  blue  and  silver  are 
bred  for  the  fur. 

Juneau,  the  capital  of  Alaska,  is  located  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  Gastineau  Channel,  900  miles  north  of  Seattle,  and 
is  the  metropolis  as  well  as  the  capital  of  Alaska.  Population, 


104      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Southeaster] 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      105 


ska  Region 


106    RAND   M9NALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

3,058  (1920  census).  It  is  in  the  very  center  of  the  greatest 
gold  quartz  mining  districts  of  the  world,  many  millions  of 
dollars  in  gold  having  been  added  to  the  wealth  of  the  nation 
from  Juneau's  mines. 

Except  for  the  narrow  confines  of  Gastineau  Channel,  Juneau 
is  wholly  surrounded  by  towering  mountains  that  for  physical 
grandeur  and  majestic  beauty  are  unsurpassed  in  America  and 
unexcelled  in  the  world. 

Many  of  her  mountain  peaks  have  never  been  crested  by 
animal  life  save  that  of  eagle's  wing.  'Tis  here  that  raging 
torrents  race  riotously  down  the  almost  perpendicular  declivities 
in  the  good  old  summer  time  —  awesome,  magnificent,  and 
unbelievably  grand. 

Mendenhall  Glacier  can  be  reached  in  an  hour  over  a  good 
road,  being  but  sixteen  miles  distant  from  the  city.  Within  a 
three-minute  walk  after  a  delightful  auto  ride  of  an  hour  after 
leaving  Juneau,  sightseers  may  cool  their  hands  on  the  blue  ice 
of  old  Mendenhall. 

Autos  are  always  in  waiting  on  the  arrival  of  steamers  during 
the  tourist  season.  The  trip  to  the  Glacier  is  made  along  the 
shores  of  a  long  but  shallow  continuation  of  Gastineau  Channel, 
the  splendid  highway  being  fringed  with  improved  farms,  large 
dairies  and  hay  ranches  that  cause  visitors  for  the  time  being 
to  forget  that  they  are  in  Alaska. 

Taku  Glacier,  located  thirty-five  miles  from  Juneau,  acces- 
sible by  either  steamer  or  small  boat,  is  another  of  Nature's 
marvels.  Its  solid  front  of  blue  ice  towers  about  250  feet 
above  the  waters  of  Taku  Inlet  and  glistens  like  diamonds  in 
a  diadem. 

An  irresistible  force  from  behind  keeps  the  mountain  of  ice 
constantly  moving  toward  the  water  by  which  its  lower  portions 
are  undermined  and  melted  away,  causing  the  over-hanging 
walls  to  give  way  with  cannon-like  roars,  and  drop  into  the  water 
beneath — a  sight  once  witnessed  never  forgotten.  As  scenic 
assets,  the  glaciers  near  Juneau  are  among  her  most  valuable. 

Gold  Creek  Canyon.  Ten  minutes'  walk  or  five  minutes 
by  auto  will  enable  the  tourist  to  reach  Gold  Creek  Canyon 
after  landing  at  any  of  the  Juneau  docks. 

The  canyon  is  a  narrow  defile  between  towering  snow-capped 
mountains  and  is  similar  in  beauty  and  grandeur  to  the  world- 
famed  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado.  Gold  Creek  Canyon 
is  skirted  by  board  walks  and  a  well-kept  auto  road.  For  four 
miles  up  this  panoramic  vista  one  delight  is  succeeded  by 
another,  the  highway  ending  at  Perseverance  Mine,  where  gold 
mining  operations  are  carried  on  in  no  less  than  thirteen  levels 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  107 

and  where  all  ore  mined  is  loaded  into  cars  by  the  gravity  system, 
a  powerfully  equipped  electric  railroad  terminating  in  the 
thirteenth  level  from  which  the  ore  is  hauled  to  the  Alaska- 
Gastineau  Mill,  seven  miles  distant  from  the  mine.  A  trip 
to  and  through  the  Perseverance  Mine  is  never  forgotten  by 
the  "chechacko"  (tenderfoot). 

The  Alaska-Gas tineau  Mill,  and  that  of  the  Alaska- Juneau, 
the  latter  being  located  only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
Juneau  docks,  are  credited  with  being  the  most  modern  mining 
mills  in  the  world. 

They  are  both  operated  by  electricity  and  each  has  a  capacity 
for  milling  12,000  tons  of  ore  every  twenty-four  hours.  They 
must  be  visited  to  be  understood  and  appreciated 

Between  the  Alaska-Gas  tineau  and  Alaska- Juneau  mills, 
but  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  channel,  on  Douglas  Island,  is 
located  the  world-famed  Tread  well  group  of  mines,  from  which 
about  $65,000,000  have  been  taken  since  they  were  opened 
up  thirty-five  years  ago. 

Three  of  the  four  mines  of  the  Treadwell  group  were  flooded 
three  years  ago,  but  the  fourth,  the  Ready  Bullion,  is  still 
operating,  and  is  one  of  the  heavy  producers  of  Alaska. 

Douglas  and  Treadwell  are  reached  by  an  hourly  ferry 
service  from  Juneau. 

If  tourists  are  unable  to  arrange  to  stop  over  for  a  period  at 
Juneau,  they  should  insist  and  see  to  it  that  the  steamers  on 
which  they  travel  arrive  at  Juneau  and  remain  for  several  hours 
in  daylight.  The  capital  city  will  furnish  the  attractions. 

Juneau  supports  a-  daily  newspaper,  banks,  assay  office, 
and  cable  connection  with  Seattle. 


•r 


$1,500,000  Steel  Bridge,  C.  R.  &  N.  W.  Ry.  at  Miles  Glacier 


108    RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

Auto  Service  and  Rates.  To  Mendenhall  Glacier  and 
return,  time  about  2^  hours;  minimum  rate,  $10;  four  pas- 
sengers allowed;  all  over  four,  $2.50  each. 

To  Perseverance  Mine  and  return,  time  about  two  hours; 
minimum  rate,  $10;  four  passengers  allowed;  all  over  four, 
$2  each. 

The  Juneau  Commercial  Association  gives  assurance  that 
the  above  rates  are  reasonable. 

The  Territorial  Historical  Museum,  embracing  the  greatest 
and  most  nearly  complete  collection  of  Eskimo  curios  now  in 
existence  with  the  possible  exception  of  that  of  the  Smithsonian 
Institution  at  Washington,  B.C.,  is  now  open  to  the  public  at  the 
territorial  capital,  Juneau.  The  collection  consists  of  upward 
of  20,000  different  articles  and  represents  ten  years'  work  by 
Daniel  S.  Neuman,  who  spent  a  decade  on  the  coasts  of  Bering 
Sea  and  the  Arctic  Ocean.  The  museum  is  in  charge  of 
Rev.  Fr.  A.  P.  Kashevaroff,  a  priest  of  the  Greek  Catholic 
Church  and  himself  a  native  of  Alaska,  having  been  born  in 
Sitka  while  Alaska  was  yet  Russian  territory.  The  museum 
is  beyond  doubt  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  many  beauties 
and  wonders  Alaska  offers  her  many  visitors. 

Mount  Juneau,  Mount  Roberts,  and  Mount  Jumbo,  all  rising 
about  3,500  feet  directly  from  sea  level,  are  all  easy  of  access 
and  can  be  easily  climbed,  although  guides  should  be  taken. 

Turner  Lake,  claimed  to  be  not  surpassed  by  Lake  Louise, 
Taku  Glacier,  Norris  Glacier,  Taku  Inlet,  Tracy  Arm,  and 
Grindstone  and  Rhinestone  creeks  can  all  be  reached  by  small 
boats  within  one  to  two  or  four  hours. 

Comfortable  gasolene  vessels  can  be  chartered  for  from  $15 
to  $25  per  day  to  make  these  trips.  Salmon  Creek  Dam,  one 
of  the  largest  reservoir  dams  on  the  continent,  can  be  reached 
by  a  pleasant  walk  from  the  mouth  of  Salmon  Creek,  the 
latter  being  reached  by  automobile. 

There  are  hot  springs  at  Tenakee  and  Sitka.  Trips  can  also 
be  made  from  Juneau  to  the  Alaska- Juneau  Mine,  which  is 
practically  within  the  city  limits;  to  the  Alaska-Gastineau 
Mines  and  to  the  Alaska  Treadwell  Company  Mines  on  Douglas 
Island,  connected  by  ferry  with  Juneau. 

The  average  temperature  in  July  is  57.8°.  The  mean  rain- 
fall precipitation  in  June,  the  average  driest  month,  is  3.92 
inches. 

Deer,  goats,  bear,  wolves,  and  sheep  can  all  be  obtained  within 
a  short  distance  of  Juneau.  There  is  also  fishing  in  practically 
all  the  streams,  and  trolling  and  other  deep  sea  fishing  can  be 
engaged  in  in  all  the  inlets  and  channels.  Grouse,  ptarmigan, 
ducks,  and  geese  are  also. in. abundance  in  this  vicinity. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  109 


Alaska  Silver  Fox  in  Captivity 

There  are  four  distinct  areas  within  easy  access  to  Juneau 
which  are  particularly  available  for  farming  purposes,  to  wit: 
Mendenhall  Valley,  Taku  Glacier  Valley,  Eagle  River  Valley, 
and  Strawberry  Point.  Stock,  dairy  and  strawberry  raising 
so  far  have  proved  to  be  most  suitable  to  engage  in.  The 
shores  of  countless  smaller  bays  and  valleys  will  also  in  time  be 
taken  up  for  these  purposes;  as  on  nearly  every  one  the  chief 
investment  used  by  the  homesteader  is  labor,  as  he  can  make 
his  living  off  the  land,  and  there  is  always  an  abundance  of 
game  and  fish  to  be  obtained. 

During  twenty-seven  years  of  weather  reports  the  figures 
show  that  at  no  time  during  eleven  of  those  years  did  the 
temperature  rise  above  80°  F.,  and  in  fourteen  years  of  that  time 
it  did  not  go  below  zero,  and  in  seven  years,  it  did  not  go  below 
7°  above  zero. 

The  longest  day  is  18  hours,  20  minutes  at  Juneau,  and  all 
through  June,  July,  and  August  the  days  are  exceedingly  long. 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  have  a  baseball  game  up  to  as  late 
as  10.00  p.m. 

Prospective  investors  would  do  well  to  look  into  the  possi- 
bilities of  the  paper  and  pulp,  fisheries,  cold  storage,  fish  by- 
products, mines,  and  timber  industries. 

There  are  no  such  things  as  cyclones  or  dust  storms,  and 
even  heavy  thunder  storms  do  not  occur  here.  There  are 
neither  any  snakes  nor  poisonous  spiders. 

Leaving  Juneau  the  steamer  rounds  the  southerly  end  of 
Douglas  Island  and  heads  on  through  Saginaw  passage  into 
Lynn  Canal,  finally  arriving  at  Skagway,  at  the  head  of  the 
canal,  the  limit  of  salt  water  navigation  in  that  direction. 


no  RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Thane.  Here  is  located  the  Perseverance  mine,  referred 
to  herein  under  heading  "Juneau."  Population,  421  (1920 
census) . 

Hoonah  is  on  Chichagof  Island.  The  population,  402  (1920 
census),  is  90  per  cent  natives.  There  are  several  stores, 
a  cannery  near-by,  water  and  lighting  system,  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment school,  Presbyterian  and  Greek  churches,  and  saw  mill. 
Three  farms  within  five  miles  raise  vegetables,  chicken,  cattle, 
rabbits,  etc.  As  in  all  parts  of  this  region  there  are  game  and 
fish  in  plenty. 

Haines.  Population,  314  (1920  census),  is  a  few  miles  south 
of  Skagway  on  the  east  shore  of  a  long  narrow  peninsula  lying 


Rye  and  Oats,  Hot  Springs,  Alaska 

between  Chilkoot  and  Chilkat  inlets.  It  is  the  outlet  of  the 
Porcupine  mining  district  in  Alaska  and  of  the  Rainy  Hollow 
mining  district  in  British  Columbia,  to  each  of  which  a  wagon 
road  extends. 

Fort  William  H.  Seward,  headquarters  of  the  army  in 
Alaska,  adjoins  the  town  of  Haines. 

About  two  miles  distant  from  Haines  is  Pyramid  Harbor 
where  there  is  a  large  salmon  cannery.  Tourists,  on  ships 
which  call  at  Haines,  visit  this  interesting  activity  while  waiting 
for  the  steamer  to  discharge  and  take  on  cargo. 

Within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  from  Haines  there  are  several 
native  villages,  the  whole  containing  in  the  aggregate  a  larger 
native  population  than  is  embraced  within  the  same  limits 
elsewhere  in  Alaska. 

Skagway,  located  at  the  head  of  Lynn  Canal,  although  small 
in  point  of  population,  494  (1920  census),  is  one  of  the  most 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    111 

important  towns  in  Alaska.  It  is  the  only  gateway  to  the 
great  interior,  affording  access  by  rail  and  connecting  river 
steamers  to  all  of  the  principal  mining  centers  in  the  interior 
of  Alaska  and  the  Yukon  Territory  contiguous  to  the  Yukon 
River  and  its  tributaries.  Skagway  can  also  boast  of  having 
the  first  railroad  built  in  Alaska — the  White  Pass  &  Yukon 
Route. 

No  town  in  Alaska,  with  the  exception  of  Dyea — now  deserted 
—is  so  closely  and  intimately  associated  with  the  great  gold 
rush  to  the  Klondike  in  1897  and  1898.  For  here  came  men 
by  the  thousands — most  of  them  to  begin  their  toilsome 
climb  over  the  Summit  of  White  Pass;  thence  to  brave  the 
dangers  of  Miles  Canyon,  White  Horse  Rapids,  Five  Finger 
Rapids,  and  Rink  Rapids.  Few  towns  have  ever  been  any 
wilder  than  Skagway  was  in  the  days  of  '97  and  '98 — but  that 
has  now  passed  into  history.  Today  Skagway  is  as  law-abiding 
a  town  as  one  will  find  anywhere.  And,  too,  it  is  a  modern 
little  town.  It  has  an  electric  light  and  telephone  system  as 
well  as  water  works.  There  are  churches,  schools,  fraternal 
orders,  a  daily  newspaper,  good  stores,  including  one  of  the 
largest,  if  not  the  largest,  curio  shops  in  Alaska  and  very  good 
tourist  hotels. 

The  U.  S.  Government  cable  connects  Skagway  with  Seattle 
as  well  as  with  other  telegraph  stations  in  Alaska. 

The  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  maintains  a  telegraph  serv- 
ice between  Skagway  and  White  Horse  where  connection  is 
made  with  the  Canadian  Government  telegraph  line. 

The  several  thousand  tourists  who  visit  Skagway  every 
summer  have  spread  its  fame  as  a  city  of  flowers  far  and  wide, 
for  nowhere  in  Alaska  are  there  more  beautiful  flower  gardens 
than  here. 

There  are  many  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity:  Mt. 
Dewey,  Lower  and  Upper  Dewey  Lake,  A.  B.  Mountain, 
Reid's  Falls,  Reid's  Monument,  Denver  Glacier,  old  deserted 
Dyea,  and  he  who  likes  " hiking"  or  mountain  climbing  will 
find  many  interesting  trails. 

The  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  operates  a  daily,  except 
Sunday,  train  service  between  Skagway,  Carcross  and  White 
Horse,  connecting,  during  the  season  of  navigation  (from 
about  June  i  to  October  10),  with  the  steamers  of  the  White 
Pass  &  Yukon  Route  at  Carcross  for  the  beautiful  Atlin  Lake 
country  and  at  White  Horse  for  Dawson  in  the  Klondike. 

The  tourists  visiting  Alaska  will  find  the  trip  to  Dawson  and 
Atlin  of  exceptional  interest  and  scenic  grandeur.  The  route 
followed  is  that  taken  by  the  gold  seekers  in  '97  and  '98. 


112    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

From  the  parlor  observation  car,  or  the  deck  of  the  steamer, 
one  may  view  the  ever-changing  panorama  of  wild,  rugged 
mountains,  wondrously  beautiful  lakes,  rushing  mountain 
torrents,  cascades,  water  falls  and  glaciers,  and  at  the  same 
time  enjoy  the  comforts  of  modern  travel  conveniences.  De- 
tailed description  of  the  trip  by  rail  to  White  Horse  and  the 
trip  to  Atlin,  Dawson,  etc.,  will  be  found  on  page  143  and  the 
following  pages. 

Pursuing  the  journey  westward,  the  ship  heads  back  through 
Icy  Strait  and  into  Chatham  Strait,  a  long  channel,  averaging 
6  miles  wide,  between  the  Admirality,  Chichagof,  and  Baranof 
Islands,  landing  finally  at  Killisnoo,  population,  256  (1920 
census) .  During  this  sail  the  ship  passes  not  far  from  the  native 
village  of  Hoonah  on  the  north  of  Chichagof  Island,  population, 
402  (1920  census),  and  Hunter  Bay  and  the  native  village  of 
Angoon,  population,  114  (1920  census),  both  the  latter  on 
Admiralty  Island. 

Killisnoo  is  located  about  midway  between  Juneau  and  Sitka 
on  the  most  direct  route,  and  adjacent  to  waters  literally  alive 
with  cod,  halibut,  and  herring.  Killisnoo 's  industry  is  in  oil 
works,  with  an  annual  capacity  of  250,000  gallons  pressed  at 
a  temperature  of  12°,  and  1,500  tons  of  guano,  prepared  from 
the  refuse  of  the  herring  from  which  the  oil  is  extracted. 


Map  of  Alaska  Showing  Railroads,  Navigable  Rivers  and  Steamship  Lines 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     113 


Top — A  Corner  of  a  Skagway,  Alaska,  Garden 
Bottom — Some  Skagway  Nasturtiums  That  Grew  over  25  Feet  in  a  Season 

9 


114    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

To   make    200,000    gallons   of   oil   involves   a    catch    of    not 
less  than  60,000  barrels  of  herring. 

Directly  opposite  Killisnoo  is  the  entrance  to  Peril  Strait 
through  which  the  ship  next  threads  her  way  in  intricate  chan- 
nels and  seething  rapids  to  Sitka,  a  distance  of  about  80  miles. 

Sitka,  population,  1,175  (1920  census),  occupies  a  site  at  the 
head  of  Sitka  Sound  on  the  west  side  of  Baranof  Island,  980  miles 
from  Seattle.  It  enjoys  the  advantage  of  a  safe  and  com- 
modious harbor  formed  by  numerous  small  wooded  islands 
which  afford  ample  protection  against  the  prevailing  westerly 
and  southerly  winds.  It  was  settled  in  1802  by  the  Russians. 

Charles  Keeler,  writing  of  this  region,  says:  "If  the  eagle 
seems  to  belong  to  these  solitudes  of  the  Northwest,  another 
bird,  which  we  found  equally  abundant  as  far  north  as  Juneau 
and  Sitka,  seemed  singularly  out  of  place.  Indeed,  even  after 
reading  that  the  tiny  rufous  humming  bird  journeyed  so  far 
into  the  northern  wilds,  it  was  with  almost  a  shock  of  surprise 
that  we  saw  the  dainty  creature  contentedly  buzzing  about  the 
salmonberries,  and  appearing  as  unconcerned  and  happy  as 
if  his  fine  wings  had  not  carried  him  some  thousands  of  miles 
from  his  winter  quarters  in  Southern  California  or  Mexico. 
I  cannot  imagine  a  more  wonderful  instance  of  bird  migration 
than  this  —  one  of  the  smallest  known  birds,  no  larger  than  a 
fair  sized  moth,  yet  with  strength,  endurance,  and  intelligence 
to  travel  up  and  down  the  greater  part  of  the  North  American 
coast  line,  pressing  close  upon  the  train  of  early  spring,  awaiting 
only  the  blooming  of  the  wild  currant  in  California,  and  the 
salmonberry  farther  north  to  venture  upon  his  perilous  way. 

All  hail  to   thee,   little   pioneer You   answered   the 

beckoning    little    blossoms   and    followed    them  ....  even 
upon  the  threshold  of  the  ice-king's  domain." 

The  walk  to  Indian  River,  a  beautiful  stream,  over  a  road 
which  winds  its  way  around  the  shore  under  an  almost  con- 
tinuous bower  of  evergreens  and  around  the  connecting  trail 
to  the  falls,  will  impart  to  the  visitor  a  lasting  impression  of  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  an  Alaskan  forest  and  the  limpidity  of 
Alaska's  flowing  fountains. 

Sitka  is  the  seat  of  a  mission  and  industrial  school  maintained 
by  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Home  Missions. 
^  Interesting  things  for  tourists  are  the  old  Greco-Russian 
Cathedral,  with  its  chime  of  bells  and  rare  valuable  paintings, 
many  of  them  embellished  with  precious  stones;  and  the 
draperies  of  beaten  gold  and  silver,  which  were  presented  to 
the  church  many  years  ago  by  Russian  nobility  as  marks  of 
their  devotion  to  the  faith,  and  regard  for  the  men  who  had 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     115 


Potato  Patch,  Hot  Springs,  Alaska 

consecrated  their  lives  to  the  promulgation  of  their  faith 
among  a  heathen  people,  and  Sitka  National  Park  with  its 
Totem  Poles,  the  native  village,  the  two  canneries  and  the  cold 
storage  plant,  the  fishing  fleet  operating  from  this  port,  and 
the  Presbyterian  school  for  natives. 

At  this  place  are  located  the  headquarters  of  the  Agriculture 
Department  for  Alaska,  the  Pioneers'  Home,  and  the  Govern- 
ment's magnetic  observatory.  There  is  a  Greek  church  built 
more  than  fifty  years  ago  which  contains  valuable  paintings 
and  other  treasures,  also  the  Sheldon- Jackson  Museum,  which 
has  many  interesting  curios. 

The  game  animals  in  this  section  include  bear,  deer,  ducks, 
geese,  swans,  several  species  of  grouse  and  ptarmigan,  all  of 
which  are  plentiful.  Fishing  is  open  and  ideal  all  the  year 
round.  King  Salmon  trolling  with  rod  and  line  furnishes  more 
excitement  and  thrills  per  minute  than  any  such  sport  in  the 
world;  trout,  including  rainbow,  cut-throat,  mountain,  and 
salmon  are  plentiful  in  the  many  creeks  and  lakes  near  Sitka, 
and  the  fishing  is  best  during  June  to  September,  inclusive. 
Halibut  may  be  caught  the  year  round. 

Looking  landward  from  the  ship,  to  the  right,  there  are  to  be 
seen  Mounts  Fairweather,  Crillon,  and  La  Perouse;  and  to  the 
left,  majestic  awe-inspiring  St.  Elias  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly 
19,000  feet,  their  snow  and  ice-clad  peaks  crowned  with  halos 
showing  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and  the  whole  constituting 
a  scene  at  once  sublimely  grand  and  beautiful.  The  elevations 
of  these  mountains  above  sea  level  vary  from  13,500  to  19,000 
feet.  Lying  between  the  base  of  this  range  and  the  seashore 


116    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

to  the  southeast  of  Yakutat  is  a  strip  of  comparatively  level 
land,  perhaps  20  miles  in  width,  which  is  heavily  timbered. 

Mulgrave  Harbor  is  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay, 
and  on  the  north  side  is  the  native  village,  population,  165 
(1920  census).  These  inhabitants  are  not  unlike  those  of  Sitka, 
speak  the  same  language,  and  live  in  houses  similarly  con- 
structed. A  few  frame  houses  with  a  store  and  post  office  make 
up  the  village. 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman  Painting  by  R.  Swain  Gifford 

Mt.  St.  Elias  from  Yakutat  Bay 

The  scenery  in  the  neighborhood  of  Yakutat  Bay,  and  indeed 
all  along  the  coast  as  far  west  as  Cook  Inlet,  is  most  impressive, 
quite  equal  in  beauty  and  grandeur  to  that  of  the  inland 
passages  in  Southeastern  Alaska. 

In  Yakutat  Bay  and  its  extension  known  as  Disenchantment 
Bay  are  the  Lucia,  Turner,  and  Hubbard  glaciers;  and  in  a 
water  extension  which  runs  back  and  parallel  to  the  two  bays 
and  known  as  Russell  Fiord  are  Nunatak  and  Hidden  glaciers. 
West  of  Yakutat  a  few  miles  is  the  largest  of  the  Alaska  glaciers, 
Malaspina,  covering  1,500  square  miles. 

Malaspina  Glacier  has  a  front  of  50  miles  on  the  sea  and  runs 
back  30  miles  to  the  St.  Elias  Range  from  which  it  is  fed.  It  is  a 
vast  plain  of  ice  with  lakes  and  rivers,  and  with  hills  of  rocks 
and  gravel  that  have  trees  and  alders  growing  upon  them. 
The  discharge  of  roily  water  from  beneath  it  is  so  great  that 
it  colors  the  sea  over  an  area  equal  to  its  own. 

In  this  vicinity  may  be  witnessed  the  process  of  salmon 
canning  and  the  operation  of  the  wonderful  "iron  chink." 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    117 

Fish  caught  are  put  in  this  establishment  just  as  they  come 
out  of  the  water.  They  leave  this  establishment  in  cases  of 
one-pound  cans,  60  cans  per  minute,  never  having  been  touched 
by  hand  except  when  inspected. 

Prince  William  Sound  is  a  deep  indentation  of  the  mainland, 
the  entrance  to  which  is  like  the  delta  of  a  great  river,  because 
of  the  many  islands  which  block  the  passages.  The  sound, 
which  is  likewise  crowded  with  islands,  and  covers  an  area  of 
something  over  2,500  miles,  was  first  explored  by  Captain  Cook 
during  the  last  voyage  in  1778.  It  is  surrounded  on  the 
north  and  east  by  the  mountains  of  the  Coast  Range  and  on  the 
west  by  the  Kenai  Peninsula.  The  many  indentations  of  the 
coast  line  on  the  north,  east,  and  west  protected  by  the  outlying 
islands  in  the  south,  form  natural  harbors  for  the  largest  sea- 
going vessels;  harbors  that  are  ice-free  throughout  the  year. 

Port  Wells,  the  extreme  northeastern  arm  of  Prince  William 
Sound,  using  the  words  of  John  Burroughs,  "is  another  great 
ice  chest  —  glaciers  to  right,  glaciers  to  left,  glaciers  in  front  — 
volley  and  thunder.  The  mountains  are  ribbed  with  them 
and  the  head  of  the  bay  walled  with  them.  Five  can  be  seen 
at  once;  they  are  separated  by  intervals  of  a  few  miles.  The 
two  large  ones  at  the  head  of  College  Fiord  are  the  Harvard  and 
Yale;  the  cascading  glaciers  on  the  west  side  are  Radcliffe, 
Smith,  Bryn  Mawr,  Vassar,  and  Wellesley,  and  the  main 
glacier  on  the  east  side  is  Amherst. 

Harriman  Glacier  is  located  at  the  end  of  Harriman  Fiord, 
discovered  and  named  by  the  Harriman  Alaskan  Expedition 
in  1899. 

Cordova.  Situated  at  the  head  of  Orca  Inlet,  an  arm  of 
Orca  Bay,  in  the  eastern  shore  of  Prince  William  Sound;  the 
terminus  of  the  Copper  River  and  Northwestern  Railway, 
which  extends  197  miles  to  the  Kennecott  copper  mines  in 
Chitina  Valley.  From  Chitina,  130  miles  from  Cordova,  a 
wagon  road  extends  to  Fairbanks,  a  distance  of  3 1 7  miles.  This 
road  is  traversed  by  autos  in  summer  and  sleighs  in  winter. 
Cordova  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  fishing  industry;  popula- 
tion, including  Eyak,  1,309  (1920  census).  The  town  is  well 
supplied  with  modern  improvements,  hotels,  streets,  banks, 
water  and  electric  light  systems,  etc.,  and  is  the  headquarters 
for  supplies  for  Latouche,  Ellamar,  Chitina,  McCarthy, 
Chisana,  Kennecott,  and  Strelna.  Also  the  Katalla  and 
Yakataga  oil  districts,  Bering  River  coal  fields,  and  Nizina, 
Kotsina,  Nabesna,  and  Shushanna  mining  districts.  Cordova 
claims  the  finest  harbor  from  a  naval  standpoint  in  Alaska. 


118    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

There  are  nine  salmon  canneries  and  two  clam  plants  and  one 
crab  canning  plant  in  operation.  Mining  machinery  of  all 
kinds  is  manufactured.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Chugach 
Forest  Reserve.  The  thermometer  has  rarely  been  known  to 
reach  as  low  as  zero. 

THE  COPPER  RIVER  &  NORTHWESTERN  RY. 

The  Copper  River  &  Northwestern  Railway  which  pene- 
trates the  Copper  River  Valley  to  a  distance  of  200  miles  from 
Cordova,  maintains  train  service,  modern  and  first-class  in 
every  respect,  with  rolling  stock  and  power  of  the  best.  The 
roadbed  is  rock-ballasted  and  carrying  yo-pound  steel  rails;  the 
trains  carry  a  dining  car.  Four  huge  steel  bridges,  spanning 
rivers  and  gorges,  were  built  at  a  cost  of  over  $2,500,000. 

From  Mount  St.  Elias  and  Mount  Logan  (18,000  and  19,500 
feet  in  height)  there  stretches  westward  for  a  distance  of  over 
500  miles  the  grandest  and  most  rugged  of  the  coast  ranges, 
broken  only  by  the  gorge  of  the  Copper  River.  On  the  slopes 
of  this  range  are  formed  the  largest  glaciers  in  the  world,  except- 
ing only  the  polar  ice  sheets.  To  the  north  and  skirted  by  the 
Copper  River  rise  the  Wrangell  Mountains,  with  numerous 
peaks  and  volcanoes  from  14,000  to  over  16,000  feet  in  height. 
Both  the  tourist  over  the  railway  and  those  coming  from  the 
Interior  of  Alaska  over  the  Chitina-Fairbanks  road  enjoy 
scenes  of  beauty  and  grandeur  unsurpassed.  Tourists  make 
this  trip  via  Skagway  by  the  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route 
and  down  the  Yukon  by  way  of  Dawson  to  Fairbanks,  thence 
over  the  government  automobile  road  to  Chitina,  thence 
via  the  Copper  River  &  Northwestern  Railway  to  Cordova. 

The  Richardson  Highway  stretches  south  from  Fairbanks  to 
the  Alaska  Coast  at  Valdez  and  Cordova.  From  Fairbanks 
the  direction  is  southward,  up  the  Tanana  Valley,  passing  pros- 
perous looking  farms  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town.  It  lies  along 
the  U.  S.  Signal  Corps  telegraph  lines  the  entire  distance,  and 
as  practically  all  the  roadhouses  are  equipped  with  telephones 
leading  to  the  various  offices  along  the  route,  one  is  never  out 
of  touch  with  the  outside  world. 

The  trip  by  automobile  can  be  made  in  2^2  days,  a  distance 
of  370  miles. 

Sixty  miles  from  Fairbanks  is  Birch  Lake  filled  with  pickerel 
and  white  fish,  the  former  ranging  in  size  from  the  smallest  to 
savage  40-pounders. 

From  Birch  Lake  the  route  is  through  Richardson,  a  small 
trading  post  on  the  banks  of  the  upper  Tanana  River,  where 
there  is  a  post  office,  telegraph  office,  roadhouses  and  several 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    119 

stores.  At  McCarty  the  highway  crosses  the  Tanana  River, 
a  ferry  being  located  there.  From  there  the  route  turns  up 
along  the  Delta  River  and  on  by  Donnelly  telegraph  station, 
Flannigan's  Roadhouse.  At  Summit  Lake,  one  of  the  prettiest 
inland  bodies  of  water  in  Alaska,  lurk  lake  trout  weighing  as 
much  as  35  pounds.  Down  the  wooded  benches  of  hills  winds 
the  road,  giving  glimpses  here  and  there  of  the  steeply  descend- 
ing Gulkana  River.  Off  in  the  distance  may  be  seen  the  tower- 
ing head  of  Mt.  McKinley,  and  as  one  approaches  the  coast 
Mt.  Drum,  Mt.  Wrangell,  and  Mt.  St.  Elias  loom  up  from 
tablelands  dwarfing  the  intervening  foothills  and  mountains  by 
their  majestic  heights.  At  Copper  Center,  population,  71  (1920 
census),  the  famous  Cooper  River  is  bridged  and  the  road  again 
ascends  the  plateau  and  stretches  ascending  and  descending 
gentle  declivities  to  Willow  Creek  where  one  branch  of  the  road 
turns  off  to  Chitina  and  the  Copper  River  and  Northwestern 
Railway,  the  other  leading  into  Valdez.  By  going  by  automo- 
bile direct  to  Valdez  one  crosses  the  Coast  Range  of  mountains, 
with  its  rugged  mountain  scenery  that  has  no  equal  ascending 
and  descending  in  long  winding  courses  over  benches,  crossing 
through  and  over  on  bridges  numerous  glacier  streams,  passing 
close  to  large  glaciers  and  parallel  to  the  famous  Keystone 
Canyon  into  the  town  of  Valdez  which  is  located  in  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  spots  in  Alaska. 

Those  taking  the  highway  route  from  Fairbanks  to  Valdez 
should  not  fail  to  take  a  side  trip  out  of  Cordova  over  the  Copper 
River  and  Northwestern  Railway  up  to  McCarthy,  population, 
127  (1920  census).  This  is  one  of  the  wonder  scenic  routes  of 
the  North,  passing  the  famous  Miles  and  Childs  glaciers. 
The  railroad  runs  along  the  Copper  River  for  a  great  distance 
and  its  construction  is  not  the  least  interesting  of  the  objects 
encountered  on  the  trip.  The  railroad  connects  the  great  Ken- 
necott  copper  mines  with  tidewater  at  Cordova. 

This  same  trip  is  available  for  those  who  desire  to  come  from 
Fairbanks  over  the  Richardson  Highway  to  Chitina.  From 
Willow  Creek  to  Chitina  are  many  things  of  interest  to  repay 
the  traveler  and  it  compares  favorably  with  the  Willow  Creek- 
to- Valdez  route. 

Kennecott.  This  is  the  inland  terminus  of  the  Copper 
River  &  Northwestern  Railway,  a  town  of  494  (1920  census). 
The  Kennecott  copper  mines,  reduction  plants  and  shops  com- 
pose the  town,  in  which  there  is  a  postal  savings  bank,  hospital, 
public  schools,  water  and  lighting  systems.  Potatoes,  ruta- 
bagoes,  hay,  etc.,  are  raised  on  ranches  seven  miles  from 
town. 


120    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    121 


ion,  Alaska 


122    RAND  MCNALLY  >GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

McCarthy  P.  O.  (Shushanna  Jet.).  Located  on  Copper 
River  &  Northwestern  Railway,  19 1  miles  from  Cordova,  and 
surrounded  by  snow-capped  mountains  and  glaciers  which 
excel  in  grandeur  anything  in  Switzerland.  This  town  is  the 
outfitting  point  for  big  game  hunters  going  into  the  White 
River  country,  80  miles  distant.  Principal  scenic  attractions 
hereabout  are  Great  Canyon  of  the  Chittistone  River,  Icy 
Lake,  and  the  Pot  Hole  at  McCarthy.  The  Commercial 
Club  recommends  the  following:  Time  for  sightseeing,  May  ist 
to  October  ist;  fishing,  June  ist  to  October  ist;  hunting  bear, 
April  1 5th  to  June  ist ;  other  big  game  during  open  season,  which, 
north  of  62°  latitude,  opens  August  ist,  and  south  thereof 
August  2oth.  There  are  sheep,  moose,  caribou  and  goat;  also 
some  grizzly  and  black  bear.  Hunting  parties  headed  for 
White  River  country  should  reach  McCarthy  early  in  August. 

Valdez.  Located  at  the  head  of  Port  Valdez  on  the  north 
shore  of  Prince  William  Sound;  population,  466  (1920  census). 
The  ocean  terminus  of  the  Valdez-Fairbanks  auto  road, 
which  at  Willow  Creek  connects  with  the  route  from  Chitina. 
The  scenic  attractions  via  this  route  are  on  a  par  with  those 
on  the  Copper  River  &  Northwestern  Railway  to  Chitina. 
Port  Valdez,  the  most  northerly  ice-free  port  in  Alaska,  is  the 
headquarters  of  gold  quartz  mining  and  industry  and  its  trade 
extends  to  all  the  mines  of  the  numberless  islands  and  inlets 
of  the  sound.  It  is  a  modern  town  with  stores,  banks,  a  good 
water  supply,  electric  lights,  etc. 

Latouche.  Population,  505  (1920  census),  10  per  cent  of 
which  is  native.  It  is  on  the  north  end  of  the  island  of  the 
same  name.  There  are  paved  streets,  a  hotel,  restaurants, 
room-houses,  several  stores,  safe  deposit  bank,  telegraph, 
'phone,  water  and  lighting  systems  and  five  fish  canneries. 
The  garden  patches  in  the  town  raise  every  variety  of  common 
truck. 

Montague  Island,  the  largest  island  in  the  Prince  William 
Sound  group  is  85  miles  by  an  average  width  of  9  miles  and 
entirely  uninhabited  by  reason  of  the  ferocity  of  the  brown 
bear  which  holds  forth  thereon.  It  is  of  the  same  species  and 
aggressive  ferocity  as  the  Stikine  River  (Southeastern  Alaska) 
bear.  Sportsmen  who  would  seek  a  finished  combat  with  this 
particular  fighter  will  find  Latouche  the  logical  starting  point. 
It  is  said,  however,  that  the  Stikine  bear  is  not  hunted  by  the 
best  Indian  hunters. 

Seward.  The  southern  terminus  of  the  government  railroad 
under  construction  to  Matanuska  coal  fields  and  Fairbanks 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     123 

is  located  on  Resurrection  Bay,  a  magnificent  deep  water 
inlet  on  the  south  coast  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula.  It  is  also 
the  starting  point  for  the  steamer  which  makes  monthly  trips 
to  all  the  ports  along  the  Alaska  Peninsula  as  far  as  Unalaska, 
a  distance  of  1,146  miles.  Seward  is  the  outlet  for  the  quartz 
and  placer  mines  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula  and  has  a  valuable 
fishing  industry.  It  is  a  flourishing  town  with  a  population  of 
652  (1920  census),  with  several  hotels,  good  stores,  a  bank, 
good  water  supply  and  electric  lighting  system. 

The  Government  Railroad  in  Alaska  passes  through  540  miles 
of  virgin  country,  full  of  interest  from  a  scenic  standpoint. 
Starting  at  Seward  on  beautiful  Resurrection  Bay,  inclosed 
by  picturesque  mountains  and  evergreen  forests,  the  road 
climbs  the  south  slope  and  crosses  the  Coast  Mountains,  and 
passes  through  an  interior  valley,  following  the  shores  of 
Kenai  Lake,  a  beautiful  body  of  inland  water.  In  the  summit 
district  of  the  Kenai  Mountains  the  road  winds  down  from  an 
elevation  of  1,100  feet  to  sea  level  in  a  long  double  loop,  pass- 
ing very  close  to  gorgeous  glaciers,  through  rocky  tunnels, 
and  in  view  of  mountain  scenery  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of 
the  world.  The  road  skirts  along  the  northern  shores  of 
Turnagain  Arm  with  high  mountains  on  the  one  hand  and  the 
sea  on  the  other,  to  Anchorage,  head  of  navigation  on  Cook's 
Inlet,  and  Government  Railroad  headquarters. 

Leaving  Anchorage,  the  road  pushes  northward  to  Nenana 
and  Fairbanks,  through  the  Matanuska,  Susitna,  and  Tanana 
valleys,  already  awakening  to  their  agricultural  possibilities 
as  evidenced  by  little  farms  springing  into  view.  Two  branch 
lines  take  the  visitor  into  the  coal  fields  around  Chickaloon 
and  the  gold  fields  north  of  Fairbanks. 

The  streams  abound  with  trout,  grayling,  and  white  fish 
beyond  the  fondest  dream  of  anglers,  and  the  caribou,  moun- 
tain sheep,  moose,  and  bear  in  countless  number  roam  the 
northern  slopes  of  the  Alaska  Range,  making  this  section  of 
Alaska  a  paradise  for  sportsmen. 

O'ershadowing  all  other  scenery  in  grandeur  stands  Mount 
McKinley,  nearly  four  miles  high,  visible  for  300  miles  from  the 
railroad,  crowned,  as  it  is,  monarch  of  North  American  moun- 
tains by  eternal  snows. 

Anchorage,  the  third  largest  town  in  Alaska,  is  government- 
owned  with  population,  1,856  (1920  census),  on  Cook  Inlet  at 
Turnagain  Arm.  Practically  every  religious  denomination 
is  represented;  all  the  principal  fraternities  have  chapters  here; 
schools  second  to  none  in  the  Territory;  electric  light,  water, 


124   RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

and  sewer  system,  a  paid  fire  department,  two  banks,  two 
theaters,  daily  newspaper,  and  a  chamber  of  commerce.  The 
average  temperature  of  the  district  for  June- August  is  65°, 
with  an  average  for  these  months  of  sixteen  to  eighteen  hours' 
sunshine  per  day.  The  principal  resource  is  coal.  Vegetables 
and  strawberries  have  generous  yields ;  barley  and  wheat  mature 
and  oats  produce  prolifically.  Rainbow  trout,  Dolly  Varden 
trout,  grayling,  and  white  fish  are  plentiful.  Anchorage  is 
the  trade  center  of  the  Cook  Inlet  and  Susitna  region. 

Points  of  interest:  Spencer  Glacier,  on  Government  Rail- 
road, four  hours  distant,  in  a  picturesque  region;  Old  Kink 
reached  by  launch  in  two  hours;  historic  old  Russian  church. 
The  U.  S.  Government  is  operating  two  coal  mines  fifty-seven 
and  seventy-four  miles  north  of  Anchorage.  The  former  is 
furnishing  coal  for  the  construction  and  operation  on  the 
railroad;  the  latter  for  coal  for  the  Pacific  Fleet  of  the  U.  S. 
Navy. 

Talkeetna.  On  the  U.  S.  Government  Railroad  227  miles 
from  Seward  with  population,  70  (1920  census),  has  telegraph 
and  'phone  service.  On  near-by  farms  are  raised  potatoes, 
turnips,  cabbage,  beets,  carrots,  celery,  peas,  strawberries, 
etc.  The  Cache  district  gold  mines  are  40  miles  west. 

Resurrection  Bay.  Extends  north  and  south  about  16  miles 
with  a  width  of  from  3  to  5  miles.  It  is  mostly  surrounded  by 
high  precipitous  mountains  which  with  certain  exceptions  extend 
to  the  water's  edge. 

Kenai,  population,  332  (1920  census),  is  on  the  east  shore 
of  the  inlet  at  the  mouth  of  Kaknu  River.  It  is  a  center  of 
considerable  fishing  and  agricultural  activity. 

Kodiak  (called  by  the  Russians  St.  Paul),  population,  374 
(1920  census).  It  is  composed  of  Indians,  half-breeds,  Rus- 
sians, and  a  few  Americans,  who  live  in  comfortable  frame 
cottages,  generally  with  a  small  garden  attached.  For  here  is 
a  region  of  birds,  of  blooming  wild  flowers,  of  grasses  and 
groves  of  low  fragrant  spruces,  of  vistas  of  distant  mountains 
capped  with  snow  and  the  usual  Greek  church.  The  people 
fish  and  hunt  the  sea  otter. 

"The  mighty  emerald  billow  that  rises  from  the  rear  of  the 
village!  The  climber  soon  finds  himself  knee  deep  in  ferns, 
grasses  and  a  score  of  flowering  plants.  The  wild  geranium  here 
is  light  blue,  and  on  the  summit  may  be  found  a  most  exquisite 
forget-me-not  of  a  pure  delicate  blue  with  yellow  center,  a  lady's 
slipper,  pale  yellow  striped  with  maroon;  and  here  the  dwarf 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      125 

rhododendron,  and  patches  of  lupine,  bluebells,  Jacob  Ladder, 
iris,  saxifrage,  cassiope,  and  many  others.  And  here  are  numer- 
ous birds,  notably  the  golden-crowned  sparrow,  the  little 
hermit  thrush,  pine  grosbeak,  gray-cheeked  thrush,  and  the 
Oregon  robin." — John  Burroughs. 

Bidarkas.  In  this  region  are  seen  the  first  bidarkas,  small 
boats  made  of  seal  or  walrus  hides  stretched  over  a  light  wooden 
frame.  They  are  made  by  first  constructing  the  frame,  in 
which  there  is  neither  mortise,  tenon,  or  scrap  of  iron — the 
several  parts  being  securely  tied  together  with  sealskin  thongs, 
after  which  the  hides,  properly  prepared  and  sewed  together 
are  stretched  tightly  and  completely  over  the  frame,  except  a 
round  hatch  left  in  the  top  center  for  the  occupant.  Around 
the  projecting  rim  of  this  opening  the  user  ties  the  lower  end 
of  a  waterproof  shirt  made  from  the  intestines  of  the  seal, 
and  which  is  called  a  kamalyka.  This  shirt  is  supplied  with  a 
hood  which  is  drawn  closely  around  the  neck  and  likewise 
secured  at  the  wrists  and  thus  the  water  is  prevented  from 
getting  into  the  body  of  the  boat.  Bidarkas  are  made  in  three 
sizes,  with  one,  two,  and  three  hatches  and  are  called  by  the 
natives  yaks,  bidarka  being  the  Russian  name. 

"From  Kodiak  the  route  extends  through  a  narrow  strait 
between  Kodiak  and  Spruce  Islands  into  Marmot  Bay,  at  the 
head  of  which  are  the  Creole  and  Kanaig  settlement  of  Afognak, 
population,  308  (1900  census),  on  an  island  of  the  same  name. 
At  the  west  end  of  the  narrow  strait  referred  to  is  the  little 
Creole  village  of  Oozinki.  All  the  houses  in  the  Creole  settle- 
ment have  gardens  attached  in  which  the  inhabitants  grow 
their  own  vegetables. 

Leaving  Afognak,  the  course  is  north,  passing  inside  of 
Marmot  Island  and  heading  to  the  westward  of  Barren  Island, 
which  are  located  about  midway  between  Cape  Elizabeth  and 
Cape  Douglas.  Sailing  on  northward,  leaving  Augustine  Island 
and  volcano  to  the  right,  there  is  during  the  day  a  fair  view  of 
Illiamna  and  Redoubt  volcanoes,  the  former  of  which  has  been 
more  or  less  active  for  over  a  hundred  years,  and  has  never 
ceased  to  emit  smoke  and  ashes. 

The  next  important  water  way  encountered,  heading  toward 
the  west  is  Cook  Inlet  wherein  the  tides  are  perhaps  more 
violent  and  rapid  than  at  any  other  point  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
They  at  times  run  at  the  rate  of  8  to  10  miles  an  hour  with  an 
average  rise  and  fall  of  2 5, to  28  feet.  The  distance  from  the 


126     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


entrance  to  the  head  of  the  inlet  is  about  200  miles.     Large 
steamers  dock  at  Anchorage  on  Knik  Arm. 

Alexandrofsky.  At  Graham  Harbor  is  the  old  Russian 
settlement  of  Alexandrofsky,  and  a  few  miles  north  thereof  is 
Seldovia,  population,  258  (1920  census). 

Along  the  coast  from  Cape  Elizabeth  to  Copper  River  on 
the  east,  on  the  islands  of  the  Kodiak  Archipelago  and  along 
the  whole  water  from  way  around  to  where  the  eastern  bound- 
ary line  intersects  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  on  a  large  part 
of  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  are  found  Eskimos  only,  the  Atha- 
baskans  being  hemmed  into  the  interior  at  all  points  save  the 
one  named  above. 

The  waterway  which  separates  Kodiak  and  Afognak  Islands 
from  the  Alaska  Peninsula  is  the  route  the  ships  take  to  Karluk, 
population,  99  (1920  census),  the  seat  of  the  largest  canning 
industry  in  Alaska.  The  scenery  throughout  this  strait  is 
indescribably  grand  and  awe-inspiring. 

Karluk  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name  on  the 
southwestern  side  of  Kod::,k  Island.  Here  are  a  half  dozen 
or  more  canneries. 

The  white  population  of  Karluk  is  augmented  during  the 
canning  season  by  whites  and  Chinamen  who  come  up  from 


Climatic    Regions  of  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    127 

San  Francisco,  Seattle,  etc.,  in  the  early  summer  and  return 
in  the  fall. 

The  Katmai  National  Monument.  This  volcanic  region 
is  in  the  Aleutian  Range,  on  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  facing  on 
Shelikof  Strait,  which  latter  separates  Kodiak  Island  from  the 
mainland. 

Its  boundaries  extend  from  Cape  Kubugakli  (the  south  point 
of  entrance  to  Katmai  Bay),  northwest  32  miles,  thence  north 
26  miles,  east  10  miles,  southeast  52  miles  to  the  shore  of 
Shelikof  Strait,  and  thence  along  the  coast  55  miles  to  place  of 
beginning.  The  area  is  approximately  i,o88,ooor'square  miles. 

"Valley  of  Ten  Thousand  Smokes"  extends  through  the 
center  of  this  region.  The  National  Geographic  Magazine  of 
February,  1918,  says:  " Nothing  approaching  it  has  ever  been 
seen  by  the  eye  of  man  ....  indeed  if  one  could  pick  up 
all  the  other  volcanoes  in  the  whole  world  and  set  them  down 
together,  side  by  side  as  close  as  they  would  stand,  they  would 
present  much  less  of  a  spectacle  —  always  excepting  a  period 
of  dangerous  eruption  —  than  doe^  the  "Valley  of  Ten  Thou- 
sand Smokes"  every  day  in  the  year. 

The  Mount  Katmai  Volcano  is  now  proved  far  exceeding  in 
size  Kilauea  (Hawaii),  the  latter  having  been  considered  the 
greatest  active  crater  on  earth. 

Briefly  the  dimensions  of  the  crater  are:  Width  of  rim, 
3  miles;  circumference  at  highest  point  of  rim,  8.4  miles;  area, 
4.6  square  miles.  The  lake  in  the  bottom  is  1.4  miles  long, 
Ko  wide;  the  precipice  L  n  the  lake  surface  to  highest  point 
of  rim  3,700  feet;  the  cubical  capacity  is  4,500,000,000  cubic 
yards. 

Greater  New  York  uses  525,000,000  gallons  of  water  daily. 
This  crater  filled  would  equal  1,635  days'  supply  for  the 
Metropolis. 

During  the  sixty  hours  of  explosive  activity  in  June,  1912, 
the  amount  of  rock  blown  off  from  the  mountain  was  approx- 
imately 11,000,000,000  cubic  yards  which  is  over  forty  times 
the  amount  of  earth  and  rock  removed  in  the  construction  of 
the  Panama  Canal. 

The  whole  of  this  National  Monument  is  by  no  means  a 
devastated  wilderness.  The  upper  end  of  Naknek  Lake, 
which  extends  within  the  boundary  of  the  park,  lies  between 
Mount  LaGorce,  3,000  feet,  and  Mount  Katolinet,  5,800  feet. 
Lying  parallel  with  Naknek  Lake  are  Grosvenor,  28  miles  long, 
described  as  ''the  most  beautiful  spot  in  Alaska,"  Coville 


128    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

and  Brooks  lakes.  These  lakes  are  among  the  greatest  spawn- 
ing grounds  in  the  world  for  red  salmon  and  breeding  place  of 
innumerable  waterfowl.  There  are  also  in  the  vicinity  white 
fish  and  giant  trout,  and  bears  of  unbelievable  size.  Moose, 
elk,  foxes,  grouse,  swans,  geese,  ducks  are  also  here  in  numbers. 

Unga.  Again  under  way  towards  the  setting  sun  the  ship 
passes  Semidi  Island  and  rounding  the  Shumagin  group  lands  at 
Unga,  population,  313  (1920  census),  a  village  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  island  of  the  same  name  and  the  largest  island 
of  the  Shumagin  group  which  includes  among  others  Popoff, 
on  which  the  principal  cod-fishing  stations  are  located.  Unga 
is  26  miles  in  length  and  about  half  that  width. 

The  Alaska  Peninsula  is  a  most  remarkable  tongue  of  land, 
the  inner  end  of  which  is  marked  by  the  entrance  to  Cook 


"Steve"  Fester's  Hunting  Cabin  in  Lake  Minchumina  Region  of  Alaska 


Inlet  on  the  east  and  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay  on  the  west, 
from  which  points  it  extends  southwesterly  for  nearly  500 
miles  to  the  strait  of  Issannakh. 

Belkofski  on  the  ocean  side  of  Alaska  Peninsula  is  a  pleasant 
looking  hamlet  of  perhaps  seventy-five  frame  houses,  with  an 
impressive  background  of  towering  mountains  covered  to  the 
very  summit  with  a  vestment  of  green.  Here  is  to  be  found 
a  Greco-Russian  church,  perhaps  the  finest  church  edifice  in 
Alaska.  The  population,  129  (census  1900),  includes  about 
an  equal  number  of  Creoles  and  Aleuts.  The  former  are  prin- 
cipally sea-otter  hunters ;  Belkofski  being  the  point  from  where 
the  largest  number  of  these  skins  is  obtained.  The  adjacent 
country  furnishes  a  wide  range  of  excellent  grazing  land,  upon 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  129 

which  there  is  a  natural  growth  of  wild  grasses,  the  luxuriance 
of  which  has  never  been  excelled  on  the  richest  prairies  of 
Illinois  or  Iowa.  During  the  run  from  Unga  to  Belkofski, 
about  70  miles,  there  is  a  splendid  view  of  Pavloff  volcano. 
Skirting  the  east  coast  of  Unimak  Island  on  the  way  to  Una- 
laska  there  is  to  be  had  an  occasional  glimpse  of  Mts.  Shishaldin 
and  Isanotski,  volcanic  peaks  more  or  less  active,  and  credited 
with  an  elevation  of  10,000  feet. 

The  principal  eastern  pass  to  Bering  Sea  lies  between  the 
island  of  Unimak  on  the  northeast  and  Ugamok,  Tigalda,  and 
Akun  on  the  southeast. 

When  the  voyager  shall  have  arrived  at  Unalaska  he  will  have, 
some  idea  of  the  extent  of  the  Alaskan  coast  as  compared 
with  that  of  the  Atlantic,  Lake,  Gulf,  and  Pacific  states.  The 
distance  in  a  straight  line  across  the  continent  from  Eastport, 
Me.,  to  Astoria,  Ore.,  is,  in  round  figures,  2,700  miles.  Astoria 
is  in  longitude  about  123  degrees  west  and  Sitka,  1,000  miles  to 
the  northward,  is  in  longitude  135  degrees,  while  the  193 -degree 
marks  the  western  boundary  of  Alaska.  Sailing  west  by  south 
it  is  nearly  1,500  miles  to  Unalaska,  and  from  thence  at  least 
i  ooo  miles  due  west  to  the  boundary  line,  about  100  miles 
east  of  which  is  the  island  of  Attu,  our  most  westerly  land 
possession.  That  is  to  say,  traveling  in  a  straight  line  from 
the  most  easterly  point  of  the  United  States  to  a  directly  oppo- 
site point  in  Oregon,  the  traveler  could  yet  continue  on  3,000 
miles  further  and  then  finds  himself  in  United  States  territory. 
Traveling  to  the  northward  and  passing  the  600  miles  of  British 
coast  he  would  have  to  cover  not  less  than  4,000  miles  before 
reaching  the  most  northerly  point  of  Alaska.  A  glance  at  the 
map  will  disclose  the  fact  that  Unalaska  is  very  nearly  in  the 
same  longitude  with  East  Cape,  the  most  easterly  point  of  Asia, 
beyond  which  our  possessions  extend  nearly  900  miles. 

Unimak  is  the  most  easterly  of  the  great  Aleutian  chain  of 
islands,  and  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the  unnavigable 
strait  of  Issannakh,  with  Akun,  Ugamok,  Tigaldo,  Akutan, 
Avatanak,  Unalga,  and  a  number  of  the  smaller  islands  lying 
between  it  and.  Unalaska. 

Unalaska,  a  village  with  population,  299  (1920  census),  con- 
sists of  about  fifty  frame  buildings,  a  few  of  quite  generous 
size  and  respectable  outward  appearance.  The  inhabitants 
consist  of  whites,  Creoles,  and  Aleuts,  the  last  named  being 
in  all  respects  superior  to  any  of  the  other  natives  thus  far  met 
with  —  a  naturally  bright  and  quick-witted  people,  with  a  Japan- 
ese cast  of  features  and  undoubtedly  of  Asiatic  origin.  Both 
the  Aleut  and  Russian  authorities  agree  that  before  the  Russian 

10 


130    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

conquest  of  these  islands  on  the  Aleutian  Islands  there  were 
120  villages  with  a  population  variously  estimated  at  from 
15,000  to  25,000. 

The  island  of  Unalaska  is  125  miles  long  and  30  to  50  miles 
wide.  There  is  no  timber  on  the  island  but  this  is  offset  by  a 
wealth  of  nutritious  wild  grasses  in  the  valleys  and  on  the 
mountain  slopes  sufficient  for  the  sustenance  of  as  large  herds 
of  sheep  as  could  be  maintained  on  an  average  equal  to  the 
whole  area  of  the  island.  The  winters  are  not  nearly  so  severe 
as  those  of  the  cattle-growing  states  of  the  northwest,  the 
temperature  rarely  falling  as  low  as  10°  F. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  fish  (salmon,  cod,  halibut,  and  a 
species  of  mackerel  predominating)  in  the  bays  and  rivers  of 
Unalaska  Island,  but  no  fur-bearing  animals  of  consequence. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  the  center  of  the  fur  trade  of  the  Shumagin 
Islands  on  the  east  to  Attu.  It  is  the  port  of  entry  for  all  of 
western  Alaska,  and  is  supplied  with  wharves  and  other  com- 
mercial facilities. 

Dutch  Harbor  is  on  the  eastern  side  of  Unalaska  Island  in 
Captains  Bay  and  is  so  named  from  the  tradition  that  a  Dutch 
vessel  was  the  first  to  enter  it.  It  is  the  coaling  station  for 
steamers  en  route  to  St.  Michael  and  Nome.  The  harbor  is 
an  arm  of  the  Bering  Sea,  600  miles  west  of  Seward,  from 
which  latter  there  is  a  monthly  mail. 

Bogoslof  is  the  small  island  to  the  westward  of  Unalaska. 
History  records  that  on  May  7,  1796,  a  Russian  trader  was 
stopping  temporarily  on  the  northeast  end  of  Umnak  Island,  on 
account  of  storm,  which  abated  on  the  next  day,  during  which 
he  observed  at  a  distance  smoke  arising  out  of  the  sea.  At 
night  great  flames  ascended  and  an  earthquake  shook  the  whole 
island  from  which  the  trader  was  observing  the  phenomenon, 
while  rocks  were  thrown  across  the  intervening  expanse  from 
what  afterwards  was  found  to  be  the  crater  of  a  volcano.  On 
the  morning  of  the  third  day  a  newly  created  island  loomed. 
In  1800  it  had  ceased  to  smoke,  but  fishermen  visiting  its  shore 
found  the  solid  rock  too  hot  to  permit  landing.  It  continued 
to  increase  gradually  both  in  height  and  circumference  until 
1823,  when  it  had  attained  a  height  of  1,000  feet.  After  that 
year  it  gradually  diminished  and  finally  disappeared  in  a  single 
night,  another  islet  of  about  the  same  circumference  making  its 
appearance  about  two  miles  distant.  The  new  Bogoslof  is 
gradually  rising  and  from  it  there  is  a  constant  emission  of 
steam  and  smoke. 

The  Pribilof  (seal)  Islands  are  St.  Paul,  St.  George,  Walrus, 
and  Otter.  St.  Paul,  the  most  northerly,  is  about  230  miles 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON  131 

from  Unalaska;  its  greatest  length  13  miles  and  greatest  width 
about  6  miles.  At  one  time  about  one-half  of  its  40  miles  of 
coast  was  occupied  by  seals. 

St.  Paul,  a  village  with  population,  212  (1920  census),  con- 
sists of  about  100  native  frame  houses,  in  addition  to  which 
there  are  about  a  dozen  company  buildings.  There  is  a  Greco- 
Russian  church,  -priest's  residence,  and  a  finely  appointed 
school  house.  The  resident  inhabitants  of  St.  Paul  and  St. 
George  are  Aleuts.  What  is  true  concerning  the  natives  of 
Unalaska  will  apply  equally  as  well  to  their  brethren  on  the 
Seal  Islands.  They  are  practically  a  civilized  people,  not  in 


Grass  and  Timber  on  Nin  Ridge,  Kechatna  Valley 


the  sense  of  being  fully  educated  but  that  they  are  converts 
to  the  Christian  religion  and  have  adopted  civilized  ways  in 
the  matter  of  dress  and  mode  of  living. 

The  seals  begin  to  arrive  at  the  islands  about  May  ist,  a 
few  bulls  constituting  the  advance.  These  do  not  land  at  once 
but  swim  idly  about  for  some  days  as  if  inspecting  the  land,  or 
possibly  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  others.  From  the  date  of 
the  arrival,  if  the  weather  be  clear,  until  June  ist  the  number  is 
not  materially  increased;  but  if  the  summer  fogs  set  in  earlier, 
then  the  bulls  begin  to  come  by  the  thousands  and  lose  no  time 
in  selecting  and  locating  upon  suitable  ground  which  they 


132    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


- 


guard  and  hold  against  all  new  comers  until  the  cows  arrive  — 
from  two  to  three  weeks  later.  Those  that  come  first  locate 
immediately  on  the  water  line  of  the  breeding  ground,  and 
between  themselves  and  the  newcomers  there  is  a  constant 
fight  for  possession;  those  that  come  latest,  being  the  freshest 
and  strongest,  generally  driving  those  that  preceded  them  farther 
back.  This  continues  until  the  cows  arrive,  every  bull  having 
in  the  meantime  been  obliged  to  fight  a  dozen  or  more  battles 
in  order  to  maintain  the  ground  he  has  chosen ;  the  weaker  ones 
having  been  driven  from  place  to  place  until  all  have  been 
located.  These  seal  pre-emptions  may  be  said  to  cover  a  space 
about  eight  feet  square,  and  the  pre-emptor,  unless  driven  off 
by  a  covetous  bull  stronger  than  himself,  never  leaves  his 
claim  for  a  single  instant  until  the  end  of  the  rutting  season 
which  continues  from  July  ist  to  August  i5th.  From  the 
time  he  hauls  out  in  May,  and  certainly  not  later  than  June  ist, 
he  fasts  continuously  until  the  breaking  up  of  his  harem  in 
August.  Weighing  400  to  600  pounds  when  he  comes  out  of 
the  water,  he  goes  back  into  it  a  mere  skeleton,  and  very 
seldom  returns  to  land  during  the  same  season.  The  cows  begin 
to  come  in  numbers  about  June  2oth  and  before  the  middle  of 
July  the  harems  are  filled,  each  bull  taking  to  himself  all  the 
way  from  ten  to  forty  cows.  The  female  seals  give  birth  to 
their  young  soon  after  their  arrival,  bearing  each  a  single 
pup.  By  the  middle  of  September  the  rookeries  are  entirely 
broken  up,  the  young  seals  have  learned  to  swim,  and  by  the 
end  of  November  they  have,  as  a  rule,  all  departed  from 
the  island.  Whence  they  come  and  where  they  go  is  a  mooted 
question. 

The  killing  of  female  seals  is  prohibited  by  law,  and  of  males 
those  of  from  two  to  four  years  are  considered  the  most  desir- 
able—  the  three-  and  four-year-old  ones  having  the  thickest 
and  finest  fur.  The  males  who  take  and  hold  possession  of 
the  rookeries  are  never  less  than  six  years  of  age,  the  younger 
ones  being  wholly  excluded  from  the  breeding  grounds.  As  a 
consequence,  the  young  male  seals  are  compelled  to  haul  out 
in  places  wholly  separate  and  apart,  sometimes  miles  away 
from  the  rookeries.  These  are  the  ones  doomed  to  slaughter 
those  on  the  breeding  grounds  are  never  disturbed.  During 
May  and  June  herds  of  young  ''bachelor"  seals  haul  up  on  land 
not  very  far  from  the  water's  edge,  when  a  number  of  natives 
quickly  and  quietly  run  along  between  the  surf,  and  the  sleeping 
seals  who,  being  startled  and  seing  their  retreat  to  the  water  cut 
off,  scramble  farther  back.  The  Aleuts  then  walk  leisurely  on 
the. flanks  and  in  the  rear  of  the  drove  and  drive  it,  possibly  a 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     133 

mile,  to  the  killing  grounds.     If  the  weather  is  cool  they  can  be 
driven  at  the  rate  of  a  half  mile  per  hour  —  only  three  or  four 


Historic  Block  House,  Sitka,  Alaska 


men  being  required  to  control  the  movements  of  as  many 
thousands.  These  drives  are  usually  made  in  the  early  morning, 
and  if  the  drive  is  a  long  one,  the  seals  are  permitted  to  halt 


134     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

and  rest.  'Heating  them  injures  the  fur.  The  killing  grounds 
are  near  the  salting  houses  for  convenience  in  handling  and 
shipping.  When  on  a  drive  the  seals  raise  their  bellies  entirely 
from  the  ground  upon  their  flippers,  and  they  can  get  over  the 
ground  with  a  speed  almost  equal  to  that  of  a  greyhound. 

They  are  never  hurried,  however,  for  if  driven  too  fast  they 
crowd  and  bite  each  other  and  injure  their  skins.  After 
reaching  the  killing  ground,  they  are  allowed  time  to  cool  off. 
All  seals  which  are  undesirable  are  singled  out  and  allowed  to 
escape.  The  desirables  are  killed  by  men,  each  armed  with 
a  ''big  stick"  of  hickory  who  drive  out  from  50  to  150  seals 
and  form  what  they  call  a  "pool."  Circling  around  this  pool 
they  narrow  it  down  to  a  huddle  until  the  seals  are  within  reach 
of  their  clubs.  Every  desirable  seal  receives  a  blow  which 
stuns  if  it  does  not  kill  outright.  The  undesirable  are  urged  to 
go  away.  The  insensible  victims  are  quickly  drawn  out, 
placed  on  their  backs  so  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other, 
and  killed  —  all  very  quickly  done,  not  only  to  prevent  a  ''heat- 
ing'' which  causes  the  hair  and  fur  to  peel  off,  but  to  insure  the 
men  against  being  bitten  by  seals  who  have  been  only  half 
killed.  Promptly  following  the  killing  and  bleeding  comes  the 
skinning  which  the  Aleuts  do  with  a  celerity  that  is  marvelous. 
The  native  who  is  unable  to  flay  a  seal  in  less  than  three  minutes 
is  classed  third  or  fourth  in  division  of  the  earnings. 

The  skins  are  taken  to  the  salting  house,  which  is  partitioned 
into  large  bins  called  "kenches,"  into  which  they  are  put,  fur 
side  down  with  a  layer  of  salt  between,  and  where  they  become 
sufficiently  cured  in  a  week's  time.  They  are  then  taken  from 
the  kenches  and  piled  up  into  what  are  called  "books,"  with 
the  addition  of  more  salt,  and  then  finally  prepared  for  shipment 
by  rolling  them  into  compact  bundles  each  containing  two  skins. 
At  the  close  of  the  season  they  are  shipped  to  St.  Louis  where 
they  are  dressed,  plucked,  and  dyed. 

The  Nushagak  is  one  of  the  great  rivers  of  Alaska.  It  has 
its  source  in  the  lake  of  the  same  name  and  empties  into  Nush- 
agak Bay.  Nushagak,  the  settlement,  is  on  this  river  about 
100  miles  from  its  mouth,  which  latter  is  20  miles  in  width. 
The  population,  16  (1920  census),  consists  of  a  trader's  store, 
church  and  parsonage,  a  few  fairly  neat  buildings  occupied  by 
Creoles,  and  a  number  of  subterranean  houses  similar  to  the 
barbararas  already  described  herein. 

The  Kashima.  In  every  Eskimo  village  there  is  a  com- 
mon or  public  house,  known  as  "  Kashima,"  built  after  the  style 
of  the  subterranean  dwellings,  but  larger.  Entrance  is  down 
a  hole  about  six  feet,  then  through  a  low  tunnel,  crawling  ten 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    135 

feet,  then  ascending  to  a  level  with  the  roof  of  the  tunnel  into 
a  room  say  20  feet  square.  A  raised  platform  extends  all  the 
way  round  the  sides  leaving  room  in  the  center  for  an  open  fire 
which  is  built  on  a  bare  square  spot  of  earth  some  three  feet 
below  the  surrounding  platform.  The  platform  is  on  a  level 
with  the  top  of  the  entrance  tunnel,  the  end  of  which  can  be 
opened  at  will  to  permit  persons  to  pass  under  the  platform. 
When  the  fire  is  not  needed  it  is  covered  over  with  planks 
even  with  the  platform. 

In  this  house  the  men  do  all  their  domestic  work,  such  as 
the  construction  of  bidarkas,  sleds,  etc.  Here  are  held  all 
public  meetings;  here  all  public  business  is  transacted.  It  is  also 
open  at  all  times  as  shelter  for  guests  or  visitors  who  are  there 
entertained  instead  of  being  taken  to  private  habitations. 
It  is  the  sleeping  place  for  unmarried  adult  males,  and  is  like- 
wise used  as  a  bath  house,  for  theatrical  performances,  mask 
dances,  etc.  In  the  matter  of  scenic  representations  these 
natives  are  on  a  par  with  the  Chinese.  There  are  combats; 
stuffed  animals  are  moved  about  by  hidden  strings,  devils 
with  masks  with  movable  eyes  are  introduced,  and  wooden 
birds  with  flapping  wings.  The  actors  enter  through  the 
fire-hole. 

The  store  houses,  of  which  there  are  about  as  many  as  there 
are  dwellings,  are  on  posts  ten  feet  high  to  protect  the  contents 
in  each  village  from  the  dogs,  who  devour  anything  they  can 
get  hold  of.  These  storage  boxes  are  about  8  feet  square 
and  the  only  entrance  thereto  is  by  a  small  square  hole  on  one 
side  which  is  reached  by  means  of  a  notched  stick  set  on  end 
which  is  used  as  a  ladder.  In  these  safe  deposit  boxes  are  kept 
their  arrows,  spears,  snow  shoes,  meat,  berries,  fish,  beluga, 
blubber,  oil,  etc. 

There  is  no  recognized  form  of  chieftainship  or  form  of 
government  among  these  people ;  nor  can  they  be  called  a  tribe 
as  commonly  accepted.  This  is  true  of  all  the  so-called  tribes 
of  Alaska;  none  has  distinct  organization.  In  each  settlement 
some  one  man,  by  reason  of  his  wealth  or  superior  skill  and 
bravery,  is  recognized  as  a  sort  of  leader,  and  as  such  his  advice 
and  counsel  are  more  or  less  respected.  But  there  is  no  "  chief  " 
invested  with  any  authority  by  his  people.  The  medicine  men 
(shamans),  who  pretend  to  cure  by  incantations,  exercise  more 
influence  than  self -constituted  chiefs.  They  direct  all  the 
festivals,  dances,  etc.,  in  which  old  and  young  participate 
almost  continuously  during  the  winter  months,  and  by  their 
sorcerous  pretensions  acquire  an  influence  equal  to  absolute 
power  of  life  and  death  to  be  exercised  at  will  against  those  who 


136    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

incur  their  displeasure.  No  such  power  is  recognized  in  a 
chief.  A  judgment  that  a  life  shall  be  taken  is  not  pronounced 
by  a  chief  but  by  the  popular  voice,  and  every  male  adult 
becomes  a  self-appointed  executioner. 

The  region  about  the  Nushagak  River  has  the  appearance 
of  a  high  rolling  prairie  covered  with  rich  verdure.  A  more 
luxuriant  vegetation  or  a  greater  variety  of  wild  flowers  than 
is  to  be  seen  growing  along  the  banks,  wild  timothy,  red  top  and 
blue  point  grasses  waist  high,  as  far  back  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
is  seldom  found  anywhere.  No  western  prairie  before  culti- 


North  America — July  Temperature 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      137 

vat  ion  ever  presented  a  more  inviting  aspect  than  does  this 
wild  stretch  of  treeless  country  with  its  almost  boundless 
billows  of  waving  grass,  thickly  interspersed  with  wild  flowers 
of  almost  every  hue  and  variety. 

There  are  salmon  canneries  on  this  river  which  employ  during 
the  fishing  season  about  150  white  men  and  300  Chinese.  The 
fish  taken  in  this  river  are  the  "king,"  some  of  which  weigh 
over  100  pounds.  The  smaller  rivers  and  lakes  in  this  section 
teem  with  food  fishes  of  various  kinds  —  white  fish,  similar  to 
the  Lake  Superior,  and  trout  similar  in  size  and  appearance 
and  fully  as  fine  flavored  as  those  of  Northern  Michigan  and 
Wisconsin.  What  is  true  here  applies  with  equal  force  to  all 
that  part  of  the  mainland  bordering  on  the  coast  and  the  islands 
lying  in  front  of  it  from  the  southern  boundary  to  Kotzebue 
Sound.  A  few  miles  above  Nushagak  is  a  Moravian  school 
called  "Carmel,"  and  on  the  river  beyond  and  also  scattered 
along  the  sea  coast  are  a  number  of  villages  of  Eskimos  seldom 
visited  by  white  men. 

The  Kuskokwim  is  another  great  river  of  Alaska.  Its  waters 
are  received  from  the  glaciers  on  the  north  stretches  of  the 
Alaska  range  and  reach  the  Bering  Sea  through  Kuskokwim 
Bay.  It  is  9  miles  wide  at  its  mouth  and  is  navigable  for  over 
600  miles  inland. 

The  valley  of  the  Kuskokwim  has  an  area  of  about  50,000 
square  miles,  and  the  snowcapped  mountains  which  frame  it 
are  known  to  contain  rich  gold  deposits.  The  most  important 
metal  of  the  region,  however,  is  cinnibar  (the  principal  ore 
from  which  mercury  is  extracted),  of  which  there  are  great 
deposits  in  the  vicinity  of  Bethel,  the  principal  center  of  that 
part  of  Alaska,  and  the  most  immediately  tangible  asset  of  the 
region  is  salmon  which  every  spring  run  up  the  river  in  great 
schools  to  spawn. 

The  natives  own  the  reindeer  herds  which  range  over  the 
tundra,  and  live  upon  the  flesh  of  the  animals  and  upon  fish. 

Bethel  is  a  settlement  located  about  100  miles  up  the  river, 
consisting  of  50  whites  and  275  natives.  It  is  at  the  head  of 
ocean  navigation  and  it  is  also  the  transfer  point  for  all  mer- 
chandise for  up  river.  Truck  gardens  nearby  produce  all  kinds 
of  vegetables. 

White  inhabitants  of  the  region  drained  by  the  Kuskokwim 
are  probably  less  than  300  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year. 
The  native  population  consists  of  about  1,000  Behring  Sea 
Eskimos. 

Georgetown  is  another  small  white  settlement  on  the  river, 
about  250  miles  from  its  mouth. 


138    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Tokotna  is  at  the  head  of  navigation. 

McGrath.  This  place,  located  near  Tokotna,  has  population, 
90  (1920  census),  and  is  one  of  the  stations  of  the  U.  S.  Govern- 
ment radio  system  of  Alaska. 

Nome,  in  the  Seward  Peninsula,  is  the  trade  center  of  North- 
western Alaska  and  is  the  center  of  a  rich  placer  and  gold 
mining  district.  It  is  reached  by  steamship  during  the  open 
season  of  about  five  months,  the  distance  from  Seattle  being 
2,372  miles.  During  the  winter  months  the  mails  are  carried 
by  dog  teams  from  Seward  and  letters  from  the  States  take 
about  six  weeks  for  delivery.  Population,  852  (1920  census). 

St.  Michael  (called  by  the  Russians  Redoubt  St.  Michael), 
is  on  the  inner  side  of  the  island  of  the  same  name,  lying  near 
the  southeast  shore  of  Norton  Sound.  Population,  371 
(1920  census).  It  is  the  ocean  terminus  of  the  Yukon  River 
steamers.  The  island,  which  embraces  about  12  square  miles, 
is  in  60°  30"  north  latitude,  and  the  surface  is  carpeted  with 
a  most  luxuriant  growth  of  wild  grasses  and  variegated  flowers. 
The  natives  are  Eskimos  —  always  busy  carving  ivory,  making 
baskets,  etc.  The  soil,  a  rich  mold,  is  capable  of  producing  all 
the  vegetables  that  can  be  grown  in  the  extreme  northern 
states.  The  temperature  ranges  from  about — 45°  F.  in  winter 
to  85°  F.  in  summer  —  about  the  same  as  Northern  Minnesota. 
Unalakleet  River  empties  into  Norton  Sound,  about  fifty 
miles  northeast  of  St.  Michael.  Here  is  a  Swedish  mission  and 
an  Eskimo  settlement.  Unalakleet  population,  285  (1920 
census) . 

Port  Clarence,  within  a  short  distance  south  of  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  is  a  coaling  station  from  which  govern- 
ment vessels  and  steam  whalers  are  supplied,  and  here  is  located 
the  principal  reindeer  station  established  by  the  Government, 
with  a  view  of  providing  for  the  necessities  of  the  native  people. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  projecting  from  the  mainland  at  the 
southern  end  of  Bering  Strait,  is  the  most  westerly  point  of  th'e 
continent.  Population,  136  (1920  census).  The  men  and 
women  are  better  looking  than  the  general  run  of  Alaskan 
natives.  The  women  wear  long  hair,  but  the  men  shave  the 
upper  two-thirds,  leaving  a  bare  crown  surrounded  by  just  a 
fringe  of  hair. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  is  in  latitude  65°  30"  and  longitude 
165°  50"  and  lies  nearly  opposite  the  most  easterly  point  of 
Asia.  The  small  area  of  land  lying  at  the  foot  of  a  slope  of 
hills,  as  well  as  the  higher  level,  is  covered  with  verdure,  and, 
surprising  to  say,  a  dozen  different  varieties  of  wild  flowers  of 
as  many  hues  embellish  the  landscape.  Here  the  natives 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    139 

possess  graphite  ornaments,  which  mineral,  they  say,  can  be 
found  in  great  abundance  within  three  miles  of  the  settlement. 
A  few  hours  steaming,  passing  Fairway  Rock,  and  the  vessel 
reaches  what  the  treaty  of  cession  denominates  the  Frozen 
Ocean. 

"  In  this  region  the  tundra  was  of  a  greenish  brown  color  and 
rose  from  a  long  crescent  shaped  beach  in  a  very  gentle  ascent 
to  low  cones  and  bare  volcanic  peaks,  many  miles  away.  This 
is  the  tundra  that  covers  much  of  North  America,  where  the 


Lake  Spenard,  Alaska.     Anchorage  Bathing  Resort 

ground  remains  perpetually  frozen  to  an  unknown  depth, 
thawing  out  only  a  foot  or  so  on  the  surface  during  the  summer. 
Lured  on  by  the  strangeness ,  in  a  few  moments  our  hands  were 
full  of  flowers  which  we  kept  dropping  to  gather  others  more 
taking,  to  be  in  turn  discarded  as  still  more  novel  ones 
appeared.  I  found  myself  very  soon  treading  upon  a  large 
pink  claytonia,  many  times  larger  than  our  delicate  April 
flower  of  the  same  name.  Then  I  came  upon  a  bank  by  a  creek 
covered  with  a  low  nodding  purple  primrose;  then  masses  of 
the  scooting  star  attracted  me,  then  several  species  of  pedi- 
culatis,  then  a  yellow  anemone,  and  many  saxifrages.  There 
were  wild  bees  here  too,  and  bumble  bees  boomed  by,  very 
much  as  at  home.  A  tundra  is  always  wet  in  summer  as  the 
frost  prevents  any  underground  drainage,  but  is  very  uniform 


140    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

and  the  walking  not  difficult  —  moss,  bogs,  grass,  and  flowering 
plants  covered  it  everywhere.  The  Savanna  sparrow  and  the 
Alaska  longspur  were  here,  and  so  were  golden  flowers,  the 
gray-cheeked  thrush,  Townsend  fox  sparrow,  and  Canada  tree 
sparrow." — John  Burroughs. 

The  Midnight  Sun.  Crossing  the  Arctic  Circle,  latitude 
60°  32",  astronomically  determined,  the  course  is  eastwardly, 
heading  towards  Cape  Blossom  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  in  the 
land  of  the  midnight  sun.  There  is  practically  no  night,  only 
four  hours  of  twilight  intervening  between  the  rising  and  the 
setting  of  the  sun,  the  declination  of  which  is  only  about  2 
degrees.  One  can  see  to  read  ordinary  newspaper  print  at 
midnight  without  the  aid  of  artificial  light. 

Capes  Espenberg  on  the  south  and  Kruzenstern  on  the  north 
are  the  head  lands  of  Kotzebue  Sound  and  at  each  there  is  a 
small  native  village. 

Eskimo  Clothing.  A  full  suit  consists  of  parkay,  pantaloons, 
boots,  and  sometimes  includes  a  fur  cap,  but,  except  during 
the  short  season  of  intolerable  summer's  heat,  the  average  Innuit 
goes  bareheaded.  The  parkay  is  usually  double  so  as  to  provide 
fur  inside  and  out.  The  men  wear  one  pair  of  pantaloons,  with 
fur  inside  in  summer,  but  in  winter  have  an  undergarment, 
generally  of  tanned  reindeer  skin.  The  women  wear  two  pairs 
of  pantaloons,  one  made  of  tanned  reindeer  fawn  skin  and  the 
fur  inside,  and  the  other  of  coarser  material  with  the  fur  out- 
side. The  boots  for  winter  wear  are  made  mostly  of  the  skins 
of  reindeer  legs  and  reach  about  half  way  to  the  knees ;  those 
for  summer  are  made  of  hair-seal  skin  with  tops  reaching  above 
the  knee.  The  soles  are  from  the  thick  hide  of  the  old  bull  seal. 

To  protect  the  eyes  against  the  snow  blasts  of  winter  on  the 
one  hand,  and  against  snow  blindness  on  the  other,  they  wear 
goggles  with  wood  where  the  glass  is  in  ordinary  spectacles. 
In  this  bowl  which  covers  the  eye  there  is  simply  a  narrow  slit 
through  which  the  wearer  enjoys  a  wide  range  of  vision.  Hats 
are  worn  only  in  the  extreme  hot  weather  of  July  and  August. 
The  sun  hats  are  carved  out  of  single  blocks  of  wood  with  broad 
oval  brims  in  front,  and  are  generally  ornamented  with  strips 
of  ivory  set  on  edge,  and  upon  which  is  carved  the  totem  of 
the  family  of  which  the  wearer  is  a  member.  They  wear  hose 
made  of  grasses,  closely  and  neatly  braided,  and  which  are 
preferable  to  any  other  in  that  climate.  These  interior  natives, 
as  well  as  those  on  King  Island  and  the  coast,  generally  shear 
the  crown  of  the  head  "tonsure"  style  and  sport  labrets,  some 
of  the  latter  being  of  enormous  size,  though  these  fashions  are 
confined  principally  to  the  males.  Among  the  northern  natives 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      141 


Chickaloon  Coal  Mine,  75  miles  from  Anchorage,  Alaska 

every  male  of  any  consequence  must  have  two  slits  through  the 
lower  lip  —  one  at  each  corner  of  the  mouth  in  which  he  wears 
a  pair  of  labrets  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  cuff  button. 
These  are  generally  made  of  a  kind  of  mottled  stone  resembling 
gray  granite,  of  jade,  of  ivory,  etc.,  varying  in  design,  round, 
square,  oblong;  the  largest  flange  always  worn  outside.  They 
are  worn  as  personal  adornment.  The  women  wear  stone  and 
ivory  ear  trinkets. 

At  Point  Hope,  probably  the  most  barren,  desolate  place 
imaginable,  there  is  the  largest  Eskimo  settlement  on  the 
Arctic  Coast.  Point  Barrow  is  a  low,  flat  sand  pit  that 
projects  eight  miles  from  the  main  coast,  on  which  there  are 
two  native  villages,  Ooglaamie  and  Noowook. 

Point  Barrow,  population,  322  (1920  census),  is  the  summer 
rendezvous  of  the  Arctic  whaling  fleet.  The  Eskimo  whaling 
season  opens  as  soon  as  the  ice  begins  to  break  away  from  the 
shore  in  the  spring  or  early  summer.  During  the  fall  and 
winter  they  hunt  walrus  and  hair-seal. 

Point  Barrow,  the  northernmost  cape,  is  warmer  than  any 
point  in  the  world  as  far  north  of  the  equator,  and  Alaska's 
southern  shores  bordering  the  North  Pacific  Ocean  are  likewise 
warmer  than  any  point  in  the  world  in  similar  latitudes  during 
the  winter  months  as  the  result  of  the  beneficent  influence  of 
the  Japan  Current. 


142      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Norway  alone  can  approach  it  in  these  respects,  but  in  Nor- 
way the  mountain  backbone  runs  parallel  to  the  coast  line, 
its  rivers  are  insignificant  streams,  and  there  is  no  room  for 
extensive  valleys;  while  in  Alaska  the  immense  quadrangle  is 
divided  into  three  zones  by  lofty  mountains  on  more  or  less 
east  and  west  lines  which  leave  between  them  broad  plains, 
through  which  such  streams  as  the  Kuskokwim  with  600  miles 
and  the  Yukon  with  over  2,000  miles  of  navigable  waters 
open  up  its  vast  interior. 


NORTH  AMERICA 

Temperature 

January 

SCALE 


North  America — January  Temperature 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      143 

SKAGWAY  TO   ATLIN,   DAWSON,   FAIRBANKS   AND 
ST.   MICHAEL 

Leaving  Skagway  the  train  begins  at  once  its  climb  to  the 
Summit  of  White  Pass  midst  scenes  of  the  wildest  and  most 
awe  inspiring  grandeur;  and,  as  the  train  continues  its  sin- 
uous climb  along  the  mountain  sides,  one  cannot  help  wonder- 
ing at  the  skill  of  the  engineers  who  were  able  to  build  a 
railroad  through  such  seemingly  inaccessible  country. 

The  indescribable  ruggedness  of  the  country  impresses  upon 
the  visitor  the  tremendous  hardships  and  unparalleled  heroism 
of  the  hardy  pioneers  who  blazed  the  trails  and  opened  up  the 
vast  country  now  yielding  such  delights  in  scenery  and  hinting 
at  so  much  commercial  promise. 

On  the  way  to  the  summit  the  train  passes  many  points  of 
unusual  scenic,  as  well  as  historic,  interest.  Looking  back 
down  the  valley  from  Rocky  Point,  a  splendid  view  is  had  of 
Skagway  and  Lynn  Canal. 

Then  come  into  view  the  "hanging  rocks"  at  Clifton,  under 
which  the  train  passes.  Beyond  are  the  Pitch  Fork  Falls  —  a 
scene  of  rare  beauty.  On  the  other  side  of  the  valley  are  the 
Bridal  Veil  Falls. 

About  thirteen  miles  from  Skagway,  down  in  the  valley,  may 
be  seen  a  few  log  cabins  —  all  that  remain  of  what  was  once 
known  as  White  Pass  City.  During  the  Klondike  rush  this 
ephemeral  town  contained  about  3,000  people,  living  mostly 
in  tents. 

Glacier  Gorge  is  next,  which  the  train  follows,  but  over  1,000 
feet  above  it.  As  the  train  r '  imbs  Tunnel  Mountain  a  wonderful 
panorama  of  scenery  is  u.  .xolded — the  Sawtooth  Mountains, 
Dead  Horse  Gulch,  and  deep,  deep  down  the  rushing  glacier 
stream  with  here  and  there  glimpses  of  the  old  White  Pass  trail. 

Seventeen  miles  from  Skagway  by  rail,  but  only  twelve  in  an 
air  line,  is  Inspiration  Point.  A  truly  inspiring  panorama  of 
Alaska's  matchless  scenery  is  beheld  from  here. 

Just  before  the  Summit  is  reached  the  train  crosses  the  steel 
cantilever  bridge,  215  feet  above  the  rushing  mountain  stream. 
Twenty  miles  from  Skagway  is  the  Summit  of  the  White  Pass. 
Here  under  the  stars  and  stripes  and  the  Union  Jack  a  bronze 
monument  marks  the  boundary  between  Alaska  and  British 
Columbia.  Here  are  located  United  States  and  Canadian 
Customs  Officers. 

Lake  Bennett.  Along  the  shores  of  lakes  and  mountain 
streams  the  train  continues  on  its  way  until  the  upper  end  of 
Lake  Bennett  is  reached,  and  the  now  deserted  town,  also  named 
Bennett.  Time  was  when  it  teemed  with  life  and  excitement, 


144      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


arnman 
Baskets  Made  by  Aleutians,  Atka  Island,  Alaska 

when  thousands  of  men  were  building  all  manner  of  water 
craft  to  sail  down  the  Yukon  to  the  gold  land  of  their  hopes, 
the  Klondike.  Here  the  train  stops  for  luncheon. 

Lake  Bennett  is  a  long  narrow  sheet  of  blue,  bounded  by 
mountains  of  old  rose  color.  As  the  train  approaches  Carcross, 
the  traveler  crosses  the  most  northerly  swing  bridge  on  the 
American  continent,  built  over  the  outlet  of  Lake  Bennett  into 
Nares  Lake.  For  twenty-seven  miles  the  railway  follows  the 
ever  winding  shores  of  this  lake.  En  route  the  60°  of  north 
latitude  is  crossed,  the  boundary  between  British  Columbia 
and  the  Yukon  Territory. 

Carcross,  Y.  T.  is  located  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Bennett.  Here 
connection  is  made  with  the  steamer  of  the  White  Pass  & 
Yukon  Route  for  Lake  Atlin. 

Atlin  is  located  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Atlin  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  British  Columbia.  The  route  to  Atlin  is 
through  a  chain  of  narrow  mountain  girt  lakes  to  Taku  Land- 
ing. Here  portage  of  two  miles  by  rail  is  made  to  the  west 
shore  of  Lake  Atlin  where  another  steamer  is  boarded.  A 
distance  of  six  miles  and  the  town  of  Atlin  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Atlin  is  reached.  Atlin  is  the  supply  point  for  the  placer 
gold  mines  located  in  this  district.  The  discovery  of  gold  near 
Atlin  in  1898  made  this  district  known  to  miners,  but  it  did 
not  become  known  to  tourists  until  some  years  later,  and 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      145 

now  the  fame  of  Lake  Atlin,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  lakes  in 
the  world,  has  spread  far  and  wide. 

The  lake  is  over  80  miles  long.  At  the  extreme  upper  end 
is  the  great  Llewellyn  Glacier  —  which  with  its  various  arms  is 
about  50  by  75  miles  in  area. 

One  of  the  features  of  the  trip  to  Lake  Atlin  is  the  excursion 
trip  to  Llewellyn  Glacier,  about  40  miles  from  the  town  of 
Atlin,  through  a  series  of  narrow  passages  walled  in  by  moun- 
tains, many  of  them  snow  crowned  throughout  the  summer. 
And  when  the  water  is  smooth,  as  it  frequently  is  in  these 
passages,  there  may  be  seen  the  most  wonderful  and  perfect 
reflections  imaginable.  A  splendid  tourist  hotel  is  located  on 
the  shores  of  the  lake  in  the  town  of  Atlin.  There  are  many 
points  of  interest  in  and  around  Atlin,  including  the  Indian 
village  gold  placer  mine,  fox  farms,  warm  springs,  etc. 

Whitehorse,  Y.  T.  is  a  busy  little  city  of  600  people,  located 
on  the  west  bank  of  Fiftymile  River.  Near-by  there  are 
interesting  copper  mines.  As  at  Skagway  there  is  excellent 
hotel  accommodation.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  railway 
division  of  the  White  Pass  and  Yukon  Route  —  the  point  of 
departure  for  the  trip  down  the  Yukon  River  to  Dawson. 

When,  shortly  after  this  railway  was  finished  over  the  White 
Pass,  Burton  Holmes  took  in  this  region,  he  said  among  other 
things,  "Where  the  pioneers  dragged  their  bleeding  feet  up  the 
icy  stairways  of  the  White  Pass  or  .the  Chilkoot,  we  rolled  in  all 
the  luxury  of  railway  cars  and  within  sight  of  the  death-dealing 
rapids,  through  which  their  boats  were  steered,  with  the  fear 
of  death  for  pilot,  we  glided  smoothly  over  rails  of  steel,  coming 
from  Skagway  on  the  coast  to  Whitehorse  City,  on  the  Upper 
Yukon  as  comfortably  and  as  expeditiously  as  we  could  travel 
from  New  York  to  Boston." 

The  trip  by  rail  from  Carcross  follows  more  rivers,  and  pass- 
ing little ;  lakes  stops  at  Miles  Canyon.  About  five  miles 
beyond,  the  trip  by  rail  comes  to  end  at  Whitehorse  on  the 
Fiftymile  River,  in  miles  from  Skagway.  Connection  is 
made  here  with  the  steamers  of  the  White  Pass  &  Yukon 
Route  for  Dawson. 

DOWN   THE   YUKON 

Whitehorse,  the  northern  terminus  of  the  White  Pass  & 
Yukon  Railroad,  is  two  miles  below  the  famous  Whitehorse 
Rapids,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Yukon  River.  From 
here  the  traveler  will  board  a  steamer  of  the  type  seen  on  the 
Mississippi  River  and  will  find  all  the  comforts  to  be  had  on 
the  best  of  our  boats  that  ply  the  rivers  of  the  United  States. 

11 


146    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


From  Whitehorse  to  Dawson  is  a  trip  of  461  miles  and  takes 
about  48  hours.  The  scene  is  ever  interesting.  The  river  is  tor- 
tuous and  rapid.  There  are  terraced  hills  clothed  with  spruce, 
aspen,  and  wild  flowers.  Then  a  bit  of  open  country,  the 
meadows  gay  with  more  wild  flowers.  Then  the  river  cuts 
its  way  through  the  spurs  of  mountains,  ramparts,  and  gorges. 
Here  and  there  small  Indian  camps  are  passed,  the  women 
busily  engaged  in  drying  salmon.  Stops  are  made  occasionally 
at  the  telegraph  stations  along  the  river,  and  at  the  wood 
camps,  where  wood  is  taken  on  as  fuel.  Sometimes  a  bear,  a 
caribou,  or  a  moose  may  be  seen  swimming  across  the  river  or 
standing  on  the  bank  apparently  posing  for  a  picture. 

The  trip  is  unusually  restful.  The  air  is  fresh  and  invigor- 
ating. The  boats  are  modern  and  very  comfortable.  The 
staterooms  are  commodious  and  scrupulously  clean.  Should 
the  weather  be  unfavorable  the  tourist  may  view  the  scenery 
from  his  chair  in  the  spacious  observation  room. 

There  are  many  points  of  interest  on  the  voyage.  The 
tortuous  Thirtymile  River,  where  navigation  in  this  North- 
land is  seen  at  its  best.  Cassiar  Bar,  where  gold  placer  mining 
was  first  done  in  the  Yukon  country  in  the  early  8o's,  and 
up  on  the  mountain  side  near-by  lies  buried  one  of  the  discov- 
erers. Tantalus  Butte,  now  to  the  left,  now  to  the  right, 
sometimes  ahead  and  again  astern.  Five  Finger  Rapids,  Rink 
Rapids,  FortJSelkirk,  near  the  site  of  the  old  Hudson's  Bay 
Post,  destroyed  by  the  Indians  in  1851.  Victoria  Rock  so 
named  on  account  of  resembling  the  profile  of  Queen  Victoria. 
The  Pelly  Ramparts,  and  other  interesting  points. 


Fifty-six  Shovel-nose  Pike,  Weighing  from  Ten  to  Twenty  Pounds,  Taken  by 
Trolling  in  Four  Hours,  Lake  Minchumina,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    147 

The  route  is  down  the  upper  section  of  the  Yukon  River 
known  as  the  Lewis  River  and,  as  far  as  Lake  LeBarge,  often 
spoken  of  as  the  Fiftymile  River;  a  2 8 -mile  trip  through  a  flat 
country  to  Lake  Le  Barge. 

Lake  LeBarge,  Y.  T.,  is  a  beautiful  lake,  thirty  odd  miles  in 
length,  and  it  is  over  this  lake  that  the  early  supplies  are  carried 
on  the  ice  in  the  spring  from  White  Horse  to  the  steamers  lying  in 
wait  at  their  winter  quarters.  They  in  turn  distribute  down 
the  rivers  as  soon  as  the  ice  goes  out,  the  first  fresh  goods 
arriving  in  the  country  since  the  close  of  navigation.  It  is  here, 
at  the  foot  of  Lake  LeBarge  and  at  the  head  of  the  swift  Thirty- 
mile  River,  where  many  wrecks  occurred  in  days  gone  by, 
that  ''The  Cremation  of  Sam  McGee"  took  place  in  the  book 
"The  Spell  of  the  Yukon,"  which  made  the  author  famous. 

Hootalinqua,  Y.  T.  Thence  the  steamer  traverses  the  swift, 
crooked  Thirtymile  River  to  the  junction  with  the  Hootalinqua 
(often  called  the  Teslin  River),  where  there  is  a  small  trading 
post  called  Hootalinqua.  Up  this  river,  which  drains  Teslin 
Lake,  is  a  great  country  for  the  big  game  hunter,  including 
moose,  caribou,  sheep,  and  bear;  fish,  grouse,  and  water  fowl. 

From  Hootalinqua  down  the  river  is  27  miles  to  Cassiar 
Bar  where  men  worked  pay-dirt  out  in  1886.  The  traveler  in 
his  conversation  with  the  old  timers  in  the  country  will  be  told 
again  and  again  of  the  famous  Cassiar  diggings. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Salmon  River  is  the  next  stop,  a 
post  where  extensive  tradine  is  done  with  the  natives  for  fur 
and  where  the  prospectors  and  those  mining  on  the  Big  Salmon 
can  get  supplies.  Gold  was  first  found  on  this  river  in  1881 
by  four  miners  who  had  made  their  way  over  Chilkoot  Pass 
at  the  head  of  Lynn  Canal  and  down  the  Lewis  River. 

Still  further  down  is  another  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Little  Salmon,  and  further  on  is  Carmack.  Near  here  are  the 
coal  mines  that  today  are  producing  coal ;  also  stores  and  the  first 
barracks  of  the  Royal  Northwest  Mounted  Police  since  leaving 
Whitehorse,  for  it  is  at  this  place  that  the  winter  trail  from 
Whitehorse  to  Dawson  first  touches  the  Yukon  after  leaving 
it  a  few  miles  below  Whitehorse.  This  winter  trail  makes 
many  short  cuts  to  reduce  the  distance  between  the  two  points. 

Carmack,  Y.  T.  The  village  was  named  after  George  W. 
Carmack,  a  squaw  man,  found  living  with  the  natives  at  the 
mouth  of  Klondike  River  in  1896.  Robert  Henderson  who  had 
discovered  gold  on  Indian  River  advised  Carmack  to  cross 
over  the  low  divide  into  what  afterwards  proved  to  be  waters 
of  the  Klondike  River  and  prbspect  for  gold.  In  the  event 
of  making  a  find  Carmack  was  to  have  sent  a  native  back  to 


148      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Grown  at  Fairbanks,  Alaska 


inform  Henderson  that  he  might  stake.  This  was  the  custom 
of  the  country. 

Carmack  went  as  advised,  struck  rich  pay  on  Bonanza  Creek 
a  tributary  to  the  Klondike,  the  first  strike  made  in  the  Klon- 
dike in  1896.  He  did  not  notify  his  benefactor.  Henderson 
kept  working  on  Gold  Bottom  in  ignorance  of  Carmack 's  strike 
until  the  whole  country  was  staked  by  men  who  had  stam- 
peded there  from  Fortymile  diggings,  at  which  place  they 
discovered  Carmack  recording  his  find  with  the  Government. 

Five  Finger  Rapids,  Y.  T.,  is  the  next  place  of  interest.  Here 
many  outfits  were  lost  in  the  early  days  during  the  mad  rush 
to  the  Klondike.  On  account  of  the  numerous  accidents  the 


Glacier  City,  Kantishna,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    149 

Canadian  Government  took  early  steps  to  remove  these 
obstructions  and  also  many  of  the  most  dangerous  rocks  far- 
ther down. 

Thus  far,  the  Yukon  scenery  is  ever  varying;  first,  open 
flat  country  with  the  mountains  visible  on  either  side; 
then  closing  in  until  they  form  the  near  banks  of  the  river. 
Now  a  long  stretch  of  gravel  terraces,  then  high  cliffs  of  varied 
colored  rocks.  Further  on  there  are  strata  of  ash  of  possible 
volcanic  origin,  running  along  the  sides  of  the  bare  hills.  There 
are  growths  of  spruce  and  willows  —  in  many  places  hanging  out 
over  the  rivers,  called  " sweepers,"  and  to  the  unwary 
traveler  in  a  small  boat  who  allows  himself  to  be  carried  in  to 
them  very  dangerous. 

Rink  Rapids,  Y.  T.  Five  miles  below  Five  Fingers  the  stream 
flows  through  Rink  Rapids.  To  the  writer  who  has  traveled 
it,  the  Yukon  seems  one  continual  rapids  from  Five  Fingers 
until  Rink  Rapids  have  been  passed.  Here  the  river  is  white 
from  passing  swiftly  over  the  boulders  below. 

The  steamer  soon  passes  Yukon  Crossing,  at  which  place  the 
winter  trail  from  Whitehorse  to  Dawson  crosses  the  Yukon. 

Old  Fort  Selkirk,  Y.  T.,  the  next  stop,  is  identified  with  the 
history  of  this  country.  It  was  here  that  Mr.  Robert  Campbell 
located  this  trading  post  in  June,  1848,  having  come  into  the 
country  over  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  the  Mackenzie  waters. 

During  the  early  rush  to  the  Klondike  the  Canadian 
Northwest  Mounted  Police  had  a  force  here.  Their  duty  was 
to  keep  track  of  the  movements  of  each  and  every  one  that 
entered  the  Yukon  Territory,  looking  after  them  in  every  way, 
and  they  did  it. 

The  Pelly  River,  which  joins  its  waters  with  those  of  the 
Yukon  on  the  right  " limit"  of  the  river,  opposite  Fort  Selkirk, 
finds  its  source  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  commonly  spoken 
of  here  as  the  "  Mackenzie  Mountains."  By  traveling  in  boat 
up  this  river  one  can  reach  one  of  the  finest  big  game  countries 
in  the  North,  either  by  staying  with  the  Pelly  River  itself, 
or  by  going  up  its  left  fork,  the  Macmillan.  Here  is  an  ideal 
country  for  hunting  the  moose,  caribou,  sheep,  and  bear;  also 
good  fishing  and  grouse  and  water  fowl. 

After  leaving  Fort  Selkirk  the  next  stream  is  the  White 
River  with  its  source  in  the  St.  Elias  Mountains.  At  its  head, 
which  is  swift  and  dangerous  to  navigation,  have  been  many 
strikes,  both  in  copper  and  gold,  and  several  stampedes  have 
been  made  there  at  different  times  during  the  past. 

Many  big  game  hunters  go  every  year  into  this  country  from 
Whitehorse,  or  from  McCarthy,  on  the  Copper  River  Railroad 


150    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Entrance  to  Wrangell  Narrows 

in  Alaska.  Here  are  to  be  found  all  of  the  big  game  animals 
common  to  the  North  and  in  such  numbers  that  the  huntsman 
is  sure  to  have  his  bag  full  of  the  trophies  he  has  selected 
from  the  many  before  killing.  Willing  guides  with  full  equip- 
ments may  be  had  at  either  of  the  points  mentioned  above, 
but  arrangements  should  be  made  a  considerable  time  in 
advance. 

The  traveler  must  not  feel  surprised  when  he  sees  or  is  told 
of  the  different  farms  existing  along  the  Yukon  and  its 
tributaries. 

Here  are  6,000  square  miles  of  farm  land  waiting  for  a 
market  which  will  come  as  the  country  is  settled  up  and  its 
vast  mineral  resources  developed. 

The  next  river  is  the  Stewart.  It  was  discovered  by  and 
named  after  James  G.  Stewart  in  1849  while  hunting  for  natives 
who  were  out  trapping  and  hunting.  The  Stewart  and  its  left 
fork,  the  McQuestion,  have  been  and  are  still  great  producers 
of  gold. 

Active  mining  began  on  the  Stewart  River  in  1885,  and  the 
run  averaged  about  $100  per  man  per  day  in  summer. 

Ogilvie,  Y.  T.  The  next  place  of  interest  is  Ogilvie,  one  of 
the  first  posts  established.  It  was  here  that  prospectors  bought 
supplies  which  they  used  in  developing  this  great  gold  country. 
Opposite  Ogilvie  the  Sixtymile  River  joins  the  Yukon,  its 
source  being  near  the  head  of  the  Fortymile  River.  The 
Sixtymile  River  located  as  it  is  in  the  heart  of  this  great  gold 
belt  has  been  a  good  steady  producer. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      151 

Next  we  have  the-  Indian  River  which  enters  the  Yukon  on 
the  rirfit  limit  next  above  the  Klondike  River.  Up  the  Indian 
River  are  some  of  the  richest  creeks  ever  found  in  the  Klondike 
district  and  these  helped  greatly  in  the  production  of  $ioo,boo,- 
ooo  that  was  taken  out  from  this  district  between  1898  and 
1905. 

Dawson,  Y.  T.  Arriving  at  Dawson  the  visitor  will  find  a  city 
that  in  the  rush  of  '97  and  '98  sprang  up,  as  it  were,  over  night 
with  people  from  all  parts  of  the  world  brought  there  by  the 
news  of  the  rich  strike. 

Located  at  the  junction  of  the  Klondike  and  Yukon  rivers, 
it  is  the  metropolis  of  the  Klondike,  and  the  educational' and 
financial  center  of  Yukon  Territory.  Population,  2,000.  Mining 
is  the  chief  attraction  to  all  visitors,  in  view  of  which  the  Yukon 
Development  League  has  permission  from  the  large  operators 
for  visitors  to  be  shown  the  mining  operations  in  every  detail. 
The  mammoth  dredges  dig  and  pass  through  their  machinery 
10,000  to  20,000  cubic  yards  of  gravel  per  day,  and  the  giant 
water  nozzles  on  the  hydraulic  operations  sluicing  down  banks 
of  gravel  200  and  300  feet  high  at  3,000  cubic  yards  per  nozzle 
per  day,  which  passes  at  terrific  speed  through  the  sluice  boxes, 
separating  the  gold  from  the  gravel  during  the  process. 

Good  roads  facilitate  speedy  trips  to  all  the  famous  gold- 
bearing  creeks,  along  which  the  dredges  and  nozzles  may  be 
comfortably  viewed  from  the  car. 

The  agricultural  possibilities  of  the  territory  are  not  incon- 
siderable. The  grain  crop  is  increasing,  almost  every  known 
vegetable  is  grown  successfully,  and  the  fur  catch  is  increasing; 
15,000  acres  are  now  held  under  the  Homestead  Regulations 
and  30,000  acres  have  been  purchased  outright.  The  Mayo 
District  is  said  to  have  4,800  square  miles  of  silver-lead  deposits. 

Considerable  development  work  has  been  done  in  this  dis- 
trict and  some  very  rich  silver-lead  ore  uncovered.  Several 
thousand  tons  of  this  ore  were  shipped  to  the  smelter  at  Tacoma 
during  1921.  The  indications  are  the  Mayo  Camp  will  be 
not  only  a  rich  silver-lead  camp  but  an  extensive  one  as  well. 

Here  are  all  the  government  buildings  and  the  different 
departments  of  the  Yukon  territory;  fine  schools,  churches, 
a  Carnegie  library;  homes  built  with  all  the  comforts  of 
modern  homes  in  the  States,  and  as  the  traveler  strolls  about 
the  city,  he  will  be  shown  the  cabin  which  is  surrounded  with 
flowers  and  kept  up  in  memory  of  Service,  the  great  writer  of 
the  Yukon,  who  made  this  his  home  in  the  early  days.  One 
can  auto  into  the  gold-bearing  creeks  where  there  is  every 
modern  device  used  by  large  corporations;  in  working  over 


152    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

the  old  diggings  everything  being  worked  out  scientifically  to 
get  all  the  gold  that  was  left  by  the  miners  in  the  early  days 
who,  on  account  of  the  wasteful  methods  and  the  great  expense 
of  operations,  could  only  work  out  the  rich  pay  dirt. 

The  American  Express  Company  operates  over  the  White 
Pass  &  Yukon  Route  and  carries  on  a  general  express  busi- 
ness, issues  money  orders,  makes  collections,  carries  gold  dust, 
bullion,  coin,  currency,  valuable  papers,  etc. 

The  commercial  telegraph  service  is  maintained  by  the 
White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  between  Skagway  and  Whitehorse. 
In  addition  the  United  States  and  Canadian  governments 
maintain  a  commercial  telegraph  service  reaching  most  of  the 
coast  and  interior  points,,  especially  those  along  the  lines  of 
the  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  and  the  American  Yukon 
Navigation  Company. 

Fortymile,  Y.  T.  The  next  stop  below  Dawson  is  at  the 
junction  of  the  Fortymile  and  the  Yukon  rivers.  At  this  point 
is  located  the  barracks  of  the  Royal  Northwest  Mounted  Police 
and  the  Canadian  Customs.  This,  in  days  gone  by,  was  the 
chief  post  of  the  North  American  Transportation  &  Trading 
Company,  called  Fort  Cudahy  after  its  owner,  a  company 
organized  for  trading  purposes  and  transportation,  having  posts 
the  length  of  the  Yukon  River  to  St.  Michael,  where  they 
received  their  freight  from  ocean  liners  and  distributed  it  with 
their  own  steamers  to  their  posts. 

The  Fortymile  country,  located  up  the  river  by  the  same 
name,  has  been  a  steady  producer  ever  since  it  was  struck  in 
1885-86.  The  river  itself  was  a  hard  one  to  navigate  (on 
account  of  the  swift  waters  and  canyons)  for  the  men  who  had 


Indians  at  Lake  Minchumina,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON     153 


Top — Where  Land  and  Water  Transportation  Meet  at  Anchorage,  Alaska 
Bottom — Chiznik,  Alaska  Peninsula 


154       RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

to  get  their  supplies  up  it  in  polling  boats.  In  these  same 
canyons  every  year  men  work  the  bars  after  the  high  water  and 
each  year  it  would  seem  a  fresh  supply  of  gold  is  taken  down  on 
the  high  waters.  Many  men  have  been  working  these  bars, 
making  a  good  living  and  laying  aside  a  little  for  the  future, 
ever  since  the  camp  was  struck.  In  this  section  are  creeks 
tributary  to  the  Fortymile  that  have  been  good  producers. 

Eagle.  Passing  down  this  most  beautiful  stretch  of  the 
Yukon  we  cross  the  Alaska-Canadian  boundary  line  12  miles 
above  Eagle.  At  Eagle,  population,  98  (1920  census) ,  we  find  the 
American  Customs  and  see  the  old  abandoned  Fort  of  Egbert 
where  for  years  United  States  soldiers  were  kept  to  guard 
our  customs.  This  post  was  abandoned  in  1911.  Here  we 
also  find  stores  that  supply  the  miners  of  the  Seventymile 
River  and  other  numerous  streams  in  this  section  of  Alaska. 

Caribou  Run.  Every  September  large  bands  of  Caribou 
cross  this  section  of  the  Yukon,  on  what  is  known  as  the  great 
* '  Caribou  Run . ' '  For  about  two  weeks  they  cross  continuously , 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  them.  Steamers  have  had  to  tie  up 
for  hours  at  times  when  there  was  an  extra  large  band  crossing. 
No  one  seems  able  to  explain  this  run,  where  they  all  come 
from  or  where  they  all  go.  They  often  pass  through  the  towns 
and  on  account  of  their  numbers  seem  to  be  insensible  to  fear. 

Circle,  population,  98  (1920  census),  maintains  the  stores  of 
the  Northern  Commercial  Company.  It  is  on  the  trail  to 
Fairbanks  used  by  the  United  States  mail  in  winter,  and  to 
supply  the  mining  industry  in  the  country  lying  between  Circle 
and  the  rich  diggings  of  the  Fairbanks  country  on  the  Tanana 
River.  Along  the  trail  are  roadhouses  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  traveler.  About  40  miles  back,  near  Medicine  Lake,  is 
the  Circle  Hot  Springs  with  fair  accommodations.  In  this 
vast  country  good  hunting  is  to  be  had  for  moose,  caribou,  bear 
and  sheep.  Also  grouse  and  water  fowl. 

Fort  Yukon  is  the  next  stop;  population,  319  (1920  census). 
Here  the  midnight  sun  can  be  observed  in  June.  Here  also 
are  the  large  Episcopalian  Indian  Mission  and  Indian  school, 
and,  as  at  Eagle  and  Circle,  a  United  States  Government 
wireless  station.  To  this  place  come  the  trappers  and  fur 
traders  from  the  Porcupine  country  and  the  Chandelar  coun- 
try, in  fact  from  all  points  of  the  compass  to  sell  and  ship 
their  furs.  Fort  Yukon  was  first  started  in  1847  by  Mr.  A.  H. 
Murry  and  it  was  here  that  Mr.  J.  Bell  in  1846  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Porcupine  River  and  was  told  by  the  natives 
that  the  large  river  he  was  about  to  enter  was  the  Yukon. 
Here  the  Yukon  opens  out  for  miles  in  a  great  flat  known 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      155 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Indian  River  near  Sitka,  Alaska 

as  "the  Yukon  Flats."  The  river  is  some  60  miles  wide, 
filled  with  large  gravel  bars  and  islands  and  is  known  as  one 
of  the  greatest  breeding  grounds  in  the  world  for  water  fowl. 

Up  the  Chandelar  River,  which  runs  into  the  Yukon  a  few 
miles  below  Fort  Yukon,  there  are  some  placer  diggings. 
This  river  drains  from  the  Arctic  Slope.  Until  the  winter 
of  1906-07  the,  only  communication  that  the  miners  in  the 
Koyukuk  country  had,  after  the  freeze-up  in  the  fall  until  the 
break-up  in  the  spring  was  the  United  States  mail  packed  in 
from  Fort  Yukon  up  the  Chandelar  River  and  over  the  divide 
to  Coldfoot  once  a  month.  This  often  consisted  o'  what  one 
man  packed  on  his  back  and  himself  on  snowshoes.  The  mail 
accumulating  all  winter  at  Fort  Yukon  would  be  picked  up  by 
first  steamer  in  the  spring  and  then  taken  down  the  Yukon 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuk  River  and  up  on  the  steamer 
making  trips  on  that  river  in  the  summer.  Today  the  mail 
goes  into  that  country,  once  a  month  from  October  until  May, 
from  Tanana. 

There  is  a  trail  with  cabins,  constructed  from  Beaver  City 
in  the  Yukon  Flats  to  Cairo,  a  trading  post  on  the  Chandelar 
River,  where  miners  get  their  supplies.  Over  this  trail  in  winter 
many  miners  who  purchase  their  supplies  at  Beaver  City  sled 
them  to  the  grounds  they  are  working  or  prospecting.  This  trail 
was  cut  and  the  cabins  built  by  the  miners.  The  contents  were 
put  there  by  the  miners,  and  stoves  and  such  equipment 
necessarv  for  the  traveler  are  in  each.  All  travelers  are  welcome 


156    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

to  use  the  same;  but  a  warning  to  all:  Always  leave  fuel  and 
shavings  when  you  depart,  as  this  is  the  custom  of  the  country; 
for  by  so  doing  you  may  save  the  lives  or  forfeit  the  lives  of 
others  that  may  have  struck  a  storm  or  had  an  accident. 

Rampart.  After  leaving  Beaver  City  and  the  Yukon  Flats, 
and  then  one  of .  the  most  beautiful  stretches  of  the  Yukon, 
we  come  to  Rampart ,  population,  121  (1920  census),  the  old 
home  of  Rex  Beach,  and  the  distributing  point  for  the  various 
creeks  which  for  years  have  produced  gold.  The  U.S.  Govern- 
ment has  an  experimental  farm  at  this  place.  -  From  Rampart 
there  is  a  road  that  leads  through  the  creeks  of  this  camp  over 
to  the  Hot  Springs  diggings  on  the  Tanana. 

Continuing  down  the  river  through  Rampart  Rapids  the 
next  stop  is  at  Tanana  and  Fort  Gibbon  adjacent  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Tanana  River,  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Yukon. 

At  the  junction  of  the  rivers  on  the  right  limit  of  the  Yukon 
lies  the  Mission  of  St.  James,  Episcopalian.  Chiefs  in  charge 
of  the  near-by  tribes  make  this  a  general  meeting  place  for  the 
natives  who  are  more  distant  and  only  come  in  for  supplies 
about  Christmas  time. 

Tanana,  population,  213  (1920  census),  is  a  transfer  point 
for  passengers  and  freight  from  St.  Michael,  Fairbanks,  Daw- 
son,  and  Whitehorse.  Several  hotels  and  stores  are  located 
here.  The  United  States  Government  has  a  wireless  station, 
also  land  line  station,  at  the  post,  which  consists  of  one  and 
sometimes  two  companies  of  soldiers.  The  Knights  of  Colum- 
bus have  one  of  their  buildings  here,  where  the  soldiers  are 
entertained  gratis  and  where  many  of  the  long  winter  evenings 
are  spent  enjoying  moving  pictures  and  the  like. 

From  here  the  winter  mail  trail  leads  to  the  Koyukuk  coun- 
try. Also  up  the  Tanana  to  Hot  Springs  and  Fairbanks  and 
so  on  out  to  the  coast  by  way  of  Chitina  and  the  Copper  River 
Railroad  to  Cordova.  The  winter  trail  which  leads  down  the 
river  to  Kaltag  and  over  the  Kaltag  portage  to  St.  Michael 
and  Nome  starts  from  here. 

Hot  Springs,  population,  29  (1920  census).  Proceeding  up 
the  Tanana  River  en  route  to  Fairbanks,  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  that  river,  the  first  place  of  interest  is  Hot  Springs,  a 
distributing  point  for  the  placer  mines  in  this  section.  Great 
trading  is  done  here  by  the  natives  in  fur  of  as  high  a  grade 
as  any  in  the  North.  There  is  a  fine  farm  of  silver  and  black 
foxes.  The  starters  were  caught  in  this  locality  and  many  have 
been  transferred  to  Prince  Edward  Island  in  Canada  (where 
they  took  first  prizes)  and  in  the  United  States. 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON       157 


Baker  Hot  Springs.  Here  also  is  the  Baker  Hot  Springs  —  a 
quiet,  restful  place  where  one  will  enjoy  the  surroundings  and 
will  be  well  cared  for.  Some  of  the  finest  farms  in  the  North 
are  in  this  vicinity. 

Leaving  Hot  Springs  we  soon  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Kantishna 
River  which  drains  the  northern  slope  of  Mt.  McKinley  of 
which  latter  there  are  glimpses  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 
At  the  head  of  this  stream  is  the  Kantishna  mining  district 
where  gold  was  found  in  1905  and  which  has  been  a  steady 
producer  ever  since. 


Pomarine  Jaeger 


158      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Tolovana  River  drains  the  Tolovana  gold  district  where  several 
millions  have  been  taken  out  in  recent  years.  Supplies  are  here 
transferred  from  boats  coming  up  the  river  and  are  pushed 
up  the  Tolovana  in  gas  boats  and  scows.  A  mail  boat  runs 
weekly  from  Fairbanks  (in  summer)  to  the  Tolovana.  In 
winter  the  mail  is  handled  over  the  new  government  railroad 
to  Dunbars,  thence  by  stage  to  Livengood,  the  town  in  the 
camp. 

Nenana  is  next,  population,  634  (1920  census).  The  govern- 
ment railroad  first  touches  navigable  water  here,  after  coming 
from  the  open  port  of  Seward,  414  miles  south,  and  having 
passed  over  the  Alaska  Range,  the  highest  on  the  continent. 
Here  are  the  Alaska  engineering  buildings,  the  headquarters 
of  the  organization  that  has  been  doing  the  construction 
from  the  north  (the  railroad  having  been  built  from  both 
ends).  Nenana  itself  is  a  town  administered  by  the  Govern- 
ment. At  this  point  passengers,  express,  and  mail  are  trans- 
ferred to  the  Government  Railroad  at  North  Nenana  and  are 
taken  to  Fairbanks,  56  miles  over  that  section  of  completed  road. 

Fairbanks,  population,  1,155  (iQ2°  census),  the  head  of  navi- 
gation for  the  steamers  olying  to  Whitehorse  and  St.  Michael, 
is  a  town  that  in  many  respects  resembles  many  of  the  pros- 
perous towns  in  the  United  States.  Here  are  located  the  district 
court  and  all  the  administrative  offices  of  the  fourth  division 
of  Alaska,  an  up-to-date  school,  a  public  library,  hospital,  and 
churches;  the  First  National  Bank  (a  Federal  reserve  bank), 
and  attractive  shops ;  a  first-class  daily  paper,  publishing  the 
news  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  received  hourly  over  the 
United  States  Telegraph  and  the  Radio.  Fairbanks  was  first 
started  in  1901  by  a  trader  who  was  left  there  by  a  steamboat 
that  had  contracted  to  place  him  up  the  Tanana  River  as 
far  as  possible.  The  captain  by  mistake  took  what  appeared 
to  be  the  main  river,  10  miles  below  Fairbanks,  and  came  up 
the  slough  that  Fairbanks  is  now  located  on.  Believing  he 
could  go  no  further,  and  the  season  being  late,  he  put  the 
trader  off  here  against  his  will,  at  the  identical  spot  where  the 
Northern  Commercial  Company,  large  power  plant  and  stores 
are  located.  The  following  year  a  prospector  by  the  name 
of  Pedro  drifted  over  from  the  Circle  diggings  on  the  Yukon 
and  found  gold  on  the  creek  that  now  bears  his  name.  Thus 
Fairbanks  was  located  where  it  now  stands.  The  first  strike 
of  gold  placed  Fairbanks  and  the  surrounding  country  first  in 
the  production  of  gold  in  Alaska,  as  it  since  has  produced 
about  one-fourth  of  all  the  gold  mined  in  Alaska.  Fair- 
banks is  located  in  a  heavily  mineralized  country  and  a 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON       159 


favored  section  of  the  Tanana  Valley  where  climatical  con- 
ditions regarding  agriculture  are  the  best. 

The  United  States  Government's  extensive  experimental 
farm  here  has  met  with  the  greatest  success.  There  are  many 
fine  farms  which  produce  abundant  crops  of  all  the  hardier 
grains  and  a  flour  mill  to  grind  them.  All  kinds  of  vegetables 
do  well.  With  the  completion  of  the  railroad  this  will  be  a 
prosperous  farming  country. 

There  is  an  assay  office  in  Fairbanks  where  the  prospector 
can  have  assays  of  the  different  kinds  of  minerals  he  may  find. 
The  Government  has  also  built  a  splendid  mining  and  agri- 
culture college;  indeed  this  town  and  surroundings  have  much 
to  offer  to  those  who  will  stay  by  it  and  take  advantage  of 
what  the  district  offers. 

Trips  may  be  taken  by  motor  car  to  the  gold  bearing  creeks 
in  the  vicinity,  where  the  placer  mining  is  being  done.  The 
electric  plant  which  lights  the  city  also  serves  the  adjacent 
mining  camps.  Fairbanks  may  be  reached  all  the  year  from 
Cordova  by  Copper  River  &  Northwestern  R.  R.  to  Chitina, 
thence  to  Fairbanks: — also  from  Seward  by  U.  S.  Gov- 
ernment R.  R.  through  Nenana,  and  during  four  months  in 
summer,  steamboat  service  eastward  from  St.  Michael,  west- 
ward from  Dawson  and  Whitehorse  Yukon  Territory  is 
maintained.  The  first  through  boats  down  from  Whitehorse 
usually  arrive  about  the  middle  of  June  and  the  first  up  the 
river  from  St.  Michael  about  July  4th.  The  last  steamer 
leaves  Fairbanks  from  either  port  about  October  ist. 

Leaving  Tanana,  we  sail  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  down 
the  river  to  Ruby,  where  gold  was  struck  in  1911,  on  the 


ICQ    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

tributaries  of  the  Nowitna  River.  Here  a  winter  mail  trail 
leaves  the  winter  mail  trail  to  Nome  for  Opher  and  Iditarod. 
At  Opher  this  trail  connects  with  the  winter  trail  to  McGrath 
and  to  Wasilla  on  the  Government  Railroad,  having  passed 
through  the  Alaska  Range  and  Rainy  Pass. 

We  soon  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuk  River.  Steamers 
of  light  draft  take  supplies  to  the  far  distant  placer  camp 
which  is  in  the  Arctic  Circle.  This  has  been  known  as  the 
Koyukuk  country  and  has  been  a  good  producer.  In  fact,  it 
has  always  been  a  self-sustaining  camp,  no  money  from  the 
outside  being  needed  in  its  development,  taking  at  all  times 
enough  gold  dust  out  to  run  itself.  Very  little  if  any  outside 
money  or  "Chechacko  Money"  as  silver,  gold  or  "paper  is 
called,  being  used  in  the  camp.  Gold  dust  is  the  common 
medium  of  exchange. 

Ruby,  population,  128  (1920  census),  is  located  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Yukon  River  opposite  the  Melozi  River.  It  is 
the  distributing  center  for  the  Ruby  mining  district,  situated 
about  20  miles  to  the  south,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
wagon  road. 

Nulato,  population,  258  (1920  census),  a  few  miles  below, 
contains  stores  and  a  mission.  For  several  miles  down  the 
river  coal  can  be  observed  along  the  banks  and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  in  the  future  this  section  of  country  will  be  a  good 
producer  of  coal. 

Kaltag.  Forty-eight  miles  below  Nulato  we  pass  Kaltag 
where  the  winter  mail  trail  makes  a  cut  off  en  route  to  Nome 
going  over  the  Kaltag  Portage  and  saving  hundreds  of  miles. 

Anvik.  The  next  place  we  pass  is  Anvik,  population,  140 
(1920  census),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Anvik  River,  where  there 
is  a  store  and  a  small  mission. 

Holy  Cross,  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Innoko  River, 
maintains  the  largest  and  best  mission  in  the  north,  and  from 
this  place  shallow  draft  steamers  take  supplies  and  passengers 
up  the  Innoko  River  to  Opher  and  the  Iditarod  camps. 

Iditarod,  population,  50  (1920  census),  is  located  on  the 
Iditarod  River,  a  branch  of  the  Innoko,  about  300  miles  above 
the  junction  of  the  latter  stream  with  the  Yukon.  During  high 
water  river  steamers  can  reach  the  city,  but  at  other  seasons 
freight  is  brought  in  by  smaller  boats  and  gasoline  launches. 
It  is  a  distributing  point  for  the  Iditarod  placer  region. 

Flat,  population,  158  (1920  census),  the  center  of  placer 
operations  of  the  Iditarod  region,  is  situated  about  seven  miles 
from  Iditarod,  and  is  connected  with  the  latter  place  by  wagon 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    iei 

road  and  a  wooden  rail  tramway,  over  which  freight  is  trans- 
ported. 

Russian  Mission,  which  is  the  next  stop,  contains  a  church 
and  school  of  the  Russian  faith,  also  a  store. 

Marshall,  a  short  distance  farther  down  the  river,  struck  in 
1911,  has  produced  a  little  gold  and  has  a  fair  outlook  for  the 
future. 

Andreaf sky,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Andreaf sky  River  is  a  great 
trading  place  for  the  Eskimos.  It  was  used  as  a  "boneyard" 
for  the  many  river  steamers  of  the  early  days,  and  the  traveler 
will  see  abandoned  ships  and  machinery  of  all  kinds. 

As  the  steamer  passes  out  of  the  Yukon's  northern  mouth, 
we  pass  a  radio  station  called  Kotlik.  In  this  Yukon  delta 
are  large  fishing  concerns  that  put  up  salmon  every  year  as  the 
fish  come  in  to  climb  the  rivers  to  spawn. 

The  Yukon,  draining  as  it  does  a  country  which  contains  so 
many  small  glaciers  at  the  head  of  the  rivers  that  feed  it,  is 
continually  washing  down  and  casting  out  into  the  Bering  Sea 
the  silts  and  gravels  from  the  uplands,  making  it  shallow  for 
miles  out  from  the  mouth.  Across  this  shallow  water  the  river 
steamer  goes  to  St.  Michael  where  connections  are  made  with 
the  ocean  boats  plying  from  the  states. 

The  Island  of  St.  Michael  is  a  military  reservation,  the  com- 
panies operating  stores  and  having  docks  are  there  by  special 
permission  of  the  Government.  Here  the  traveler  will  see  the 
little  block  house  or  fort  of  the  Russians  who  located  in  1830. 
He  will  also  see  the  little  brass  cannon  that  was  left  there  by 
them. 

TRANSPORTATION 

Personal  comfort  requirements  on  ships  to  Alaska  compare 
favorably  with  the  best  coast  line  steamers  elsewhere. 

Those  who  contemplate  a  summer  tour  should  make  note 
of  the  following: 

To  see  the  sun  shining  at  midnight,  the  departure  from  Van- 
couver or  Seattle  should  be  made  about  June  i5th. 

Do  not  burden  yourself  with  heavy  clothing.  By  way  of 
comparison  it  might  be  noted  that  the  summer  temperature 
of  Skagway,  Atlin,  Dawson,  and  Fairbanks  runs  on  an  average 
from  about  60  to  75  degrees,  while  that  of  cities  like  Chicago, 
New  York,  and  St.  Louis  runs  from  70  to  95  degrees. 

It  is  well  to  be  provided  with  a  medium  weight  overcoat 
or  wrap,  walking  shoes  or  rubbers  for  any  intended  tramps 
ashore,  and  medium  weight  underwear,  such  as  usually  worn 
in  the  late  spring.  Cold  weather  in  Alaska  or  Yukon  is  never 
encountered  during  the  summer.  You  merely  escape  the 

12 


162    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


Copyright  by  E.  H.  Harriman 

Chief's  House,  Deserted  Indian  Village,  Cape  Fox,  Alaska 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    163 

sultry  heat  of  more  southern  points.  The  average  rainfall  at 
Dawson  for  the  months  of  June,  July,  August,  and  September, 
covering  a  period  of  14  years,  is  less  than  i^  inches  per  month. 
This  is  about  half  or  less  than  the  rainfall  during  the  same 
months  in  Chicago,  New  York,  Boston,  etc.  The  rainfall  at 
Fairbanks  and  Atlin  is  approximately  the  same  as  at  Dawson. 

By  all  means  take  a  camera  with  you.  There  are  many 
interesting  things  worth  "snapping"  besides  the  scenery, 
and  with  a  little  care  in  exposure  and  focusing  the  result  will 
be  a  most  interesting  pictorial  record  of  your  trip. 

All  transportation  to  and  from  Alaska  is  by  water. 

Steamships  between  Seattle,  Wash.,  and  all  southeastern 
and  southwestern  Alaska  points,  and  between  Vancouver, 
Victoria,  and  Prince  Rupert  and  Southeastern  Alaska  points 
are  operated  at  all  times  of  the  year.  North  of  the  Alaska  Pen- 
insula and  on  the  rivers  of  interior  Alaska  navigation  is  closed 
in  winter. 

The  following  steamship  companies  operate  between  Seattle, 
Wash.,  and  Alaska  ports: 

Alaska  Steamship  Co.  to  Ketchikan,  Wrangell,  Petersburg, 
Thane,  Treadwell,  Douglas,  Juneau,  Haines,  Skagway,  Cordova, 
Valdez,  Seward,  Anchorage,  St.  Michael,  Nome.  This  com- 
pany also  operates  steamers  from  Seward  to  the  following  ports 
on  the  Alaska  Peninsula:  Port  Graham,  Seldovia,  Homer, 
Kodink,  Uyak,  Karluk,  Cold  Bay,  Chignik,  Unga,  Sand  Point. 
Coal  Harbor,  Belkofsky,  Scotch  Cap,  Cape  Sarichef,  Dutch 
Harbor,  Unalaska,  and  Nushagok. 

Border  Line  Transportation  Co.  to  Ketchikan,  Wrangell, 
Petersburg,  Treadwell,  Douglas,  Juneau,  Thane,  Hoonah, 
Sitka,  and  ports  on  the  west  coast  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island. 

Pacific  Steamship  Co.  to  Ketchikan,  Wrangell,  Petersburg, 
Thane,  Treadwell,  Douglas,  Juneau,  Haines,  Skagway,  Yakutat, 
Katalla,  Cordova,  Valdez,  Seward,  Seldovia,  Port  Graham, 
Anchorage,  and  Kodiak  and  during  tourist  seasons  to  Sitka. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Ry.  (British  Columbia  Coast  Service) 
operates  two  steamers  between  Vancouver  and  Skagway  to 
Alert  Bay,  B.  C..  Prince  Rupert,  B.  C.,  Ketchikan,  Wrangell, 
Juneau  and  Skagway.  During  the  tourist  season  from  about 
June  loth  to  the  end  of  August  these  steamers,  Princess  Alice 
and  Princess  Louise,  call  at  Taku  Glacier  en  route  to  Skagway. 
At  Prince  Rupert  connection  is  made  with  the  trains  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Pacific  R.  R. 

Ships  touching  at  Skagway  connect  at  that  port  with  the 
White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route,  by  rail  to  White  Pass,  B.  C., 
20  miles;  Log  Cabin,  B.  C.,  32  miles;  Bennett,  B.  C.,  41  miles; 
Carcross,  Y.  T.,  67  miles;  Whitehorse,  Y.  T.,  no  miles. 


164     RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Connection  is  made  at  McRae,  Y.  T.,  with  branch  line  trains 
for  Carr  Glyn,  Y.  T.,  5  miles,  and  Pueblo,  Y.  T.,  n  miles. 

The  White  Pass  &  Yukon  Route  during  the  season  of  navi- 
gation operates  a  fleet  of  river  steamers  carrying  freight  and 
passengers  between  Car  cross,  Y.  T.,  and  Atlin,  B.  C.,  and 
between  Whitehorse  and  Dawson,  Y.  T.,  460  miles. 

Parlor  observation  cars  are  run  on  all  regular  trains,  and  dur- 
ing the  summer  season  observation  cars  are  added. 

The  American- Yukon  Navigation  Co.  operates  steamers 
on  the  Yukon  River,  on  an  irregular  schedule,  between  Dawson 
and  St.  Michael.  Service  begins  about  June  5th  and  ends 
about  October  ist. 

Ships  calling  at  Cordova  connect  there  with  the  Copper 
River  &  Northwestern  Ry.  for  Eyak,  8  miles,  Miles  Glacier, 
49  miles,  Chitina,  131  miles,  Strelna,  146  miles,  Shushana 
Junction,  191  miles,  and  Kennecott,  197  miles. 

Ships  making  Seward  or  Anchorage  connect  with  the  U.  S. 
Government  Alaska  R  R.  for  Fairbanks,  508  miles.  Stations 
en  route  are  Roosevelt,  23  miles,  Hunter,  40  miles,  Kern, 
71  miles,  Anchorage,  114  miles,  Matanuska,  151  miles,  Houston, 
175  miles,  Talkeetna,  227  miles,  Deadhorse,  249  miles,  Gold 
Creek,  264  miles,  Chulitna,  275  miles.  Branch  from  Matanuska 
to  Eska,  21  miles,  and  Chickaloon,  38  miles. 

Steamers  touching  at  Nome  and  St.  Michael  connect  with 
the  American-Yukon  Navigation  Company  steamboats,  oper- 
ating from  St.  Michael  up  the  Yukon  River  and  its  tributaries 
as  far  as  Dawson,  affording  passenger,  mail,  express  and  freight 
service  between  Dawson  and  St.  Michael  and  intermediate 
points  as  well  as  all  points  reached  by  steamers  on  the  Koyukuk, 
Iditarod,  and  Innoko  rivers  in  Alaska.  The  last  sailing  from 
Seattle  for  up  the  river  is  not  later  than  August  icth.  The 
Yukon  closes  in  the  early  fall. 

BAGGAGE 

The  usual  free  allowance  of  150  pounds  of  baggage  on  whole 
tickets  and  7  5  pounds  on  half  tickets  is  accorded  by  the  steam- 
ships plying  to  and  from  Alaska. 

Passengers  entering  Alaska  from  Canada  are  required  to 
pass  the  customary  United  States  Immigration  inspection. 

A  similar  requirement  is  made  by  the  Canadian  Government 
when  passing  from  Alaska  into  Canada. 

In  either  direction,  the  immigration  authorities  of  both 
countries  are  very  courteous,  and  do  their  work  with  a  mini- 
mum of  annoyance  or  inconvenience  to  tourists. 

Passengers  holding  through  tickets  via  Canadian  Pacific 
R.  R.  and  making  Alaska  side  trip  will  be  granted  free  storage 


RAND  M9NALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON      165 

of  baggage  at  steamship  companies'  wharves,  at  point  of  em- 
barkation for  not  more  than  30  days,  after  which  regular  charges 
will  accrue. 

Bonded  baggage  requirements  vary,  depending  on  the  rail 
and  ship  lines  traveled  by  the  passenger. 

Baggage  checked  from  Vancouver  or  Victoria  to  Skagway 
will  be  inspected  by  United  States  Customs  officers  at  Ketchi- 
kan  or  may  be  forwarded  in  bond. 

Southbound,  Canadian  Customs  baggage  inspection  is  made 
at  Prince  Rupert,  and  United  States  Customs  inspection  at 
Vancouver  (if  passenger  is  traveling  east  via  Canadian  Pacific) 
or  at  Seattle. 

Baggage  can  be  checked  through  from  Puget  Sound  and 
British  Columbia  ports  to  Atlin  or  Dawson  via  White  Pass  & 
Yukon  Route,  without  inspection  of  customs  officers  at  Skag- 
way, provided  passengers  hold  through  tickets;  and  after  it  is 
once  checked  at  starting  point,  passengers  are  not  annoyed  by 
inspection  or  re-checking  until  arrival  at  destination,  where 
all  baggage  from  the  United  States  is  subject  to  inspection. 

Baggage  originating  at  British  Columbia  points  may  be 
sealed  and  sent  through  Alaska  in  bond  without  inspection. 
The  same  privilege  is  accorded  in  the  opposite  direction. 

LOCAL  ALASKA  STEAMER  AND  MOTOR  BOAT 
SERVICE 

Ketchikan  to  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  Hyder,  and  other  local 
points. 

Wrangell  to  Prince  of  Wales  Island  and  other  near-by 
localities. 

Petersburg  to  the  south  end  of  Baranof  Island. 

Juneau,  westerly  to  Sitka,  and  northerly  to  Skagway. 

Valdez  and  Cordova  to  points  on  Prince  William  Sound. 

The  principal  river  service  on  the  Yukon,  Koyukuk,  Innoko, 
and  Iditarod  rivers  is  handled  by  the  White  Pass  &  Yukon 
Route  and  its  connections. 

Fairbanks  has  a  local  fleet  of  about  five  steamers  operating 
to  near-by  points  on  the  Tanana  River. 

On  the  Iditarod  River  there  is  a  local  service  of  about  six 
boats  between  Dishna  and  Iditarod. 

On  the  Innoko  River  there  is  a  local  service  of  about  three 
boats  operating  in  the  upper  and  shallow  portions  of  the  river. 

The  Kuskokwim  River  service  is  furnished  by  two  steamers 
operated  by  the  Alaska  Rivers  Navigation  Company  and  the 
Kuskokwim  Commercial  Company. 

A  launch  is  scheduled  to  make  monthly  trips  between  Seward 
and  Alaska  Peninsula  points  via  Kodiak. 


166      RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

Tramp  transportation  is  furnished  by  small  steamers  and 
power  boats  to  practically  all  new  fields  on  tributaries  of  the 
Yukon.  Fairbanks,  Tanana,  Ruby,  and  Iditarod  are  the 
principal  headquarters.  Two  steamers  are  operated  on  the 
Stikine  River  between  Wrangell,  Alaska,  and  Telegraph 
Creek,  B.  C.  Power  launches  operate  on  irregular  schedules 
between  Wrangell  and  various  points  on  the  river. 

The  Knik-Susitna  Transportation  Co.  has  been  operating 
in  past  years  at  the  head  of  Cook  Inlet,  Knik,  Turnagain  Arm 
and  on  the  Susitna  River,  which  is  a  tributary  of  Cook  Inlet. 


"The  men  of  my  age  who  are  in 
this  great  audience  will  not  be  old 
before  they  see  one  of  the  greatest 
and  most  populous  states  of  the 
entire  Union  in  Alaska. 

"I  predict  that  Alaska  within  the 
next  century  will  support  as  large 
a  population  as  does  the  entire 
Scandinavian  peninsula. 

UI  predict  that  you  will  see  Alaska 
with  her  enormous  resources  of 
minerals,  her  fisheries  and  her 
possibilities  that  almost  exceed 
belief,  produce  as  hardy  and  vigor- 
ous a  race  as  any  part  of  Amer- 
ica." 

—THEODORE   ROOSEVELT 


RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON      171 

Matanuska  Branch 

Miles  Miles 

Matanuska  Junction o       Sutton  Station 19 

Palmer  Station 6       Granite  Station 22 

Moose  Station 13       Castle  Station 30 

Junction  Eska  Spur. 18       Chickaloon 37 

Eska  Branch 

Miles                                                           Miles 
Junction  Matanuska  Branch  ...     o      Eska 3 

RIVER  ROUTES 

YUKON  RIVER— Whitehorse  to  St.  Michael 

Miles  Miles 

Whitehorse o  Ruby ,322 

Dawson 460  Louden ,378 

Fortymile   512  Koyukuk ,430 

Eagle 561  NULATO .' ,440 

Nation 614  Kaltag ,495 

Circle 751  Anvik ,655 

Fort  Yukon 836  HOLY  CROSS ,702 

Beaver 888  Russian  Mission ,767 

Fort  Hamlin 983  Marshall ,820 

Rampart 1,079  Andreafsky ,879 

TANANA 1,159  Hamilton ,933 

Birches 1,214  Kotlik ,993 

Kokrines 1,298  St.  Michael 2,060 

TANANA  RIVER— Tanana  to  Fairbanks 

Miles  Miles 

Tanana o       Nenana 198 

Hot  vSprings 70       Chena 263 

Tolovanaf .  .  133       Fairbanks 275 

KOYUKUK  RIVER— Kaltag  to  Wiseman 

Miles  Miles 

Kaltag o      Alatna 470 

Koyukuk 15       Bettles 540 

Dagetkaket 175       Cold  Foot 600 

Hog  River 315       Wiseman 620 

Hughes 375 

INNOKO   RIVER 
Holy  Cross,  Yukon  River  to  Diskaket,    Innoko  River 370 

INNOKO  AND  IDITAROD  RIVERS— Holy  Cross,  Yukon  River, 
to  Iditarod 

Miles  Miles 

Holy  Cross o      Dikeman 320 

Mouth  Iditarod  River 160       Iditarod 395 


172   RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 

KUSKOKWIM  RIVER— Bethel  to  McGrath   v 

Miles  Miles 

Bethel o      Georgetown 260 

Tuluksak 60      Sleitmutte 295 

Yukon  Portage 100      Andranoff 385 

Kolmakof 190       McGrath 500 


DAWSON  YUKON  TERRITORY  TO 

Miles  Miles 

Arlington  Roadhouse 10.25  Gold     Run,     via     Hunker, 

Barker  Creek 90 .  oo  Summit  and  Ridge 3&  •  93 

Blackhills,  Discovery. 55 .00  Gold  Run,  No.  27,  via  Ridge 

Bear  Creek 7 . 33  and  Gold  Run 44 .  oo 

Bonanza. 13 .00  Gold     Run,     via     Hunker, 

Bedrock  Creek  (Sixtymile) .  .   65.00          Summit,  Green  Gulch.  ...    54.25 

Boucher 43  oo  Gordon's  Landing 172 .00 

Caribou  (Dominion) 31 .60  Henderson    Creek,    via    Bo- 

Carmack's  Forks 18.20  nanza,  Calder,  etc 53-5° 

Clear  Creek  (Duncan  Creek  Hunker  Creek,  Gold  Bottom  18.30 

District) Hunker  Creek,  Discovery.  .  .   21 . 50 

Dominion  Creek,  Dome,  via  Hunker  Creek,  Head  of.  ...   26.35 

Ridge 25.40  Indian  River  (via  Calder) .  .   29.25 

Upper  Discovery.  .  .    28  . 50  Last  Chance 12 . 75 

Caribou 31 . 60  Miller  Creek  (Sixtymile)   ...   61 .50 

Lower  Discovery ...   33 . 40  Montana  Creek 36 . 75 

7  below  Lower 34. 10  McQuesten 105 .00 

92  below  Lower.  ...   40.60  Quartz     Creek,      12     below 

Granville 54  •  oo          A.  Mack's 28.10 

Duncan  Creek 1 84 .  oo  Steel  Creek 36.75 

Eldorado,  Head  of I9-5O  Sulphur,  36  above  Discovery  30.40 

Glacier  Creek,  Discovery.  .  .   58.25  Sulphur,  2  below  Discovery  34.06 

Gold  Bottom 18 . 30  Scroggie  Creek 101 .00 

Gold    Run,    Head    of     (via  Victoria  Gulch 16.50 

Ridge  Wagon  Rd.) 35-75  Williams,  Bonanza  and  Ridge  31 . 66 


WHITE  RIVER  DISTRICT 
Kluane  Route 

(Summer  Route)  Miles 

From  Whitehorse  to  Kluane  (near  upper  end  Lake  Kluane)  by  Yukon 
Government  wagon  road 1 50 

From  Kluane  to  Jacquot's  roadhouse  (near  lower  end  Lake  Kluane) 
by  trail 47 

From  Jacquot's  roadhouse  to  Canyon  City  on  White  River,  by  trail .  .   85 
From  Canyon  City  to  Pan  Creek,  by  trail 17 

From   Canyon  City  to  crossing  of  Beaver  Creek,   by  International 
Boundary 15 

From  Pan  Creek  to  mouth  of  Beaver  Creek,  by  trail 42 


RAND    MCNALLY    GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON     167 


DISTANCES  IN  GEOGRAPHICAL  MILES 

From  Seattle  via  Inside  Passage 


Miles 

Ketchikan 742 

Wrangell 844 

Petersburg <  .     890 


Treadwell  
Douglas 

[,018 

.OIQ 

Juneau 

,O2O 

Haines  
Skagway 

,122 

,n8 

Cordova                                    .  . 

,=581 

Ellamar  
Valdez.. 

[,646 
,674 

Miles 

Latouche i»776 

Seward 1*844 

Anchorage 2,158 

Seldovia 2,01 1 

Homer „ 2,026 

Kodiak 2,183 

Chignik 2,504 

Unga 2,648 

Sand  Point 2,664 

Belkofsky 2,750 

Unalaska 2,990 

Nushagak 3, 500 

DISTANCES  IN  GEOGRAPHICAL  MILES 

From  Seattle  Direct — Outside  Passage 
Miles 

Cordova 1,404 

Valdez i,435 

Seward •.  ...  1,418 

Anchorage .  .  . 1,656 

Unalaska i  ,962 

Nushagak 2,385 

RAILROAD    ROUTES 

Skagway    to    Whitehorse— White    Pass    &    Yukon    R.    R. 

Miles  Miles 

Skagway o       Bennett 40 . 6 

White  Pass 20.4       Carcross 67 . 2 


Miles 
Bethel  (Kuskokwim  River) . .  .2,465 

Nome 2,621 

St.  Michael 2,623 

St.  Michael  via  Nome 2,741 

Kewalik 3,087 


Log  Cabin 32 . 4      Whitehorse 110.4 


Dogs  with  Packsaddles 


168    RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON 


170     RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 


Cordova  to  Kennecott — Copper  River  £  Northwestern  Ry. 


Miles 

Cordova o 

Eyak  River 5.9 

Alaganik 22.2 

Flag  Point 26.2 

Katalla  Junction 38.5 

Miles  Glacier 48 . 6 

Abercrombie 54-6 

Baird  River 66 . 9 

Bremner 78 . 1 


Miles 


Cleave  Creek 92 . 

Tiekel..  .  .  101 , 


Uranatina 113 

Wood  Canyon I24-4 

CHITINA 130.7 

Kotsina 137 .  o 

Strelna 146 .  o 

Chokosna 157 .  o 

Moose  Lake 167.0 

Long  Lake 1 77 .  o 

McCarthy 191  .o 

Kennecott 195 . 6 


U.  S.  GOVERNMENT  ALASKA  RAILROAD 

Seward  to  Fairbanks 


Miles 

Seward o 

Woodrow  Station 7 

Summit  Station 12 

Primrose  Station 1 8 

Roosevelt  Station 23 

Trail  Station 25 

Moose  Pass  vStation 29 

Johnson  Station 34 

Hunter  Station 40 

Grandview  Station 45 

Twentymile  River   65 

Kern  Creek 71 

Girdwood  Station 75 

Bird  Point  Siding .   82 

Indian  Station 89 

Rainbow  Station 94 

Potter  Creek  Station 101 

Campbell  Station 109 

Anchorage  Station 114 

Whitney  Station 119 

Eagle  River  Station 127 

Birch  wood  Station 136 

Eklutna  Station 142 

Knik  River 146 

Matanuska  River 148 

Matanuska  Station 151 

Wasilla  Station 160 

Houston  Station 175 

Nancy  Station 181 

Willow  Station 186 

Kashwitna  Station 194 

Caswell  Station .  .  202 


Miles 

Montana  Station 209 

Sunshine  Station 215 

Fishlake  Station 221 

Talkeetna 227 

Nanchase  Station 231 

Cache  Creek 238 

Lane  Creek 242 

Dead  Horse  Hill 249 

Susitna  River 264 

Chulitna  Pass 276 

Hurricane  Gulch 284 

Honolulu  Creek 288 

E.  Fork  Chulitna  River 292 

vSummit  Br'd.  Pass 310 

Cantwell  River 316 

Windy  Creek 323 

Bain  Creek • 327 

Clear  Creek 330 

Riley  Creek 347 

Dry  Creek 361 

Nenana  River 371 

Nenana 411 

Little  Goldstream 420 

Goldstream 429 

Standard  Creek 437 

Cache  Creek 445 

Spinach  Creek 451 

Moose  Creek 457 

Happy  Station 460 

Ester  Siding 463 

Chena  Junction 464 

Fairbanks 468 


Fairbanks 

Ester  Siding 5 

Happy  Station 7 

McNears  Station 1 1 

Fox  Station 18 

Gilmore  Station 20 


Fairbanks  to  Chatanika 
Miles 
o 


Miles 

Scrafford  Station 26 

Ridgetop  Station 29 

Olnes  Station 34 

Little  Eldorado  Station 37 

Chatanika 39 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON    173 


Miles 

Stewart  City 68 

Scroggie,  Mazie  May  & 

Barker 88 

Clear  Creek 

Nelson's  Point  &  McQuesten  .  .  158 

Mayo 230 

Fraser  Falls 253 


*Head  of  rfavigation  on  the  Pelly, 


Miles 

Mouth  of  White  River 79 . 5 

Mouth  of  Donjek 159-5 

130  miles  up  White  River  .  .209.5 
Mouth  of  Kluane  River .  .  .  .224.5 
Kluane  Lake,  via  Donjek, 

etc 291 .5 

Selkirk 180 

MacMillan 254 

Glenlyon 345 

Ross  River 427 

Hoole  Canyon** 450 


Distances  from  Dawson  along  the  Whitehorse-Dawson  Winter  Trail. 


,  Miles 

Quartz  (Tystad's) 28. 10 

Indian  River 29 . 25 

Eureka  Forks 43  .  oo 

Wounded  Moose 52  .  oo 

Stewart  Crossing 77 .00 

Rosebud 87  .  oo 

Stevens 99 .  oo 

Rosebud,  Right  Fork .109.00 

Hume's. 114.00 

Selkirk  (Cut-off) 134 .  oo 

Pelly  Crossing 1 33  -  oo 

Minto 1 57 .  oo 

Lewes  Crossing  (Mackay's) .  1 78 .  oo 


Miles 

Carmack's 199 .  oo 

Nordenskold  (ist  crossing) .  .199.05 

Montague 223 .  oo 

Chico  Junction 228 .  oo 

McArthur  Cut-off 242  . 60 

Nordenskold  (26.  crossing).  .243.00 

Braeburn 244.60 

Nordenskold  (3d  crossing) .  .251 .60 
Kynock  (Nordenskold  Post)266.oo 
Nordenskold  (4th  crossing) .  .275 . 75 

Little  River 288 . 50 

Tahkini  River  Crossing 307 .  oo 

Whitehorse 329 .  oo 


PRINCIPAL  SUMMER  AND  WINTER  ROADS 

AND  TRAILS  IN  ALASKA 

SUMMER   ROADS 

THROUGH   ROUTES 


Haines-International 

Boundary 48  miles 

Mile    4 — Hindustuki 
22 — Klukwan 
25— Wells 
28— Fish  Point 
39 — Porcupine 
48 — Pleasant  Camp 

Wasill a- Willow  Creek 26  miles 

Mile  ii — Palmer  Fork 
17 — Fishhook  Inn 
1 8 — Archangel  Fork 
21— Kelly  Fork 
26 — Willow  Creek  Pass 

Circle-Miller  House 40  miles 

Roosevelt-Kantishna 34  miles 

Ruby-Long 30  miles 

Ophir-Takotna 24  miles 


Nome-Council 82  miles 

Mile    4— Fort  Davis 
12 — Cape  Nome 
22 — Safety  Ferry 
32 — Solomon 
47— East  Fork 
72 — Fox  River 
82 — Council 
Nome-Shelton  (Dog  Train)  87  miles 

Valdez-Fairbanks 370  miles 

Mile    10 — Comfort 
19 — Wortmans 
27 — Thompson  Pass 
33 — Ptarmigan  Drop 
42 — Beaver  Dam 
52— Tiekhell 
63 — Ernestine 
8 1 — Tonsina 
92— WILLOW  CREEK 


174     RAND   MCNALLY   GUIDE   TO   ALASKA   AND   YUKON 

1 02 — Copper  Center  292 — Shaw  Creek 

1 1 1 — Taslina  298 — Tenderfoot 

128 — Gulkana  301 — Richardson 

140 — Poplar  Grove  313 — Birch  Lake 

150— Sourdough  314— DONNELY 

162 — Hogan  321 — Overland 

1 66 — Our  Home  330 — Munson 

175 — Meiers  342 — Pile  Driver 

191 — Paxson  352 — 1 8-Mile 

208 — Yost  361 — 9-Mule 

2 1 1— McCallum  370— FAIRBANKS 

220 — Millers  Chitina  Cut-off 39  miles 

233 — Rapids  Mile    o — Willow  Creek 

245— DONNELY  12— Kenny  Lake 

262 — Beale's  Cache  24 — Lower  Tonsina 

280— McCarty  38— Chitina 

WINTER   TRAILS 

Chisana-Nizina 78  miles  Fort  Gibbon-Wiseman  . .  .250  miles 

Gulkana-Eagle 357  miles  Mile  100 — Arctic  City 

Mile      o — Gulkana  120 — Alatna 

4 — Gakona  1 60 — B  ettles 

40 — Chistochena  235 — Coldfoot 

90 — Slana  River  250 — Wiseman 

131 — Nicoleys  Cabin  Fort  Gibbon-Kaltag .257  miles 

156 — Clearwater  Cabin  Mile    34 — Kallend 

1 80 — Tanana  Crossing  59 — Nine-Mile  Point.  . 

1 88 — Lake  Mansfield  99 — Ruby  Hot  Springs 

214 — Lone  Cabin  123 — Ruby 

235 — Mitchells  168 — Louden 

250 — Ketchumstuk  2 1  o — Koyukuk 

282 — Chicken  222 — Nulato 

300 — Jack  Wade  257 — Kaltag 

312 — Steel  Creek  Ruby-Ophir 153  miles 

330 — Liberty  Cabin  Mile    30 — Long 

357 — Eagle  56 — Poorman 

McCarty-Tanana  Crossing .  95  miles  81 — Lone  Mountain 

Circle-Fort  Yukon. ......  125  miles  105 — Cripple 

Chatanika-Circle 120  miles  153 — Ophir 

Mile    60 — Eagle  Creek  Nancy-Kaltag 413  miles 

80 — Miller  House  Mile    25 — Susitna  Station 

100 — Central  House  44 — Lake  View 

1 20 — Circle  64 — Squentna  Crossing 

Chatanika-Chandalar .  .  .  .  195  miles  85 — Mountain  Climbers 

Mile  1 20 — Beaver  107 — Happy  River 

195 — Caro  136 — Pass  Creek 

Dunbar-Fort  Gibbon 130  miles  150 — Richardson 

Mile    32 — Minto  159 — Roan  River 

52 — Tolovana  178 — French  Joe 

80 — Hot  Springs  197 — Peluk 

1 06 — Fish  Lake  206 — Sullivan  Creek 

130 — Fort  Gibbon  218 — Solomon  River 

Nenana-Kantishna 121  miles  235 — Big  River 

Mile    50 — Knights  255 — McGrath 

104 — Glacier  273 — Takotna 

1 1 4 — Bartletts  2  95 — Ophir 

121 — Kantishna  345 — Dishkaket 


RAND  MCNALLY  GUIDE  TO  ALASKA  AND  YUKON   175 

413 — Kaltag  Topkok-Candle 154  miles 

Ophir-Iditarod 90  miles       Shelton-Candle 140  miles 

Takotna-Flat . 91  miles       Nome-Taylor 140  miles 

Mile  14 — Big  Creek  Nome-Teller 90  miles 

28 — Halfway  Candle-Kiana 65  miles 

50 — Moon  Creek  Isaacs-Snyders 85  miles 

74 — Ruby  Creek  Unalaklik-St.  Michael 65  mile 

88— Otter  s 
91— Flat 

Knltag-Nome 341  miles  St.  Michael-Quinhagak . .  .450  miles 

Mile    60— Old  Woman  Mile    60— Kotlik 

90 — Unalakleet  90 — Fort  Hamilton 

112 — Point  Dexter  145 — Andreafsky 

195 — Isaacs  167 — Marshall 

259 — Cheenik  207 — Bennetts 

280 — Bluff  225 — Russian  Mission 

295 — Topkok  Head  325 — Akiak 

309 — Solomon  350 — Bethel 

341 — Nome  450 — Quinhagak 


5) 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


;-..  ..;•:?  .:P  - 


•OTCB,  jut  29  B!^ 


\lA-50rn-ll, '62 
279slO)476B 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


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8  1 5*8 


R1 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


